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Practical 
Cotton Calculations 



A TREATISE RELATING TO 

COTTON YARN, CLOTH STRUCTURii], LOOM 

AND MISCELLANEOUS COTTON 

MILL CALCULATIONS 



BY 

ERNEST WHITWORTH 

Formerly Principal of the Desigtiing and Cloth Analysis 
Department, New Bedford Textile School 



^^ 



PUBLISHED BY 

FIBRE AND FABRIC 

BOSTON. MASS. 
1921 



5^f 



Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1921 

by 
THE WADE PUBLISHING CO. 
In the office of the Librarian of Congress 
Washington, D. C. 



%\ 



ni^ 



m -7 132! 
GLA614635 



r? 



i? PREFACE 

f/O 

There are several reasons why t!ie author of this 
book has deemed its publication advisable. 

One reason has been the apparent want of a book 
dealing only with practical calculations. This has been 
borne in mind in the compilation of this book. 

The principal object has been to put into a con- 
venient form for reference a text^book of practical 
cotton yarn, cloth and general mill calculations. 

Being the only book on the market, so far as the 
author is aware, dealing only with practical cotton 
calculations, it is submitted to all persons, from student 
to superintendent, who have occasion to deal with cotton 
mill calculations. 

Most of the rules and methods explained in the 
following pages are deducted from data gathered from 
practical experience and have never been printed before. 
The remainder, with the exception of the yarn numbering 
and cloth production tables, are common property, and 
may be found in almost every book on textile calcula- 
tions. These are principally length and w^eight calcula- 
tions, where take-up or contraction is not considered. 



ESTABLISHED 1830 



THE 

J. H. WILLIAMS 

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Millbury, Mass. 



SHUTTLES 

of Superior Quality 
and Finish 



Williams Standard Wire Heddles 

Twin Tempered Steel Heddles 

Iron and Wood End Heddle Frames 

Reeds, Cotton Harness, Bobbins, 
Spools, Etc. 



GLOSSARY OF TECHNICAL 
WORDS AND TERMS 



In the cotton manufacturing business, various words, 
forms and terms are used in different mills to indicate 
the same thing; for example, warp yarn is known by one 
or other of the terms yarn, thread, end, twist, etc. For 
this reason it has been deemed advisable to define the 
following list of the principal words and terms which 
will be used throughout this book: 

Yarn. The final product of combined fibres after 
leaving the spinning frame or mule. 

Ply Yarn. Two or more single yarns folded or 
twisted together. 

Cord Yarn. A heavy ply yarn. 

Cabled Yarn. Two or more ply yarns twisted 
together. 

Picks. Filling yarns. Each filling yarn laid at 
right angles between the warp yarns is termed a pick. 

Sley. The number of ends per inch in the cloth, 
provided each dent in the reed in which it was made 
contained an equal number of ends. 

Pick. The number of picks per inch in the cloth, 
provided stop or check pegs are not used. 

Averagfe Sley. The average number of ends per 
inch in the cloth when some dents contain more ends 
than others. 



6 Practical Cotton Calcclatioxs 

Average Pick. The average number of picks per 
inch in the cloth when check pegs are used. 

Count of Cloth. The sley and pick of a cloth. 

If a cloth is said to count 80X100, it means 80 sley 
and 100 pick. The first number given always indicates 
the sley and the second number the pick. 

A cloth is said to be square when the sley and pick 
are equal. 

Average Count of Cloth. The average sley and 
average pick of a cloth. 

WTien the average sley is diflPerent from the sley, or 
the average pick is different from the pick, the sley and 
pick, and average sley and average pick are usually writ- 
ten together, as follows: 

80 100 



X- 



110 1^4 

In some mills this means 80 sley X 100 pick for the 
ground of the cloth, and 110 sley X 1^4 pick average, 
whereas in other mills the top line indicates the average 
and the lower the count of the base or ground of the 
cloth. The relative positions, above or below the line, of 
the ground and average count, are matters of choice. 

Counts or Numbers of Yam. The relationship:) 

of length to weight in determining the size of yarn. 
Although the term "numbers" is used quite extensively 
the more universal term "counts" will be given preference 
in this book. 

Sley Reed, a reed that will produce a given sley 
in the cloth, provided two ends are drawn in each dent. 



Practical Cotton' Calculatioxs 7 

Warp Pattern. One repeat of the arrangement ot 
the different counts or different colors of the warp 
yarns. 

Filling Pattern. One repeat of the dift'erent 
counts or different colors of the filling yarns. 

The filling pattern may differ in extent from the pat- 
tern or effect shown on the face of the cloth. For 
example, the filling pattern in a Marseilles quilt may 
repeat on a small number of picks, as six or eight, 
whereas the pattern formed by the weave would occupy 
an entire quilt. 

Selvedges or Selvages. Extra ends on the sides 
of the warp, used to strengthen the edges of the cloth 
and aid in keeping it at a uniform width. 

Fabric or Cloth. Warp and filling yarns combined 
and interlaced together. 

Multiplier. The number to multiply by. 
Product. The result of a multiplication problem. 
Sum. The result of an addition problem. 
Dividend. The number to be divided. 
Divisor. The number to divide by. 
Quotient. The result of a division problem. 

Deduct. To subtract or take from. 

-)- Plus or more, addition sign. 

X Multiplied by sign. 

~r- Divided by sign. 

— Minus or less, subtraction sign. 

R. P. IVL. Revolutions per minute. 



8 Practical Cottox Calculations 

CONSTANTS OR CONSTANT NUMBERS 

In dealing with textile calculations there are several 
numbers that constantly occur, making: it feasible in 
some cases to dispense with one or other by cancelling 
one into the other. 

The following list contains the principal constants 
that will be used in this book: 

8.33; 

.2314; 
4.32 in. or 4 5-16 in.; 
764. 

The above constants, taken in rotation, are obtained 
as follows: 

.12 and 8.33. When iOOO (grains) and 840 (yards) 
occur in the same calculation, the 7000 may be dispensed 
with and .12 used instead of 840, or the 840 may be 
dispensed with and 8.33 used instead of 7000, 

because 840 -- 7000 r= .12, 
and 7000-^ 840 r= 8.33. 

In all calculations where a certain result may be 
obtained by multiplying by 8.33, the same result may be 
obtained by dividing by .12, or vice versa, because 

1 X 8.33 — 8.33 
1~ .12 = 8.33 

One yard of I's cotton yarn weighs 8 1-3 grains. 

As most of the yarn calculations deal principally 
with lengths and weights, the rules marked "^ will also 
apply to all other systems where higher counts indicate 
fmer yarns by substituting their respective lengths in- 
stead of 840. 



Practicat, Cottok Calcflatioks 9 

In calculations where the constant 8.33 appears, the 
rules will apply to other materials by substituting the 
following numibers: Worsted, 12.5; Woolen, run system, 
4.375; Linen and Woolen, cut system, 23.33. The num- 
bers given indicate the weight in grains of 1 yard of I's 
yarn in the respective materials. 

Instead of .12 the following numbers may be used: 
Worsted, .08 ; Woolen, run system, .228 + ; Linen and 
Woolen, cut system, .043 — . 

If any rule marked * does not contain the number 
840 or either of the constants .12 or 8.33, it will apply 
just as it stands for other materials as well as cotton. 

.2314 and 4.32. .2314 is used instead of 

7000 

because 7000 (grains) divided by 36 (inches per 

36 X 840 V6 / J V r 

yard) and 840 (yards) equals .2314. 

36 X 840 

4.32 is used instead of because 36 X 840 

7000 

divided by 7000 equals 4.32. 

764. This number is used in cloth calculations in- 
stead of 840 to allow for contraction in length and width, 
also for size or dressing on the warp yarns. All cloths 
contract in length and width to a greater or less degree, 
making it necessary to allow a certain amount of extra 
length of yarn for a given length, or width of cloth. 
The 764 allows (adds) 10%. 

10% of 764 =r 76, and 764 -f 76 f= 840. 

The constant 764 cannot be used for all classes of 
goods because the factors mentioned above will vary in 



10 Practical Cotton Calculations 

amount in different cloths. For very coarse goods, or 
cloths where sizing is added to give weight, a lower con- 
stant must be lised. 

The rules in which the constant 764 appears have 
been proved practical for cloths ranging in counts of 
yarn from 50's to TO's, and in counts of cloth from 60 to 
80, the warp and filling in any one cloth, and the sley 
and pick being nearly equal. 

For some constructions of cloth the constant 764 
will have to be substituted by another, higher or lov/er, 
according to whether the contraction is small or great. 

As perhaps all persons who have occasion to use the 
rules containing the constant 764 will have access to a 
weave room, it is advisable that they select a few styles 
that vary in structure, /. e., that vary in the sley as 
compared to the pick, or in warp as compared to filling, 
and note the difference in contraction, if any, and the 
cause of the same. From data obtained in this manner 
constants may be formulated that can be used in future 
when dealing with other cloths of approximately similar 
constructions. In this connection it will be well to bear 
in mind the various modifying factors explained under 
the headings Cloth Contraction and Reed Calculations. 

With the exceptions of rules 3, 58, 60, 61, Q2, 63, 80, 
81 and those indi'cated with a "•% the rules Tn this book 
may be used to aid in solving problems connected with 
other textile materials as well as cotton. 



YARN CALCULATIONS 



LENGTH AND WEIGHT STANDARDS 

The following standards are used when dealing with 
cotton calculations: 

Standard of Lengths for Cotton 

IV2 y*^*^' ^= The circumference of reel, or 1 wrap. 
1^0 yds. = 1 lea, or 80 wraps of the reel. 
840 yds. = 7 leas, or 1 hank. 

Standard of Weights for all Textile Materials 

437.5 grains = 1 ounce, avoirdupois. 
7000 grains := 16 ounces, or 1 pound. 

The counts of cotton yarns are based on the number 
of times that the standard of length, 840 yards, is con- 
tained in the length of yarn required to balance the 
standard of weight, 1 pound; thus, if 840 yards of yarn 
balance 1 lb., the counts are I's. 

If 4200 yards of yarn balance 1 lb., the counts are 
5's, because 4;?00 ^- 840 = 5 ; and so on, the higher the 
counts the more yards per pound, therefore the higher 
the counts the finer the yarn. See page 33 for tal)le ol 
counts and yards per pound of cotton yarns. 



12 Practical Cottox Calculatioxs 

TESTING YARNS FOR COUNTS, BY COIVL 
PARISON 

When analyzing small cloth samples, the average 
caimts of the yarn may readily be found from the cloth 
by Rule 49. 

In some cases the warp and filling may vary consid- 
erably in counts, making it necessary to find the counts 
of each separately. The counts of the warp yarn is 
generally found, the mills usually using but few different 
warp counts, and varying the weights of the cloths by 
changing the counts of the filling, if necessary, because 
it is more practical and convenient. Although short 
method No. 1. on the following page, may be applied for 
finding the counts of the yarn by weighing a few Inches, 
the most practical method is by comparing the warp 
yarn from the cloth with warp yarns of known counts. 



A B 



Vp>^ 






Fig. 1. 



B 



Fig:. 2. 



Fig. 1 illustrates the method of testing known with 
unknown counts; "A" represents the known and "B" the 
unkno^vn counts. To get the yarns as here shown place 
one or more yarns of the known at right angles to the 



Practical Cotton Calculations 13 

unknown counts, and twist them, making, as it were, 
one continuous yarn. If one yarn is coarser than the 
other, it can readily be seen, after twisting. Fig. 2 shows 
the j^arns in Fig. 1 after being twisted. It is advisable 
to wet the yarns, at the point where they are crossed, 
before twisting. 

The greater the number of strands of each count 
used, the less the liability to error. 

This method of testing is used practically, because 
a mill usually uses the nearest counts of warp yarn that 
they have on hand to the counts of the warp in the 
sample if they intend to duplicate it. 

Some persons do not care to trust the naked eye when 
comparing yarns, but prefer to use a magnifying glass 
of some kind, such as a pick glass, reading glass, or 
microscope. 



TESTING YARNS FOR COUNTS, BY 
WEIGHING SHORT LENGTHS 

1. The number of inches that weigh 1 gr. X .;2314 = 
Counts. 

X?. The number of strands of yarn, each 4 5-16 inches 
or i.32 inches long that weigh 1 grain = Counts. 

3. Number of yards weighed X 8 1-3 ^- weight in 
grains = Counts. 

4. Number of yards weighed -i- .1-2 X weight in 
grains = Counts. 

5. 1000 divided by weight in grains of 1 lea = 
Counts. 



14 Practical Cottox Calculatioks 

REELING YARNS 

To Find Counts of Yam from Any Number of 
Yards Reeled or Measured 

"^'Rule 1. MuUiphj the number of yards reeled by 
81-3, and divide by the weight in grains. 

ExA3rPLE, 10 yards of cotton yarn weigh 9 grains. 
What are the counts? 

10 yds. X 8.333 

= 41.66".> count?, Ans. 



3 grs. 

or by '"'Rule 2. Divide the number of yards reeled by 
.12 and the weight in grains. 

Example. Same as preceding. 

10 yds. 

— = 41.66's counts, Ans. 



.U X 3 grs. 
Rules 1 and 2 will apply when desiring 

To Find the Number of Hank of Roving. 



To Find Counts of Yarn from Bobbins or Cops 

Reel one lea each from 1, 2, 3, or 4 bobbins or cops, 
and use — 

Rule 3. Add o cijyhers to the number of leas reeled 
and divide by the tceight of the yarn in grains. 

Example. One lea is reeled from each of 4 bobbin* 
and found to weigh 50 grains. What are the counts? 

4000 -=- 50 grs. = 80's counts, Ans, 



Practical Cottox Calculatioxs 15 

In the above rule 1-7 of a bank is considered in con- 
nection with a corresponding portion of a pound, i. e., 
1-7 of 7000 grains r=r 1000 grains. If 1 lea is reeled from 
each of 4 bobbins, then 4 leas are reeled, or 4-7 of a 
hank. As 4-7 of a hank is weighed, the weight must be 
divided into 4000 grains, or 4-7 of a pound. 

The principal reasons why 1 lea is reeled from each 
of 4 bobbins in preference to 4 leas from 1 bobbin, or 1 
lea from 1 bobbin, are that the yarn may be reeled on an 
ordinary reel from 4 bobbins at a time, thus saving time, 
and a better average may be obtained, as there is greater 
liability for the yarn to vary in size on 4 bobbins than 
on 1 bobbin. 

On the four following pages Draper's cotton yarn 
numbering tables are reproduced by permission of the 
Draper Co., Hopedale, Mass. These tables are based on 
the weight in grains of 1 lea, or 120 yards. 

If more than one bobbin or cop is used, and more 
than one lea weighed, divide the weight in grains by the 
number of leas. 

Example. One lea is reeled from each of 4 bobbins, 
and found to weigh 50 grains. What are the counts? 

50 -f- 4 = 1;?.5 grains per lea, which shows on the table 
to be 80's yarn. 



16 



Practical Cotton Calculatioxs 



Table for numbering Cctton Yarn by the weight in grains of 
120 yards or I skein. 



m;d8 


Number 


120.vd6.' Number 


120yds 


N'umber 


120yil!< 


Natnber 


120yd9. Number f 


weigh 


of 


weigb 


of 


weigb 


of 


weigh 


of 


weigh 


of 


graine. 


Tare. 


grains. 


yart. 


(trains 


Yarn. 


pnuns 
28. 


Yarn 


grains. 


Yarn. 


1. 


1000. 


14. 


71.43 


«1 


47.62 


35.71 


35. 


28.57 


2. 


500. 


.1 


70.92 


.1 


47.39 


.1 


35.59 


.1 


28.49 


3, 


333.3 


2 


70.42 


2 


47.17 


.2 


35.46 


.2 


28.41 


4. 


260.0 


3 


69.93 


3 


46.95 


.3 


35.34 


.3 


28.33 


5. 


200.0 


4 


69.44 


4 


46.73 


.4 


35.21 


.4 28.26 


6.6 


181.8 


.5 


68.97 


5 


46.51 


.6 


35.09 


.5 28.17 


6. 


166.7 


.6 


68.49 


6 


46.30 


.6 


34.97 


.6 28.09 


6.5 


153.8 


.7 


68.03 


.7 


46.08 


.7 


34.84 


.7 


28.01 




142.9 


.8 


(-.^•1 


8 


45.87 


.8 


34.72 


.8 


27.93 


z'.b 


133.3 


.9 


67. n 


.9 


45.66 


.9 


34.60 


.9 


27.86 


8 


125.0 


15- 


66.07 


Zt. 


45.45 


29 


34.48 


36 


27.78 


1 


123.6 


.1 


66.23 


.1 


45.25 


.1 


34.36 


.1 27.70 1 


2 


122.0 


.2 


65.79 




45.05 


.2 


34.25 


.2 27.62 1 


3 


120.5 


3 


65.36 


]3 


44.84 


.3 


34.13 


.3 


27.55 


4 


119.0 


.4 


64.94 


.4 


44.64 


4 


34.01 


.4 


27.47 


5 


117.6 


.5 


64.52 


.5 


44.44 


.5 


33.!'0 


.5 


27.40 


S 


116.3 


6 


64.10 


.6 


44.25 


.6 


33.78 


.6 


27.32 


-1 


114.9 


7 


63.69 


7 


44.05 


7 


33.67 


7 


27.25 


(! 


113.6 


.8 


63.29 


8 


43.86 


.8 


33.50 


.8 


27.17 


9 


112.4 


.9 


62.89 


9 


43.67 


.9 


33.44 


.9 


27.10 


e. 


111.1 


16 


62.50 


23 


43.48 


30 


33.33 


37 


27.03 


1 


109.9 


1 


62.11 


.1 


43.29 


1 


33.22 


1 


26.95 


.2 


108.7 


2 


61.73 


.2 


43.10 


2 


33.11 


.2 


26.88 


3 


107.5 


3 


61.35 


3 


42.92 


.3 


33.00 


.3 


26.81 


4 


106.4 


4 


60.98 


.4 


42.74 


.4 


32.89 


.4 


26.74 


5 


105.3 


.6 


60.61 


5 


42.55 


.5 


32.79 


.6 


20.67 


€ 


104.2 


6 


60.24 


.6 


42.37 


.6 


32.68 


.6 


20.60 


7 


103.1 


7 


59.88 


7 


42.19 


.7 


32.57 


.7 


20.53 


.8 


102.0 


.8 


59.52 


.8 


42.02 


'.» 


32.47 


.8 


26.46 


9 


101.0 


.9 


59.17 


.9 


41.84 


.9 


32.36 





26.39 


10 


100.0 


17. 


58.82 


24.^ 


41.67 


31. 


32.26 


38. 


20.32 


.1 

.2 


99.01 


.1 


58.48 




41.49 


.1 


32.16 


.1 


26.25 


98.04 


2 


58.14 


2 


41.32 


,2 


32.05 


.2 


20.18 


.3 


97.09 


.3 


57.60 


3 


41.15 


.3 ! 31.95 


,3 


26.1 1 


4 


96.15 


4 


57.47 


4 


40.98 


,4 


31.85 


.4 


26.04 


5 


95.24 


5 


57.14 


5 


40.82 


.5 


31.75 


.5 


25.97 


6 


94.34 


6 


56.82 


.6 


40.65 


.6 


31.65 


.6 


25.91 


7 


93.46 


7 


56.50 


■ 7 


40.49 


7 


31.55 


.7 


25.84 


8 


92.59 


.8 


56.18 


.8 


40.32 


.8 


31.45 


.8 


25.77 


9 


91.74 


.9 


55.87 


9 


40.16 


.9 


31.35 


.9 


25.71 


11. 


90.91 


18. 


55.56 


26. 


40.00 


32. 


31.25 


39. 


25.64 


1 


90.09 


1 


55.25 


1 


39.84 


.1 


31.15 


.1 


25.58 


2 


89.29 


2 


54.95 


.2 


39.68 


,2 


31.06 


.2 


25.51 


.3 


88.50 


3 


54.64 


3 


39.53 


.3 


30.96 


.3 


25.45 


4 


87.72 


4 


54.35 


4 


39.37 


4 


30.SC 


4 


25.38 


f. 


86.96 


.5 


54.05 


5 


39.22 


.5 


30.77 


5 


25.32 


6 


86.21 


.6 


53.76 


.6 


39.06 


6 


30.67 


.6 


25.25 


•9 


85.47 


.7 


F3.48 


.7 


38.91 


7 


30.58 


.7 


25.19 


^8 


84.75 


.8 


53.19 


.8 


38.76 


.8 


30.49 


.8 


25.13 


.9 


84.03 


9 


52.91 


9 


38.61 


.9 


30.40 


.9 


25.0<-. 


12. 


83.33 


19 


52.63 


26- 


38.46 


33. 


30.30 


40. 


25.00 


1 


82.64 


1 


52..H6 


i 


38.31 


.1 


30.21 


.1 


24.94 


2 


81.97 


2 


52.08 


2 


38.17 


.2 


'<0.12 


t 


24.88 


.3 


81.30 


3 


51.81 


3 


38.02 


Js 


30.03 


.9i 


24.81 


.4 


80.65 


4 


51.55 


4 


37.88 


.4 


29.94 


A 


24.75 


.6 


80.00 


.5 


51.28 


5 


37.74 


.5 


29.85 


.5 


24.69 


.6 


79.37 


.6 


51.02 


.6 


37.59 


.6 


29.76 


.6 


24.63 


7 


78.74 


.7 


50.76 


7 


37.45 


.7 


29.67 


.7 


24.57 


8 


78.12 


.8 


50.51 


.8 


37.31 


.8 


29.59 


.8 


24.51 


.9 


77.52 


.9 


50.25 


.9 


37.17 


.9 


29.50 


.9 


24.45 


la 


76.92 


80 


50.00 


27 


37.04 


34. 


29.41 


41. 


24.39 


.1 


76.34 


.1 


49.75 




36.90 


.1 


29.33 


.1 


24.33 


.2 


75.76 


.2 


49.50 


2 


36.77 


.2 


29.24 


o 


24.27 


.3 


76.19 


.8 


49.26 


'.Z 


36.63 


.3 


29.15 


^3 


24.21 


.4 


74.63 


.4 


49.02 


A 


36.50 


.4 


29.07 


.4 


24.16 


,5 


74.07 


.5 


48.78 


.5 


36.36 


.5 


28.99 


.5 


24.10 


.6 


73.63 


.6 


48.54 


.6 


36.23 


.6 


28.90 


.6 


24.04 


.7 


72.99 


.7 


46.81 


7 


36.10 


.7 


28.82 


.7 


23.98 


.8 


72.46 


.6 


48.08 


."8 


35.97 


.8 


28.74 


.8 


23.92 


.6 


71.94 


.9 


47.85 


■' 


35.84 


.9 28.65 


.9 


23.87 



Practical Cottox Calculations 



n 



Table for numbering Cotton Yarn by the weight in gram* of 
120 yards or I sUein, 



i2Cyds 


Numbfr 


120yds 


Number 


I20yd8 


Number 


120yd6 


Number 


120ydc 


Number 


weigh 


of 


weigb 


of 


weigh 


of 


weigh 


of 


weigh 


of 


grains. 


Yarn. 


graius. 


Yarn. 


grains. 


Yarn 


gr&ins. 


Yarn 


graioE. 


\btx> 


42. 


23.81 


49. 


20.41 


56. 


17.86 


63 


15.87 


70. 


14.20 


.1 


23.75 


.1 


20.37 


.1 


17.83 


.1 


15.85 


.1 


14.27 


.2 


23.70 


.2 


20.33 


.2 


17.79 


.2 


15.83 


.2 


14.2:. 


.3 


23.G4 


.3 


20.28 


.3 


17.76 


.3 


15.80 


.3 


14.22 


A 


23.58 


.4 


20.24 


.4 


17.73 


.4 


15.77 


.4 


14.20 


.5 


23.53 


.6 


20.20 


.5 


17.70 


.5 


15.75 


.5 


14.18 


.6 


23.47 


.6 


20.16 


.6 


17.67 


.6 


16,72 


.6 


14.16 


.7 


23.42 


.7 


20.12 


.7 


17.64 


.7 


15.70 


.7 


14.14 


.8 


23.36 


.8 


20.08 


.8 


17.61 


.8 


15.67 


.8 


14.12 


.9 


23.31 


.9 


20.04 


.9 


17.57 


.9 


15.65 


.9 


14.10 


43. 


23.26 


50. 


20.00 


57. 


17.54 


64. 


15.62 


71. 


14.08 


.1 


23.20 


.1 


19.96 


.1 


17.51 


.1 


15.60 


.1 


14.06 


.2 


23.15 


.2 


19.92 


.2 


17.48 


.2 


15.58 


.2 


14.04 


.3 


23.09 


.3 


19.88 


.3 


17.45 


.3 


15.55 


.3 


14.03 


.4 


23.04 


.4 


19.84 


.4 


17.42 


.4 


15.53 


.4 


14.01 


.5' 


22.99 


.5 


19.80 


.6 


17.39 


.5 


15.50 


.5 


13.99 


.6 


22.94 


.6 


19.76 


.6 ; 17.36 


.6 


15.48 


.6 


13.97 


.7 


22.88 


.7 


19.72 


.7 1 17.33 


.7 


15.46 


.7 


13.95 


.8 


22.83 


.8 


19.69 


.8 


17.30 


.8 


15.43 


.8 


13.93 


,9 


22.78 


.9 


19.65 


•G 


17.27 


.9 


15.41 


.9 


13.91 


44. 


22.73 


61. 


19.61 


68. 


17.24 


66. 


15.38 


7». 


13.89 


.1 


22.68 


.1 


19.57 


.1 


17.21 


.1 


15.36 


.1 


13.87 


2 


22.62 


.2 


19.53 


.2 


17.18 


.2 1 15.34 


,2 


13.85 


.3 


22.57 


.3 


19.49 


.3 


17.15 


.3 ' 15.31 


.3 


13.83 


.4 


22.52 


.4 


19.46 


.4 


17.12 


.4 


15.29 


,4 


13.81 


.5 


22.47 


■ .5 


19.42 


.6 


17.09 


.5 


15.27 


.5 


13.79 


.6 


22.42 


.6 


19.38 


.6 


17.06 


.6 


16.24 


,6 


13.77 


.7 


22.37 


.7 


19.34 


.7 


17.04 


.7 


15.22 


,7 


13.76 


.8 


22.32 


.8 


19.31 


.8 


17.01 


.8 


15.20 


.8 


13.74 


.9 


22.27 


.9 


19.27 


.9 


16.98 


.9 


15,17 


,9 


13.72 


45. 


22.22 


.V^. 


19.23 


6t> 


16.95 


66 


15.15 


73 


13.70 


.1 


22.17 


.1 


19.19 


.1 


16.92 


.1 


15.13 


.1 


13.68 


2 


22.12 


,2 


19.16 


.2 


16.89 


.2 


15.11 


.2 


13.66 


.3 


22.08 


.3 


19.12 


.3 


16.86 


.3 


15.08 


,3 


13.64 


.4 


22.03 


.4 


19.08 


.4 


16.84 


.4 


15.06 


.4 


13.62 


.5 


21.98 


.5 


19.05 


.5 


16.81 


.5 


15.04 


,5 


13.61 


.H 


21.9.T 


.6 


19.01 


.6 


16.78 


.6 


15.02 


.6 


13.59 


7 


21.88 


.7 


18.98 


.7 


16.75 


.7 


14.99 


.7 


13.57 


.8 


21.83 


.8 


18.9^ 


.8 


16.72 


.8 


14.97 


.8 


13.65 


.9 


21.79 


.9 


18.90 


.9 


16-.6ij 


.9 


14.95 


9 


13.53 


46 


21.74 


53. 


18.87 


60. 


16.67 


67. 


14.93 


7» 


1.T51 


,1 


21.6V 


.1 


18.83 


.1 


16.64 


.1 


14.90 


.1 


13.50 


2 


21.65 


2 


18.80 


.2 


16.61 


.2 


14.88 


.2 


13.48 


.3 


21.60 


.3 


18.76 


.3 


16.5i? 


.3 


14.86 


.3 


13.46 


.4 


J1.56 


.4 


18.73 


.4 


16.5(1 


.4 


14.84 


.4 


13.44 


.p. 


.'1.51 


.5 


^8.69 


.5 


16.53 


.5 


14.81 


.6 


13.42 


.t; 


n.46 


.6 


18.66 


.6 


16.5( 


.6 


14.79 


.6 


13.40 


7 


21.41 


.7 


18.62 


.7 


16.47 


.7 


14.77 


,7 


13.39 


.8 


21.37 


.8 


18.59 


.8 


16.45 


.8 


14.75 


.8 


13.37 


.9 


21.32 


.9- 


18.5;i 


.9 


16.42 


.9 


14.73 


.9 


13.35 


47 


21.28 


64. 


18.52 


61. 


16.39 


68. 


14.71 


75 


13.33 


.1 


21.23 


.1 


18.4H 


.1 


16.37 


.1 


14.68 


.1 


13.32 


.2 


21.19 


.2 


18.45 


2 


16.34 


.2 


14.66 


.2 


13..30 


.3 


21.14 


.3 


18.42 


'.3 


16.31 


.3 


14.64 


.3 


13.28 


.4 


21.10 


.4 


18.38 


A 


16.29 


.4 


14.62 


.4 


13.26 


.5 


21.05 


.5 


18.35 


.5 


16.26 


.5 


14.60 


.5 


13.25 


.6 


21.01 


.6 


18.32 


6 


16.23 


.6 


14.58 


.6 


13,23 


.7 


20.96 


.7 


18.28 


7 


16.21 


.7 


14.56 


.7 


13^21 


.8 


20.92 


.8 


18.25 


.8 


16.19 


.8 


14.53 


.8 


13.19 


.9 


20.88 


.9 


18.21 


9 


16.16 


.9 


14.51 


.9 


13.18 


«tv 


20.83 


56. 


18.18 


6^ 


16.13 


Ub 


14.49 


76 


13.16 


.1 


20.79 


.1 


18.15 


.i 


16.10 


.1 


14.47 


.1 


13 14 


.2 


20.75 


.2 


18.12 


.2 


16.08 


.2 


14.45 


.2 


13.12 


.3 


20.70 


i 


18.08 


.3 


16.05 


.3 


14.43 


.3 


13.11 


.4 


20.66 


18.05 


.4 


16.03 


.4 


14.41 


.4 


13.09 


.5 


20.62 


.5 


18.02 


.5 


16.00 


.6 


14.^9 


.5 


13.07 


.6 1 


20.57 


.6 


17.99 


6 


15.97 


.6 


14.37 


.6 


13.05 


.7 20.58 


.7 


17.95 


7 


15.95 


7 


14.35 


.7 


13.04 


.8 20.49 


.8 


17.92 


.8 


15.92 


.8 


14.33 


.8 


13.02 


.» 20.45 


.9 


17.89 


9 


15.90 


.9 


14.31 


.9 


IS.OO 



18 



Pkactical Cottox Calcui.ations 



Table fo' numbering Cotton Yarn by the weight in grains of 
120 yards o' i sUein 





IWydi. Number 


120.> d3 


Nuuibvr 


I20>d.- 


Nun.l.tT 


120>d3 


Number 


l-.iOvd» 


Number 




weigh 


of 


weisjh 


of 


«eiph 


of 


weigh 


ol 


«,;isii 


of 




griias . 


Yarn 
12.9!) 


tiraios 


Yarn 


graioa 


Yarn 


(,'raiD3 


Varn 


trains. 


Yaro 




77. 


84. 


11.90 


91. 


10.90 


98. 


10.20 


t0.'>. 


9.52 




.1 


12.97 


.1 


11.89 


.1 


10.98 


.1 


10.19 


.1 


9.51 




.2 


12.95 


.2 


11.88 


.2 


10.90 


.2 


10.18 


.2 


9.51 




.3 1 12.94 1 


.3 


11.80 


.3 


10.95 


.3 


10.17 


.3 


9.50 




.4 12.1)2 1 


.4 


11.85 


.4 


10.94 


.4 


10.10 


A 


9.49 




.5 


12.9() 


.5 


11.83 


.5 


10.93 


.5 


10.15 


.6 


9.48 




.U 


12.H9 


.0 


11.82 


.6 


10.92 


.6 


10.14 


.0 


9.47 




.7 


12.87 


.7 


11. SI 


.7 


10.91 


.7 


10.13 


.7 


9.46 




.8 


12.85 


.8 


11.79 


.8 


10.89 


.8 


10.12 


.8 


9.45 




.9 


12.H4 


.v> 


11.78 


.9 


10.88 


.9 


10.11 


.9 


9.44 




78. 


1 2.82 


85 


11.70 


92. 


10.87 


99. 


10.10 


106. 


9.43 




.1 


12.80 


.1 


11.75 


.1 


10.80 


;i 


10.09 


.1 


9.43 




.2 


12.7!) 


.2 


11.74 


.2 


10.85 


.2 


10.08 


.2 


9.42 




.3 


12.77 


3 


11.72 


.3 


10.83 


.3 


10.07 


.3 


9.41 




.4 


12.76 


.4 


11.71 


.4 


10.82 


.4 


1 0.00 


.4 


9.40 




.5 


12.74 


.5 


11.70 


.5 


10.81 


.5 


10.06 


.5 


9.39 




.6 


12.72 
12.71 


.0 


11.08 


.0 


10.80 


.0 


10.04 


.0 


9.38 


.7 


.7 


11.07 


7 


10.79 


.7 


10.03 


.7 


9.37 


; 


.8 


12.09 


.8 


11. 0(! 


.8 


10.78 


.8 


10.02 


.8 


9.36 




.9 


12.07 


<4 


11.04 


<> 


10.70 


9 


10.01 


9 


9.36 




79. 


12.00 


86 


11.03 


93. 


10.75 


100. 


10.00 


107. 


9.36 




.1 


12.04 


.1 


11.01 


.1 


10.74 


.1 


9.99 


.1 


934 




.2 


12.03 


.2 


11.00 


.2 


10.73 


2 


9.98 


.2 


933 




.3 


12.61 


.3 


11.59 


3 


10.72 


.3 


9.97 


.3 


9.32 




.4 


12.59 


.4 


11.67 


.4 


10.71 


.4 


9.90 


.4 


9.31 




.6 


12.58 


.5 


11.50 


.5 


10.70 


•P 


9.95 


.6 


9.30 




.6 


12.50 


.6 


11.65 


.6 


10.68 


M 


9.94 


.0 


9.29 


^ 


.7 


12.55 


.7 


11.53 


.7 


10.67 


.7 


9.93 


.7 


9.29 




.8 


12.53 


.8 


11.52 


.8 


10.60 


.8 


9.92 


.8 


9'.28 




.9 


12.52 


.9 


11.61 


9 


10.65 


.9 


9.91 


9 


927 




80. 


1250 


87. 


11.49 


94. 


10.64 


101. 


9.90 


108. 


9.26 




.1 


12.48 


.1 


11.48 


.1 


10.63 


.1 


9.89 


.1 


9.26 






12.47 


.2 


11.47 


.2 


10.62 


.2 


9.88 


.2 


9-24 




'.3 


12.45 


is 


11.45 


.3 


10.60 


.3 


9.87 


.3 


9.23 




.4 


12.44 


.4 


11.44 


.4 


10.59 


.4 


9.86 


.4 


9.23 




.6 


12.42 


.5 


11.43 


.5 


10.58 


.5 


9.85 


.6 


9.22 




.« 


12.41 


.0 


11.42 


.0 


10.57 


.6 


9.84 


.6 


9.21 




.7 


12.39 


.7 


11.40 


.7 


10.56 


.7 


9.83 


.7 


9.20 




.8 


12.38 


.8 


11.39 


.8 


10.55 


.8 


9.82 


.8 


9.19 




.9 


12.30 


9 


11.38 


9 


10.54 


9 


9.81 


.9 


9.18 




81 


12.35 


88 


11.30 


95. 


10.53 


102. 


9.80 


109. 


9.17 




.1 


12.33 


1 


11.35 


1 


10.52 


.1 


9.79 


.2 


9.16 




,2 


12.32 


.2 


11.34 


2 


10.50 


.2 


9.78 


.4 


9.14 




.3 


12.30 


.3 


1 1 .33 


.3 


10.49 


.3 


9.78 


.0 


9.12 




.4 


12.29 


.4 


11.31 


4 


10.48 


.4 


9.77 


.8 


9.11 




.6 


12.27 


.6 


11.30 


.5 


10.47 


.5 


9.70 


110. 


9.09 




.6 


12.25 


6 


11.29 


.0 


10.46 


6 


9.75 


.2 


9.07 




7 


12.24 


.7 


11.27 


7 


10.45 


.7 


9.74 


.4 


9.00 




.8 


12.22 


.8 


1 1 .20 


.8 


10.44 


.8 


9.73 


.6 


9.04 




.9 


12.21 


9 


11.25 





10.43 


.9 


9.72 


.8 


9.03 




83- 


1220 


89 


11.24 


96 


10.42 


103 


9.71 


111. 


9.01 




.1 


12.18 


1 


11.22 


.1 


10.41 


.1 


9.70 


.2 


8.99 




.2 


12.17 




11.21 


.2 


10.40 


.2 


9.09 


.4 


8.98 




.3 


12.15 


.3 


11.20 


.3 


10.38 


.3 


9.08 


.6 


8.90 




.4 


12.14 


.4 


11.19 


.4 


10.37 


.4 


9.07 


.8 


8.94 




.5 


12.12 


.6 


11.17 


.5 


10.30 


.6 


9.06 


112. 


8.93 




.6 


1211 


.6 


11.10 


.6 


10.35 


.6 


9.65 


.2 


8.91 




.7 


12.09 


.7 


11.15 


.7 


10.34 


.7 


9.64 


.4 


8.90 




.8 


12.08 


.8 


11.14 


.8 


10.33 


.8 


9.63 


.6 


8.88 




.9 


12.06 


9 


11.12 


.9 


10.32 


.9 


9.02 


.8 


8.87 




S3- 


12.05 


90. 


11.11 


97 


10.31 


104. 


9.02 


113. 


8,85 




.1 


12.03 


.1 


11.10 


.1 


10.30 


.1 


9.61 


.2 


8.83 




.2 


12.02 




11.09 


.2 


10.29 


.2 


9.00 


.4 


8.82 




.3 


12.00 


.3 


11.07 


.3 


10.28 


.3 


9.59 


.6 


8.80 




.4 


11.99 


.4 


11.06 


.4 


10.27 


.4 


9.58 


.8 


8.79 




.6 


11.98 


.5 


11.05 


.5 


10.26 


.5 


9.57 


114. 


8.77 




.6 


11.96 


.6 


11.04 


.0 


10.25 


.6 


9.50 


.2 


8.70 




.7 


11.95 


.7 


11.03 


.7 


10.24 


.7 


9.55 


4 


8.74 




.8 


11.93 


.8 


11.01 


.8 


10.22 


.8 


9.54 


.6 


8.73 




.9 


11.92 


.9 


11.00 


.9 


10.21 


.9 


9.53 


.8 


8.71 



Practical Cottox Calculatioxs 



19 



Table for numbering Cotton Yarn by the weight m grains o* 
l20 yards or I skein 



I20yda 


Numb«r 


I20yd3 


Numbei 


I20yd8 


Numbei 


I20ycl3 


Number 


120.vds 


Numbei 


weigh 


of 


weigh 


of 


weigh 


of 


weiKh 


of 


wflgh 


of 


grains. 


Yaro 


graias. 


Yarn. 


griuo3. 


Yarn 


graiDii, 


Yarn 


grains. 


Yarn. 


115. 


8.70 


140. 


7.14 


180. 


5.56 


s.io 


4.00 


400. 


2.50 


.2 


8.68 


.5 


7.12 


181. 


5.52 


252. 


3.97 


405. 


2.47 


.4 


8.67 


141. 


7.09 


182. 


5.49 


254. 


3.94 


410. 


2.44 


.6 


8.65 


.5 


7.07 


183. 


5.4r. 


256. 


3.91 


415. 


2.41 


.8 


8.64 


142. 


7.04 


184. 


5.43 


258. 


3.88 


420. 


2.38 


116. 


8.62 


.5 


7.02 


185. 


5.41 


260. 


3.85 


425. 


2.35 


.2 


8.61 


143. 


6.99 


136, 


5.38 


262. 


3.82 


430. 


2.36 


.4 


8.59 


.5 


6.97 


187. 


5.35 


264. 


3.79 


435. 


2.30 


.6 


8.58 


144. 


6.94 


188. 


5.32 


266. 


3.76 


440. 


2.27 


.8 


8.56 


.5 


6.92 


189. 


5.29 


268. 


3.73 


445. 


2.25 


117. 


8.65 


113. 


6.90 


190. 


5.26 


370. 


3.70 


450. 


2.22 


.2 


8.53 


.5 


6.87 


1-Jl. 


5.24 


272. 


3.68 


455. 


2.20 


A 


8.52 


146. 


6.85 


192. 


5.21 


274. 


3.65 


460. 


2.17 


.6 


8.50 


.5 


6.83 


193. 


5.18 


276. 


3.62 


465. 


2.15 


.8 


8.49 


147. 


6.80 


194. 


5.16 


278. 


3.60 


470. 


2.13 


118. 


8.47 


.5 


6.78 


195. 


5.13 


280. 


3.67 


475. 


2.11 


.2 


8.46 


148. 


6.76 


196. 


5.1U 


282. 


3.55 


480. 


2.08 


.4 


8.45 


.5 


6.73 


197. 


5.08 


284. 


3.52 


485, 


2.06 


.6 


8.43 


149. 


6.71 


198 


5.05 


286. 


3.50 


490. 


2.04 


.3 


8.42 


.5 


6. 69 


199. 


6.03 


288. 


:?.47 


495. 


2.02 


119. 


8.40 


150. 


6.67 


300 


5. 00 


390. 


3.45 


500. 


2.00 


.2 


8.39 


.5 


6.64 


201. 


4.98 


292. 


3.42 


505. 


1.08 


.4 


8.38 


151. 


6.02 


202. 


4.95 


294. 


3.40 


510. 


1.96 


.6 


8.36 


.5 


6.60 


203. 


4.93 


296. 


3.38 


515. 


1.94 


.8 


8.35 


152 


6.58 


204 


4.90 


298 


3.36 


520. 


1.92 


120. 


8.33 


.5 


6.56 


205. 


4.88 


300. 


3.33 


625. 


1.90 


.2 


8.33 


153. 


6.54 


206, 


4.85 


302. 


3.31 


530. 


1.89 


.4 


8.31 


5 


6.51 


207. 


4.83 


304. 


3.29 


535. 


1.87 


.6 


8.29 


154. 


6.4y 


208, 


4.81 


306. 


3.27 


540. 


1.85 


.8 


8.28 


5 


6.47 


209. 


4.78 


308. 


3.25 


545. 


1.83 


191. 


8.26 


155. 


6.45 


810. 


4.76 


310 


3.23 


550. 


1.82 


.4 


8.24 


.6 


6.43 


211. 


4.74 


312 


3.21 


555. 


1.80 


.6 


8.22 


153. 


6.41 


212. 


4.72 


314. 


3.18 


560. 


1.79 


.8 


8.21 


.5 


6.39 


213. 


4.69 


316. 


3.17 


565. 


1.77 


122. 


8.20 


157. 


6.37 


214. 


4.67 


318. 


3.14 


570. 


1.75 


.5 


8.16 


.5 


6.35 


215. 


4.65 


320. 


3.12 


575. 


1.74 


123. 


8.13 


158. 


6.33 


216. 


4.63 


322 


3.11 


580. 


1.72 


5 


8.10 


5 


6.31 


217. 


4.61 


324.' 


3.09 


585. 


1.71 


124. 


8.06 


159. 


6.29 


218. 


4.50 


320. 


3.07 


590. 


1.69 


.5 


8.03 


5 


6.27 


219. 


4.57 


328. 


3.05 


595. 


1.68 


125. 


8.00 


160. 


6.25 


230 


4.55- 


3.SO 


3.03 


000. 


1.67 


.5 


7.97 


5 


6.23 


221 


4.52 


332. 


3.01 


(JIO. 


1.64 


126. 


7.94 


161. 


6.21 


222 


4.50 


334. 


2.99 


620. 


1.61 


.5 


7.91 


6 


6.19 


223 


4.48 


336. 


2.98 


630. 


1.59 


127. 


7.87 


162. 


6.17 


224. 


4.4(^ 


338. 


2.96 


640. 


1.56 


.5 


7.84 


.5 


6.15 


225 


4.44 


340. 


2.94 


050. 


1.54 


128. 


7.81 


163. 


6.13 


226 


4.42 


342. 


2.92 


660. 


1.52 


.5 


7.73 


5 


6.12 


227 


4.41 


344. 


2.91 


670. 


1.49 


129. 


7.75 


164. 


6.10 


228. 


4.39 


346 


2.89 


680. 


1.47 


.5 


7.72 


.5 


6.08 


229 


4.37 


348 


2.87 


690. 


1.45 


130. 


7.C9 


165. 


6.06 


330. 


4.35 


3.50 


2.86 


700. 


1.43 


5 


7.66 


.5 


6.04 


231. 


4.33 


352 


2.84 


710. 


1.41 


131. 


7.03 


166. 


6.02 


232 


4.31 


354. 


2.82 


720. 


1.39 


.5 


7.00 


.5 


6.01 


233. 


4.29 


35ti. 


2.81 


730. 


1.37 


132. 


7..'-.8 


167. 


5.99 


234 


4.27 


358 


2.79 


740. 


1.35 


.5 


7.55 


.5 


5.97 


235. 


4.26 


3(>0. 


2.78 


750. 


1.33 


133. 


7.53 


168. 


5.95 


236. 


4.24 


362. 


2.76 


760. 


1.32 


.6 


7.49 


.5 


6.93 


237. 


4.22 


364. 


2.75 


770. 


1.30 


134. 


7.46 


169. 


6.92 


238. 


4.20 


366 


2.73 


780. 


1.28 


.5 


7.43 


5 


5.00 


239. 


4.18 


368 


2.72 


790. 


1.27 


lys. 


7.41 


170 


5.88 


340. 


4,17 


370 


2.70 


800. 


1.25 


A 


7.33 


ITl. 


5.35 


241. 


4.15 


372. 


2.69 


820. 


1.22 


13G. 


7.35 


172. 


5.81 


242. 


4.13 


374. 


2.67 


840. 


1.19 


.5 


7.33 


173. 


5.78 


243. 


4.12 


376. 


2.66 


860. 


1.16 


137. 


7.30 


174. 


5.75 


244. 


4.10 


373. 


2.65 


880. 


1.14 


.5 


7.27 


175. 


5.71 


245. 


4.08 


380. 


2r.3 


900. 


1.11 


138. 


7.25 


176, 


5.68 


246. 


4.07 


382. 


2 ''i2 


925. 


1.08 


.5 


7.22 


177. 


5.65 


247. 


4.05 


385. 


2!60 


950. 


1.05 


139. 


7. 19 


178. 


5.62 


248. 


4.03 


390. 


2.56 


075. 


1.03 


.5 


7.17 


179. 


5 '>9 


240 


4 1? 


395. 


2.53 


1000. 


1.00 



20 Practical Cottok Calculatioxs 

SYSTEMS OF NUMBERING YARNS OP 
VARIOUS MATERIALS 

The following systems, where higher counts indicate 
finer yarns, are used in the United States: 
Raw silk = number of yards per ounce. 
Spun silk = 840 yards per hank. 
Cotton = 840 yards per hank. 
Worsted = 560 yards per hank. 
Woolen = 1600 yards per run. 
Woolen = 300 yards per cut. 
Linen = 300 yards per cut. 
The cut system of woolen counts Is principally used 
in the vicinity of Philadelphia. 

The yarn calculations applying to cotton will also 
apply to any of the above systems, using their respective 
standard leng-ths instead of 840. 

EQUIVALENT COUNTS 

To Find Equivalent Counts of Yarn from One 
System to Another. 

Rule 4. Multiply the given counts of yarn by its 
standard length and divide by the standard length in 
the system desired. 

Example. What counts of worsted is equal to a 30's 
cotton yarn? 

30's counts X 840 cotton standard 

• = 45's counts, Ans. 

560 worsted standard 

Short Methods to Find Equivalent Counts of 
Yarn in Woolen, Worsted, Linen, Raw 
Silk, or Metric System of Counting Cotton 
to a Given United States Cotton Yam. 

.5^5 X counts of cotton yarn = woolen counts, 

run system. 



Practical Cotton^ Calculations 21 

1.5 X counts of cotton yarn = worsted counts, 

hank system. 
2.S X counts of cotton yarn = linen counts, 

cut system. 
2.8 X counts of cotton yarn z=:: woolen counts, 

cut system. 
52.5 X counts of cotton yarn = raw silk counts, 

yds. per oz. system. 
1.69 X counts of cotton yarn =: metric system 

of numbering cotton. 

Short Methods to Find Cotton Counts Equiva- 
lent to Any Given Counts of Woolen, 
Worsted, Linen, Raw Silk or the Metric 
System of Counting Cotton Yarn. 

1.905 X counts of woolen yarn, run system. 
.357 X counts of woolen yarn, cut system. 
.357 X counts of linen yarn, cut system. 
.666 X counts of worsted yarn, hank system. 
.019 X counts raw silk yarn, yds. per oz. system. 
.59 X counts of cotton in metric system = cotton 

counts in United States system. 

The preceding constants are obtained as follows: 
840 -~- 1600 = .5:25 for woolen, run system. 

560 =: 1.5 for worsted, hank system. 
300 = 2.8 for linen and woolen, cut system. 
16 (ozs. per lb.) = 52.5 for raw silk, 

yds. per oz. system. 
1600 -~ 840 = 1.905 for woolen, run system. 
300 -r- 840 = .357 for linen and woolen, cut system. 
840 = .666 for worsted, hank system. 
840 = .019 for raw silk, yds. per oz. system. 



840 
840 
840 



560 
16 



22 Practical Cottox Calculations 

RAW SILK CALCULATIONS 

Owing to the growing use of silk yarns in the finer 
grades of fabrics composed for the greater part of cot- 
ton, the relative silk and cotton standards are here in- 
dicated. 

When a problem presents itself in which silk yarns 
have to be considered, first obtain the equivalent cotton 
counts and proceed according to the rules regarding 
cotton yarns and fabrics. 

In addition to the system of numbering raw silk by 
the number of yards per ounce, Avhere higher numbers 
indicate finer yarns, there are two other systems used in 
America and Great Britain. These are known as the 
dram system and the denier system. They diflfer from 
the cotton and spun silk systems in having higher 
numbers indicate coarser yarns. 

The dram system is based on the weight in drams of 
1000 yards of yarn. For example, a 4-dram silk means 
that a length of 1000 yards of yarn weighs 4 drams. 

There are several so-called denier systems, but the 
one recognized by the New York and London condition- 
ing houses, and one extensively used in France, is based 
on the weight in deniers of a skein of 47G metres, or 
520.56 yards. For example a 19/21 denier raw silk means 
that a skein 520.56 yards long weighs from 19 to 21 
deniers. For calculation purposes a 19/21 yarn would 
be considered a 20's yarn. The number 520 is usually 
used instead of 520.56. 

A denier is a small weight equal to .8196 of a grain, 
or .02997 of a dram. 

The. relative values of the dram, denier and *rain 
standards of weights are as follo^vs: 



Practical Cotton Calculations 23 

1 dram = 33 1-3 deniers= 27.34 grains. 
16 drams = 533 1-3 deniers = 43T.5 grains = 1 oz. 

2bQ drains = 8533 deniers =■ 7000 grains 

= 16 ozs. = 1 lb. 

Short Methods to Find Equivalent Counts in 
the Dram Silk, Denier Silk and Cotton 
Systems. 

304.76 -^ dram silk counts == cotton counts. 

o'2^2 -f- denier silk counts = cotton counts. 

304.76 -^ cotton counts = dram silk counts. 

5-2^-2 -^ cotton counts = denier silk counts. 

denier silk counts ^- 17.366 (17 1-3) = dram silk counts^ 

dram silk counts X 17.366 (17 1-3) = denier silk counts. 

The preceding constants are obtained as follows: 
256 grains X 1000 yards 



840 yards 
8533 deniers X 520 yards 



304.76 



840 yards 



= 5282 



1000 yards: 1 dram ::520.56 yards: 17.366 deniers. 

If 1000 yards in the dram system weighs 1 dram for 
No. Ts yarn, 52Q.5Q yards in the denier system will 
weigh 17.366 deniers for the same counts. 

17 1-3 is usually used instead of 17.366. 

The words "organzine" and ''tram,'' used in connection 
with silk, refer to warp and filling yarn respectively. 
Organzine silk usually contains more fibres than tram 
silk, and is harder twisted. 



24 Practical Cottox Calculatioxs 

COUNTS OF TWISTED OR PLY AND 
CABLE YARNS 

When single yarns are twisted together to form a ply- 
yarn, the result is usually a heavier yarn than the 
counts divided by the number of ends twisted together, 
owing to the contraction in twisting. This can be 
proved by twisting two yarns together to a certain 
length, weighing them, and comparing the weight with 
the weight of single yarns of a simlar length of the 
original counts. 

For calculation purposes, however, a cotton ply yarn 
composed of two or more yarns of equal counts is re- 
garded as being the size of the single yarns divided by 
the number of strands; thus a yarn composed of two 
strands of 60's twisted together is considered equal to 
one of 30\s single; a yarn composed of three strands of 
60's is considered equal to one of i^O's single, but the 
more twist there is put into a yarn the more it will 
contract in length and the coarser will be the actual 
counts. ~ 

Ply yarns which are composed of single strands of 
equal size of yarn are indicated by the number of strands 
which are twisted together and the counts of the single- 
yarns written afterwards; thus :3/40's means two yarns 
of 40's twisted together, 3/100's means three yarns of 
lOO's twisted together. These yarns would be equal to 
single yarns composed of 30's and 33.33's, respectively. 

Cable yarns are composed of two or more ply yarns 
twisted together to form a fancy yarn. A 4/3/50's 
cable yarn would be composed of four ends of :?/50's 
twisted together, making in all eight ends of 50's yarn, 
and would be equal to a single yarn of 614 counts. 

Unless used for fancy yarns for special purposes, 
two single yarns of unequal counts are seldom or never 



Practical Cottox Calculations 25 

used, as equal single yarns combined make the best ply 
yarns. 

To Find the Counts of a Single Yarn Equal to 
a Ply Yam Composed of 2 Single Yams 
of Unequal Counts. 

Rule 5. Divide the product of the txio caunts by 
their sum. 

Example. Wliat counts of a single yarn is equal to 
a yarn composed of 30's and 30's twisted together? 

30- X 20 600 

— = = 12"s counts, Ans. 



30 + ~u oi! 

See table on page 120. 

To Find Counts of a Single Yarn Equal to a 
Ply Yarn Composed of 2 or More Yams 
of Unequal Counts. 

Rule 6. Divide the highest counts by itself and by 
each of the tower counts in succession; add results and 
divide into the highest counts. 

Example. What would be equal in a single yarn to 
a ply yarn composed of 50's, 80's and lOO's? 





100 -f- 100 r=: 1.00 




100-^- 80 = 1.2) 




100 -- 50 = 2.00 




4.25 


00- 


- 4.25 = 23.53's counts, Ans. 



To Find Counts of a Yam to Twist with a 
Given Yam to Produce a Required Ply 
Yarn. 

Rule 7, Multiply the required counts by the given 
counts and divide bi/ their diference. 



26 Practical Cottox Calculations 

Example. What counts of yarn is required to twist I 

with a 30's to make a p]y yarn equal to a l:2's? 

30 X 12 360 

= = 20's counts, Ans. 

30—12 18 

See table on page 120. 

To Find Weigfht of Each Counts of Yam Re- 
quired to Make a Given Weight of Ply 
Yarn when Yams of Unequal Counts Are 
TA\isted Together. 

First, when only -2 counts are twisted together. 

Rule 8. Divide the highest counts by itself and by 
the other counts in succession. Add the quotients and 
divide info the total wei(/ht. 

The result will be the weight of the highest counts. 

Deduct the latter from the total iceight to find the 
weight of the other counts. 

Example. It is desired to make 75 lbs. of ply yarn 
composed of 80's and 60's. What weight of each is re- 
quired ? 

80 -- 80 r= 1 
80-^-60=1 1-3 



21-3 



75 lbs. -^2 1-3 = 32.14 lbs. of 80's, Ans. 
75 — 32.14 =1 42.86 lbs. of 60's, A ns. 

If it is required to find the weight when more than 
two varns are used the above rule will have to be modified. 



Practical Cotton Calculations 27 

Example. It is required to make 100 lbs. of ply yarn 
composed of lOO's, 80's and 50's. What weight of each 
is required? 

100 -f- 100=1 
100-^ 80=1.25 
100 -V- 50 = 2 



4.25 



100 lbs. -^ i.:25 = 23.529 lbs. of lOO's, ^n5. 
23.529 X 1.25 = 29.411 lbs. of 80's, Ans. 
23.529 X 2 = 47.058 lbs. of 50's, Ans. 



99.998 lbs. total weight. 

Rules 5 to 8 are only approximately correct because 
when yarns of unequal counts are twisted together, the 
coarser yarn has a tendency to retain a straight line and 
deflect tlie fine yarn. For a given length of ply yarn 
it would therefore be necessary to use a longer length 
of the fine than the coarse. 

Rules 5 to 8 will apply in all the systems, except spun 
silk, mentioned on page 20. 

To Find Weight of Each Kind of Warp Yarn 
Required in a Group of Warps of Equal 
Length when Number of Ends of Each 
Kind, Counts and Total Weight Are 
Known. 

Rule 9. Divide the number of ends of each counts 
by its own counts. Add quotients. The result is to the 
total weight as each quotient is to the weight required of 
the respective counts. 



28 Practical Cottox Calculatioxs 

Example. A set of warps are arranged as fallows: 
1st, 144 ends of 3/54's; 2d, 88 ends of 4/32's; 3d, 2400 
ends of 50's. What weight of each warp is required to 
make a total weight of 100 lbs., provided the warps are 
all the same length? 

144 ends of 3/24's = 432 ends of 24's 
88 ends of 4/32's = 352 ends of 32's 
432 ends -^ 24's counts = 18 
352 ends -^ 32's counts =: 11 
2400 ends -f- 50's counts = 48 

7t 



77 
77 
77 



100 lbs. ::18 :23.38 lbs. of 24's, Ans. 
100 lbs. ::11 :14.28 lbs. of 32's, Ans. 
100 lbs. ::48 :62.34 lbs. of 50's, Ans. 



100.00 lbs. total weiffht. 



COUNTS OF SPUN SILK PLY YARNS 

Spun silk is counted like cotton when in the single 
yarn, but when writing the counts of ply silk the first 
number indicates the actaal counts; thus 30/2. or 30's 2 
fold, means two strands of 60's. An equivalent to this 
in cotton would be written 2/60's. 30/3, or 30's 3 fold 
in spun silk means three strands of 90's, whilst 3/30"s 
in cotton means three strands of 30's. 

In some mills cotton ply yarn counts are written with 
the number of strands last, thus 30/3, which means that 
it is equal to a lO's, but as this method conflicts with 
the silk method it is not as generally used as the method 
previously explained, i. e., writing the nmnber of ply 
first. 



Practical Cottox CAi.crLATioxs 29 

TO FIND COUNTS, LENGTH OR WEIGHT 
OF COTTON YARN 

To Find Counts of Cotton Yarn when Length 
and Weight Are Known. 

'"Rule 10. Divide the length by the iceight and by 

840. 

Example. If 126000 yards of yarn weigh 6 lbs., what 
are the counts? 

1:26000 yards 

= ;25\s counts, Ans. 

6 lbs. X 840 

To Find Length of Cotton Yarn when Counts 
and Weight Are Known. 

'•^Rule 11. Multiply the counts by the weight and 

by 840. 

Exampij:. What length of yarn is contained in 6 lbs. 
of 25's yarn? 

25's counts X 6 lbs. X 840 = 1:26000 yds., Ans. 

To Find Weight of Cotton Yarn when Counts 
and Length Are Known. 

'•^Rule 12. Divide the length by the counts and by 

S4O. 

Example. What is the weight of 1;?6000 yards of 
25's cotton yarn? 

126000 yards 

= 6 lbs., .4 715. 



25's counts X 840 



30 Practical Cottox Calculations 

The three preceding rules, 10, 11 and 12, may be 
summarized in — 



Formula A. To Find Counts, Length or 
Weight of Cotton Yarn when the Other 
Factors Are Known 

1 



Length in yards J 



Weight in lbs. 
are X 

equal ^ Counts 

to j X 

j 840 



Rule. Divide the product of the remaining items of 
the group containing the required item into the product 
of the other group. 

TO FIND WEIGHT, COUNTS OR NUMBER 
OF HANKS OF YARN 

To Find Weight of Yarn when Counts and 
Number of Hanks Are Known. 

Rule 13. Divide the number of hanks by the counts. 
Example. What is the weight of 840 hanks of llO's 
yarn ? 

840 hanks -v- llO's counts = 7.63 lbs., Ans. 

To Find Counts of Yam when Weight and 
Number of Hanks Are Known. 

Rule 14. Divide the nuynber of hanks by the weight. 
Example. 260 hanks of cotton yarn weigh 15 lbs. 
What are the counts? 

260 hanks -r- 15 lbs. = 17 1-3's counts, Ans. 



Practical Cotton Calculations 31 

To Find Number of Hanks when Weight and 
Counts Are Known. 

Rule 15. Multiply the iveight by the counts. 

Example. How many hanks are there in 20 lbs. of 
60's yarn? 

20 lbs. X 60's counts r=: 1200 hanks, Ans. 

The three preceding rules, 13, 14 and 15, may be 
summarized in — 

Formula B. To Find Counts, Weight or 
Number of Hanks when the Other 
Factors Are Known. 

Counts r are ^ 

X ^ equal Y Number of hanks. 

Weight in lbs. I to -' 

ICule. Divide the 'product of the remaimng items of 
the group containing the required item into the product 
of the other group. 

For other data regarding yarns see "Twists Per 
Inch, Diameters and' Breaking Weights." 

BEAM YARN AND WARP CALCULA- 
TIONS 

It is intended in the following rules to cover as nearly 
as possible all calculations required for ascertaining the 
weight, counts, average counts, number of ends, length 
and numiber of hanks of warp yarns. 

To Find Counts of Yam on a Beam when 
Length, Weight and Number of Ends Are 
Known. 

*Rule 16. Multiply the mimber of ends by the 
length and divide by 8^0 and the weight in pounds. 



32 Practical Cotton Calculations 

Example. 1000 ends on a Wcirp 1176' yards long- 
weigh 40 lbs. What are the counts? 

1000 ends X 1176 yards 

z=35's counts, Ans. 

840 X 40 lbs. 

Another method to find counts of yarn on a beam 
is as follows: Take off 1:20 ends each one yard long, or 
240 ends each y, yard long, weigh them and divide the 
weight in grains into 1000. There would be le^s liability 
to error if 840 ends each one yard long were taken and 
weighed, and the weight in grains divided into 7000. 

This method is not as good as Rule Ki when the items 
dealt with there are known. 

To Find Weight of Yarn on a Beam when 
Length, Number of Ends and Counts are 
Known. 

'^Rule 17. M'U'ltlpIy the number of ends by the 
length and divide by 84O and the counts. 

Example. A warp 1176 yards long contains 1000 
ends of 35's cotton yarn. What is the weight? 

1000 ends X 1176 vards 

^ —40 lbs., Ans. 

840 X 35's counts 

Rule 17 may be applied when desiring 

To Find Weight of Warp Yarn in a Piece cf 

Cloth 

but it must be understood that the slashing length, not 
the cloth length, must be taken. 

The table on the following page indicates the num- 



Practicai, Cottox CalculatioxS 



in 



ber of yards of cotton yarn per pound, in counts rang- 
ing from 1 to -250. This will be found useful when 
dealing with problems in which the product of 840 and- 
the counts, as in the preceding example, has to be con- 
sidered. 



Cottox 


Yards per 


Cotton 


Yards per 


Cotton 


Yards peu 


Counts. 


PorxD. 


Counts. 


Pound, 


Counts. 

78 


Pound. 


1 


S40 


35 


29,400 


65,.520 


1'2 


1.2(i0 


36 


30,240 


79 


66.360 


2 


1.680 


37 


31,080 


80 


67.200 


oj^ 


2.100 


38 


31.920 


82 


68,880 


8" 


2,520 


39 


• 32,760 


84 


70.560 


0*2 


2.940 


40 


33,600 


86 


72,240 


■I 


3.3ti0 


41 


34,440 


88 


73,920 


f2 


3.780 


42 


35,280 


90 


75.600 


"1 


4. -200 


43 


3t;,120 


92 


77,280 


■->^2 


4.620 


44 


36,960 


94 


78.960 


{'■> 


5,010 


45 


37,800 


96 


80,640 


t'- 


5,460 


46 


38,640 


98 


82.320 


7 


5.880 


47 


39,480 


100 


84.000 


7V2 


6,300 


48 


40,320 


105 


88,200 


s 


6.720 


49 


41.160 


110 


92,400 


^*2 


7.140 


50 


42.000 


115 


96) .600 


9 


7,560 


51 


42,,^0 


120 


100,800 


9i-> 


7.980 


52 


43,680 


125 


105.(100 


10 " 


S.4(X) 


53 


44, .520 


130 


109.200 


u 


9.240 


.54 


45,360 


135 


113,400 


i2 


lo.aso 


■55 


46,200 


140 


117,600 


13 


10,920 


.56 


47.040 


145 


121,800 


14 


11,760 


57 


47.880 


1,50 


126.000 


15 


12,600 


58 


48.720 


1.55 


130,200 


Iti 


13,440 


59 


49.560 


IGO 


134,400 


17 


14,280 


60 


50,400 


165 


13S.60O 


If^ 


15.120 


61 


51.240 


170 


142,800 


19 


15.960 


62 


.52.080 


175 


147,000 


20 


16,800 


63 


52.920 


180 


151,200 


■21 


17.640 


64 


53,760 


1.85 


1,55,400 


22 


18,480 


(i5 


51,600 


190 


1,59,600 


23 


19,320 


(>6 


55,440 


195 


163,800 


24 


20.160 


67 


,56,2,80 


200 


168,000 


2,5 


21 xm 


(i8 


57,120 


205 


172,200 


26 


21 .,840 


69 


57,960 


210 


176,400 


27 


22,680 


70 


,58.800 


215 


180,600 


2« 


23,520 


71 


.59.640 


220 


184,800 


2<) 


24,360 


72 


60,480 


225 


189.000 


30 


25.200 


73 


(U,.320 


230 


193,200 


31 


2»i,040 


74 


62,160 


235 


197,400 


32 


26,880 


75 


63,00(3 


240 


201 .600 


33 


27,720 


76 


63.840 


245 


205,800 


84 


28, ,560 


77 


64.680 


250 


210,000 



34 Practical Cottox Calculations 

FINDING WEIGHT OF YARN ON BEAM^ 
IN THE LOOMS 

"When taking stock of the amount of yarn in the 
looms, it is customary for the overseer to figure the 
weight of a cut of yarn on each style made, by Rule 
17. By ascertaining the number of cuts of yarn in the 
looms and multiplying by the weight per cut, the weight 
of yarn on the respective styles is obtained. 

Example. A style of goods is made with 2400 ends 
of 60's cotton yarn. o3 yards per cut (slashing length). 
It is required to find the weight of yarn per cut, and 
iilso for -20 cuts. 

By Rule IT— 

2400 ends X oo yards 

=: 2.619 lbs, per cut, Ans. 



840 X 60's counts 



2.G19 lbs. of yarn per cut X 20 cuts=:o2.38 lbs. 

weight of 20 cuts, Ans. 

Some mills do not trouble to ascertain how many 
cuts of each style there are when taking stock, but 
assume eacli beam to be half full, and 'figure accord- 
ingly. This method, although perhaps serving the pur- 
pose, is not accurate unless the person who does the cal- 
culating accidentally guesses the total number of cuts of 
each style, which is not probable. 

To Find Length of Yarn on a Beam when 
Counts, Weight and Number of Ends Are 
Known. 

''^Rule 18. jMnltiplij ihe counts by the weight and 
by 840, and divide by the number of ends. 



Practical Cottox Calculatioxs 35 

Example. What is the leng-th of a cotton warp of 
1000 ends of 3o's yarn if the weight is 40 pounds? 

35's counts X 40 lbs. X 84-0 

^1176 yds., Ans. 

1000 ends 

To Find Number of Ends on a Beam when 
Counts, Weight and Length Are Known. 

'•^Rule 19. Multiphj the counts by the iceight and 
by 840, and divide by the length. 

Example. What is the number of ends on a warp 
1176 yards long, of 35's yarn, if the weight is 40 pounds? 

3o's counts X ^0 lbs. X 840 

rr: 1000 cuds, Ans. 

1176 yards. 

The above rule is of a theoretical nature and will give 
only approximate results. 

The four preceding rules, 16 to 19, may be sum- 
marized in — 

Formula C. To Find Cotton Counts, Weight, 
Length or Number of Ends on a Beam. 



840 

X 
>. Weight in Pounds 



r 

Number of ends 1 are 

X -<! equal 

Length in yards to | X 

[^ j- Counts of yarn 

Rule. Divide the 'product of the remaining factors 
of the group containing the required item into the pro- 
duct of the other group. 



36 Practical Cotton CALcri^\Tioxs 

To Find Average Counts of Yarn in a Set ot 
Warps Containing" Different Counts of 
Yams. 

Rule 20. Divide the number of ends of single yarn 
of each counts by its oxen counts; add the results and 
divide into the total number of ends. 

Example, A warp pattern is arranged 5 ends of 
20's and 2 ends of lO's. What are the average counts? 

5 ends -r- 20's = .33 
2 ends -^ lO's = .2 

7 .45 

7 ends -=- .45 = lo..5\s average counts, Ans. 

It is advisable to find the total number of ends of 
each counts of yarn before proceeding as above. 

Example. A set of 3 warps contains 2SS ends of 
3/20s, 136 ends of 4/58s, and 2552 ends of 40s. 

What are the average counts of the single yarns? 

2SS X 3 = 864 single ends of .-?0's 
136 X 4 = 544 single ends of x?8*s 

864 ends -^- 20's counts = 43.20 

544 ends -h- i?8's counts = 19.43 
2552 ends -^ 40's counts = 63.80 



3960 ends 1;36.43 

3960 total ends-^ 1a?6.43=:31.3:2's average counts, Jus. 

To Find Number of Ends in an Equally Reed- 
ed Warp when Slej?- and Width of Cloth 
Are Knov^oi. 

Rule 21. Multiply the sley by the cloth width and 
add the necessary number of ends for selvedges. 



Practical Cottox Calculatioxs 37 

ExA^iPLE. How many ends would there be in an 88 
sley cloth. 3^ inches wide, allowing ;?4 ends extra for 
selvedges? 

88 sley X 3i? inches ^281G ends. 
2816 + -^ extra for selvedges = 2840 ends, Ans. 

The selvedges mentioned in the preceding example 
would consist of 18 ends. One half of these, 24 ends, are 
considered when multiplying the sley by the width. 

To Find Number of Hanks of Warp Yam in 
a Piece of Cloth when Sley and Cloth 
Width Are Known. 

*itule 22. MiiJtipJt/ sleij bji width; add selvedge 
ends; mttltipli/ ansirer hi/ slas-hinr/ lenqth and divide by 
840. 

Exa:mpi.e. a cloth is made 32 inches wide, 110 sley 
and 100 yards long, the take-up of the warp being 7%. 
How many hanks of warp are there in the cloth? 

110 sley X 32 inches = 3520 -|- 32 for selvedges =3552 

ends in warp. 
100 yds. cloth + 7% = 107 yds. slashing length. 

3552 ends X 107 yards 

— ^=452.45 hanks of warp, Ans. 

840 

To Find Number of Hanks in a Warp when 
Number of Ends and Length Are Known. 

'•'Rule 23. Midtiphj the mimher of ends by the 
length and divide by S40. 



38 Practical Cottox Calculatioxs 

Example. How many hanks are there in a cotton 
warp 800 yards long, containing 19:;?0 ends? 

19:20 ends X 800 yards 

'- =1 1828.6 hanks, Ans. 

840 

To Find Length of a Cotton Warp when 
Number of Hanks and Number of Ends 
Are Known. 

''^Rule 24. Multiply the number of hanks by 84O, 
and divide by the number of ends. 

Example. What is the length of warp of 3000 ends 
that can be made with 330 hanks of cotton yarn? 

350 hanks X 8-tO 

= 14T vards, Ans. 

3000 ends 



To Find Number of Ends in a Warp with Any 
Unequally Reeded Pattern when Sley 
Reed, Width and Warp Layout Are 
Known. 

First fmd the numher of full jiatterns by Rule 36 and 
apply — 

Rule 25. Multiply the number of ends per pattern 
by the number of full patterns; add extra ends for any 
fraction of a pattern, according to varp layout; also add 
selvedge ends. 

Example. A fancy cloth is required to be 33 inches 
wide and woven in a 90 sley reed. Allowing 64 ends in 
16 dents for selvedges, how many ends will be required 
in the warp if the following warp layout is used? 



Practical Cottox Catxulatio^ss 39 



To}) Beam. 


Bottom Beam. 




Dents. 


3/40's yarn 


50's yarn 








80 




40 


1 
1 


6 
6 


S! 


n 
1 yj X 

kip I -^ 


1 


6 




1 


1 


6 




1 


(J ends 


116 ends 




48 dents 



By Rule 26 there are 29 full patterns and lU dents 
extra. 

• IIG ends 50s X 29 patterns = 33GI ends oO's 
6 ends 3/40\s X 29 patterns = lit " 3/40s 
32 extra dents X 2 ends per 

dent = 61 " 50's 

64 ends for selvedges = <il " 50's 

3666 total ends, Ans. 

If it is required to know the total number of ends of 
single yarn the 1T4 ends of 3/40's would be figured as 
522 single ends, making a total of 4014 ends required in 
the warp. 

To Find Number of Patterns in an Unequally 
Reeded Cloth when Sley Reed, Width and 
Number of Dents per Pattern Are Known. 

Rule 26. Multiply one-half the tileif r< ( d bti the 
v'ldth; deduct the number of dents for gclredncs and 
divide by the number of dents per pattern. 

Example. A cloth is required to be 32 inches wide 
and woven in a 90 sley reed; there are 48 dents per 



40 Practical Cottox Calculations 

]);ittern. Allowing 16 dents for selvedges, how many 
patterns will there be? 

PO sley reed -=- 2 =: 45 dents per inch. 

4.> X 'i- = 1440 total dents in warp. 

1440 — 16 dents for selvedges r= 1424 dents. 

14-24 dents 

= '29 patterns -f 3-3 dents, 



48 dents per pattern 



Ana. 



To Find Percentage of Size on Warp Yarns. 

Rule 27. Deduct the weirfhf of the yarn before 
i^hituj from the weight of the yarn after shing ; add two 
ciphers to the ansiver, or multiply by 100> and divide by 
the weiyht of the nnsized yarn. 

FiXA:\iPLE. A warp weighs 140 pound-; after sizing 
and 130 pounds before sizing. AVhat ]^ercentage of size 
has been added? 

140—130 = 10; 10X100 = 1000. 
1000 -f- 130 ■:= 7.69 i^eroentage of size, An.'i. 

To Find Weisfht of Warp, in Ounces, per 
Yard of Cloth. 

'•'Rule 28. Divide the number of en(U in the warp 
by .7?..7 and the counts. 

(840 yards ~ 16 ozs. = 52.5) 

Example. A warp contains 3200 ends of 60's yarn. 
What is the weight per yard, in ounces? 

3200 ends 

= 1.016 ozs., ^ ??.<?. 



5.2.5 X 60's counts 



Practical Cottox Catcutatio^s 41 

WARP AND FILLING CALCALATIONS 

After finding: the number of yarcU per lb. from a 
small piece of cloth it is sometimes necessary^ 

To Find the Counts from the Weight of a 
Few Inches of Yarn. 

For this purpose use — 

^'Rule 29. ^luJtlpIji the nvmher of inches of yarn 
that tvehfh 1 c/i-ain hi/ .2S1',. (See constants.) 

Example. 170 inches of yarn weigh 1 grain. "What 
are the counts? 

1 :0 inches X .3.'^14 = 39.338\s counts, Ans, 

To Find Weight of Warp or Weight of Fill- 
ing per Cut when Weight of Cut, % 
Warp or 9; of Filling Are Known. 

Rule 30. Multipiji the veUiht of the cut hif % v'a)y 
to find the weight of the tcarp. 

Deduct the weight of the warp from the weight of the 
cut to find the weight of the fiUing. 

Example. A cut of cloth weighs 6 lbs. and contains 
^o% warp. What are the separate weights of warp and 
filling? 

G lbs. X .>'55 = 3.30 lbs. warp, A as. 

G lbs. — 3.S0 = J.IO lbs. fillina-, A ns. . ■ 



43 Practical Cottox Calcui^vtions 

Example No, -2. A cut of cloth weighs 8 lbs. and 
contains 47% filling. What are the separate weights of 
filling and warp? 

8 lbs. X .47 — 3.76 lbs. filling, A ns. 
8 lbs. — 3.76 := 4.24 lbs. warp, Aug. 

To Find Weig^ht of Warp or Filling; Required 
per Day when Number of Yards per 
Pound, Production and ' o of Warp Are 
Known. 

Hule 31. Divide (he niDnber of i/anh per day by 
the number of yards per pound to find number of pounds 
of cloth per day. 

Multiply the number of lbs. per day by (he ^c of warp 
to find the weight of xcarp. 

Deduct the weiyht of the warp from the fofai weight 
to find the weight of the fUJing. 

This does not allow for waste, which mu^t he added. 

Example. A cloth 6iA yards ])er pound is produced 
from a loom at the rate of 39 yards per day. 55% of it 
is warp. What weight of warp and filling is required 
per day? 

39 -^ 6Vo = 6 lbs. of cloth i)er day. 

6 lbs. X .55 = 3.30 lbs. warp per day, Ans. 

6 lbs. — 3.30 = x\70 His. filling per day, Anf<. 



Practical Cottox Calculation's 43 

FILLING CALCULATIONS 

To Find Number of Hanks of Filling in a 
Piece of Cloth when Pick, Width in Reed 
and Cloth Length Are Known. 

*Rule 32. Multiphj the pick by the width of the 
icarp in the reed and the cloth length, and divide by 
S4O. 

See tables on pages 80 and 81. 

ExA3iPLE. A cloth is made 100 X 1-0, 33 inches wide 
and 50 yards long. How many hanks of filling does it 
contain? 

By Rule G3 a 100 sley cloth S2 inches wide would be 
woven 34 inches wide in the reed. 

1-20 pick X 34 inches X 50 vards 

^ = 24.2.S hanks of filling, 

840 , 

To Find Length of Cloth that can be Woven 
with a Given Counts and Weight of Fill- 
ing when Width in Reed and Pick Are 
Known. 

'■'Rule 33. Multiply the counts by 84O and the 
weiyht, and divide by the pick and the width of the 
warp in the reed. 

ExA^iPi.E. 7. .5 lbs. of 70's filling is on hand to insert 
into a cloth to be woven 40 inches wide in the reed with 
220 picks per inch. What length of cloth can be woven 
with it? 

70's counts X 840 X T.5 lbs. 

-— rrr 50.11 Tards, Ans. 

220 picks X 40 inches in reed 



44 Practical Cottox Calculatioxs 

To Find Weight of Filling Required per Cut 
when Width in Reed, Pick, Cloth Length 
and Filling Counts Are Known. 

'■'Rule 34. Multlphf width in reed in inches hij pick 
and length of cloth in j/ardff, and divide 67 S^o and the 
counts. 

If the Aveig:ht in ounces N desired, multiply the result 
by 16. 

ExA3iPT.E. A cloth is desired 56 yards long-, with 2-20 
picks of 70\s filling. The width in the reed is 40 inches. 
How many pounds of filling are required? 

40 inches X --0 picks X ->6 yards 

= 8.38 Ib'^. A ns. 



840 X 70's filling counts 

When estimating the weight of filling required for 
stop peg checks, the civerarie pick, not the ground pick, 
must be considered. 

To Find Weight of Each Separate Color of 
Filling in Ginghams, Tartans and Similar 
Check Patterns. 

*Rule 35. Miilliphi the total ireiyht of fillinf/ (See 
Rule 34) bi/ the number of picks per pattern of ths 
required color, and divide bij the total number of picks 
per pattern. 

ExA^iPLK. Supposing the pattern of the filling in the 
preceding example contains 4 picks of twist, 16 picks of 
l>lack and 2\ picks of white, liow many pounds of each 
color are required for each cut of cloth? 



Practical Cottox Calculations 45 

4 + 16 -f- 24 zrr 44 picks per pattern. 

8.38 X 4 

=: ,7618 pounds twist, A ns. 



.44 
8.38 X 16 
44 

8.38 X 24 

44 



3.0472 pounds black, Ans. 
: 4..5709 pounds white, Ans. 



Total, 8.3799 pounds. 

1 1 the number of picks of each color, as in this 
example, bear a direct proportion to 1, and to each 
other, the problem may be simplified in the following 
manner: 4, 16 and -!4 are in the same proportion as 1, 
4 and 6. 

1-1-4+6 = 11 

8.38 X 1 

- = .761!^ }^Gunds twist, A ns. 



11 

.7618 X 4 r= 3.0472 pounds black, Ans. 
.7618 X 6 = 4.5708 pounds white, Ans. 



Total, S.3798 pounds. 

To Find Weight of Each Separate Count or 
Kind of Filling in Embossed Fabrics such 
as Welts, Piques, Quilts, etc. 

'"Rule 36. Miilliplii v-'hith in reed by pick, length of 
cloth in ifai'ds and number of picks of required counts 
per filling pattern, and divide by S40, counts of filUng, 
and nambfr of picks iu the filling pattern. 



46 Practtcal Cotton Calcul^^tioxs 

Example. If it is desired to weave a cut of Mar- 
seilles quilts, Avhat weight of each kind of filling will be 
required if the cloth is made to the following particulars: 
width in reed, 96 inches; pick, 162; cut length, 30 yards; 
filling pattern, 2 picks of lO's and 4 picks of 50's alter- 
nately, 6 picks completing the round? 

96 X 16:2 X 30 X 2 

=2 18.5 lbs. of lO's, Ans. 

840 X 10 X 6 

96 X 162 X 30 X 4 

=: 7.4 lbs. of oO's, A7iff. 

840 X 50 X ^ 

To find counts of filling required the following factors 
must be dealt with: number of yards per pound, cloth 
or cut length, slashing length of each warp used, warp 
counts, number of ends of each counts, % of size or 
dressing on warp yarns, picks per inch and width in reed, 
therefore— 

To Find Counts of Filling Required in Any 
Cloth Use— 

''^Rule 37. Divide the number of yards jjer cut by 
the number of yards per pound. 

This gives the weight of the cut in pounds. 

Multiply the number of ends of each counts by ilif> 
slashing length per cut of the respective warps and 
divide by 84O and the counts; add a certain % for size, 
if necessary. 

This gives the weight of the warp yarns. 

Deduct the weight of the warp from the weight of the 
cut. 

This gives the weight of the filling. 



Practical Cottox Calculatioks 47 

M^iUiply the picks j)er inch by the width in the reed 
and the clotJi length, and divide by 84O and the weight 
of the filling. 

ExAnrpi.E. A cloth is required 76 X 80, -28 inches 
wide, 12 yards per pound, with 60's warp. Allow 3% 
for take-up and -1% for size on the warp. What counts 
of filling is required? 

Assume a certain length of cut, say 100 yards. 

100 yard cut ^- 12 yards per lb. = 8.5 lbs., weight of cut,. 
76 sley X -8 inches = 212S ends -|- 3-3 for selvedges =^ 

3160 ends. 

100 yard cut + 3% = 103 yards, slashing length. 

G 160 ends X 103 yards 



=. 4.41 lbs. warp. 

840 X 60's counts , ^ , 0/ • 

.1* =4% size. 

4.58 lbs. warp and 

size; this is considered warp. 

The preceding might have been done in one problem 
by adding the 4% for size to the slashing length, and 
using 107 instead of 103. 

8.5 lbs. weight of cut 
4.58 lbs. weight of warp 

3.92 lbs. weight of filling 

76 sley X 2S inches wide 

— = 1064 dents in reed. 

2 ends per dent, 

1064 dents 



59.8 inches 



35.71 dents per inch in a 76 sley reed width in reed. 



48 Practical Cotton Calculations 

80 picks per in. X :29.8 in. X 100 yds. 



=r 72A's fillins 



840 X 3.9;3 lbs. fillinff '^ . ^ . 

» required, Ans. 

If more than one warp counts is used, or more than 
one beam, each one must be considered sej)arately. 

Cotton ply yarns are not usually >.ized. 

To Find Counts of Filling Required when 
Sley, Pick, Warp Counts and Average 
Counts Are Known. 

Rule 38. Divide the sum of the slcij and pick h'f 
the averaye counts = A. 

Divide sletf hi/ warp counts = B. 
Deduct B. from A. = C. 
Divide pick Iji/ C. ==: A us. 

Example. A cloth is desired Ob' X 100. Tlie average 
counts necessary is S4.6's and the warp counts on hand 
T4's. What counts of fillino- must be used? 

9(} sley + 100 pick = 19(). 
196 -^ 84.6 average counts = ;2.316 = A. 
96 sley -f- 74 warp counts = 1.297 = B, 

;2.316— 1.297= 1.01 9 rrrC. 

100 pick -:- 1.019 r= 98Vs filling- required, A ns. 
The aliove rule will also apply — 

To Find Warp Counts 

if the filling coimts are known, by substituting sley /or 
pick, and filling for warp. 



Practjcal Cotton Calculations 49^ 

To Find Counts of Filling Required when 
Sley, Pick, Cloth Width, Warp Counts 
and Yards per Pound Are Known. 

'•'Rule 39. Divide I64 (see constants) by the cloth 
icidth and number of yards per pound^=J. 

Divide sley by ivarp counts = B. 

Deduct B. from A. = C. 

Divide pick by C. = Ans. 

Example. A cloth is desired 96 X 100, .SO inches wide, 
11 yards per lb.; tlie warp counts on hand are T't's. What 
counts of filling is required? 
764 

30 inches X H yards per lb. 

96 sley -^ 74's warp counts ^=z 1.297 = B. 

2.315 — 1.297 = 1.018 = C. 
lUO pick -^ 1.018 = 98's filling required. Jns. 

To Find Counts of Filling Required in a Cloth 
Containing 2 Different Counts of Filling 
Yarn when Average Counts of Filling, 
Counts of 1 Filling, Number of Picks of 
each Kind and Total Number of Picks per 
Pattern Are Known. 

Rule 40. Divide the total number of picks per pat- 
tern by (he average counts of the filling =A. 

Divide the number of p>icks of the known counts of 
filliny by the latter = B. 

Deduct B. from A.=^C. 

Divide the number of picks of the required counts by 
C^Ans. 



50 Practical Cottox Caixilattoxs 

Example. A filling check pattern is arranged 38 
picks of coarse and 360 picks of fine filling. The average- 
counts of the filling required is 46.6, and the counts of 
the coarse filling 15. What is the counts of fine filling 
required ? 

360 + 38 = 398 total picks. 
398 -=- 46.6 = 8.540 = A. 
38^15 — 2.533 = B. 

6.007 = C. 
360 -^ 6.007 = 60's fine filling required, Ana. 

To Find the Average Counts of Filling in a 
Cloth Containing 2 or more Counts of 
Filling. 

Hule 41. Divide the number of picks of each counts 
per pattern by its oxen counts; add the results and diride 
into the total number of pricks per pattern. 

Exa3iple. a cloth contains 38 picks of 15's and 360 
picks of 60's filling in one pattern. What is the average 
counts of the filling? 

38 picks -^ 15's counts = 3.533 
360 picks -^ 60's counts = 6. 



398 8.533 

398 -^ 8.533 = 46.64 average counts, Ans. 



CLOTH CALCULATIONS 



AVERAGE COUNTS OF YARN IN THE 

CLOTH 

Cotton cloths are based on the number of yards pei» 
lb. with a given width, sley and pick. 

It is customary, first, to find the average coimts of 
yarn in the cloth and then to assume the counts of warp. 

In coarse grades of cloth the warp and filling are 
about equal, whilst in the finer grades the filling is con- 
siderably finer than the warp. 

In all average counts of yarn calculations the number 
of single yarns are considered; for example, 50 ends of 
3/x?4's would be considered loO ends of 34's single, not 50 
ends of 8's. 

To Find Average Counts of Yarn in a Piece of 
Cloth when Ends in Warp, Pick, Width 
in Reed and Number of Yards per Pound 
Are Known. 

Assume a certain length of cut and apply — 

'''Rule 42. Divide lern/th of cut by number of yards 
•per 'pound. 

This gives weight of cut. 

Multiply the number of ends by the slashing length. 

This gives length of warp, to which a certain % must 
be added for size, if the latter is used; consider size as 
varn. 



52 Practical Cotton Caixulatioxs 

Multiphf the pick by the width in the reed and the 
cloth or cut length. 

This gives length of filling. 

Add length of warp to length of filling and divide by 
S40 and weight of ciit = Ans. 

ExA^iPLE. A cloth contains 300 ends of 3/20's, 200 
ends of 4/08's and i?400 ends of 40's, 80 picks per inch. 
It was woven 32 inches wide in reed, and weighs 4.3:3 
yards per pound. Allow 30% for contraction on the 
2/20's warp, 15% on the 4/28's warp, and 10% for con- 
traction and size on the 40's warp. What are the average 
counts ? 

Assume a 100 yard cut. 
100 yards cloth -~ 4.52 yards per lb. = 22.12 lbs., 

weight of cut. 
300 ends of 2/20's = 600 ends. 
200 ends of 4/28's = 800 ends. 
2400 ends of 40's = 2400 ends. 

600 ends X 120 yards = 72000 yards 20's 

800 ends X 115 yards — 92000 yards 28's 

2400 ends X 1 10 yards — 264000 yards 40's 

80 pick X 32 in. X 100 yds. = 256000 yds. filling 

684000 yards, total 

length of yarn. 

684000 yards 

— — :; = 36.8 average counts, A ns. 

840 X 22.12 lbs. ^ 

To Find Average Counts of Yarn in a Piece 
of Cloth when Sley, Pick, Width and 
Yards per Pound Are Known. 

'•'Rule 43. Add sley and pick together; multiply 
result by width and yards per pound, and divide by S40. 



Practical Cottox Calcllatioxs 53 

Tliis rule does not make any allowance for size or 
contraction. (See Rule 44.) 

Example. A cloth is made 96 X 100, 30 inches wide, 
and weighs 13 yards per lb. What are the average 
counts' 

100 + 96 = 196' 

196 X 30 inches X 13 yards 

' = 84 av. counts, A ns. 

840 

To Find Average Counts of Yarn in a Cloth 
when Sley, Pick, Width and Number of 
Yards per Pound Are Known. 

'•'Rule 44. Mtiltl'phf the sum of the sley and iJick by 
the ivldth and mimber of yards per pomuL and divide by 
764' (See constants.) 

This rule allows 10% for contraction and size. (See 
Rule 43.) 

Example. A cloth 96 X --0, 40 inches wide, weighs 
3.6 yards per pound. AVhat is the average counts of the 
yarn? 

96 sley + 330 pick z= 316 

316 X 40 inches X 3.6 yards per lb. 



i64 



59.5 av. counts, Ans. 



To Find Average Counts of Yarn in a Cloth 
when Sley, Pick and Counts of Warp and 
Filling Are Known. 

Rule 45. Divide sley by irarp counts and pick by 
fiUlny counts. Add results and divide into sum of sley 
and pick. 



54 Practical Cotton Calculations 

Example. A cloth 96 X -~0 is made with 45's warp 
and 70's filling. "What is the average counts of the yarn? 

96 sley -^ 45's counts = ;?. 13 
•220 pick ^ TO's counts == 3.14 

316 0.27 

316 -=- 5.27 = 60's average counts, Ans. 

The preceding rules, 43, 44, 45, may be used — 

To Find Average Counts of Yarn in a Cloth 
when Only One Warp Counts Is Used in 
a Cramped Stripe, 

by substituting "average sley" for "sley." 

To Find Average Counts of Yam in a Cloth 
Containing More than One Counts of 
Warp Yam, when Width, Warp Counts, 
Number of Ends of Each Counts in 
Warps, Pick and Filling Counts Are 
Known. 

Rule 46. Miilllphj the pick bif the cloth xoidth:=^ 
D wide A bi/ the fillinf/ counts =^ B. 
Divide the number of ends of each counts by its oxen 
counts =: C. 

Total number of ends = D. 

Divide sum of A and D by sum of B and C=:Ans. 

Example. A cloth is made as follows: 80 ends ot 
3/30's, 2200 ends of 60's, 100 picks of 75's filling, 30 
inches wide. What is the average counts of the yarns? 
80 ends of 3/30's = 240 ends of 30's 



Practical Cottox Calculatioxs 55 



i\ 



100 picks X 30 inches = 3000 = A 
3000 -^ 75 = 40 = B 
;.'40 -7- 30 == 8 =C 
2200-^60 = 36.66 = 
^40 + 2200 = 2440 = D 

3000 + 2440 = 5440 
40 + 8 + 36.66 = 84.66 
5440 -f- 84.66 = 64 average counts, A ns. 

Rule 46 assumes a normal contraction in Icngtii and 
width. If the cloth is a leno, lappet or any style where 
excessive rate of contraction occurs on some ends, an 
allowance must be made for the same. For example, it 
it was necessary to allow say 140 yards of 3/30's warp in 
the preceding example for 100 yards of cloth. /. c, to 
add 40%, the first part of C would be worked out as 
follows : 

240^30 = 8; 8 + 40%r=11.2 

The average counts in this case would of course be 
different from the answer to the preceding example. 
Another rule dealing with the same factors is — • 

Rule 47. Divide the average sletj by the avera(/e 
warp coaufs ami the pick by the fiUiny counts; add th& 
results and divide into the su7n of the average shy and 
the pick. 

The average sley may be found by Rule 51. 

The average warp counts may be found by Rule 20. 

Example. A cloth is made as follows: 80 ends of 
3/30's, 2200 ends of 60's, 100 picks of 75's filling, 30 
inches wide. What is the average counts of the yarns ? 



Practical Cottox Calculations 

80 ends of 3/30's = 240 ends of 30's 

040 ^ 0^00 = 2440 total ends 

2440 ends -^ 30 inches = 81.333 a v. sley 

240 ends + 30's counts = 8 
2200 ends -- 60's connts = 3dM6 



2440 44.666 

2440 ends -f- 44.666 = o4.6's av. warp counts 
81.333 av. sley -=- 54.6's av. warp =rr 1.489 
100 pick H- 75's filling =1.333 

181.333 2.822 

181.333 -=- 2.822 = 64's average counts, Ans. 

To Find the Average Counts of Yam in a 
Cloth when % Warp, 9v Filling and 
Counts of Warp and Filling Are Known. 

Rule 48. Multiph/ the % icarp by the warp counis 
and the % filUng hi/ the jiUiiKj counts; add the products. 

Example. A cloth of which 54% of the material is 
warp and 46% filling is made with 50's warp and 60's 
filling. "What is the average counts of the yarn? 



54% X 50's warp counts = 27. 
46% X 60's filling counts =: 27. 

Average counts, 54.60's, Am 



.00 
.60 



ExA:\rPLE. What is the average counts of the single 
yarns in a cloth which 24% of the yarn is 3/20's warp, 
14% is 4/28's warp, 37% is 40's warp, and 25% is 50's 
fillino-? 



Practical Cotton Calculations 57 

^4% X 50's warp counts = 4.80 
14% X A?8's warp counts = 3.9-3 
37% X 40's warp counts = 14.80 
^3o% X .'jO's fiUino- counts r= 13.50 

Avernge count'^, 3b'. 03, Aus. 

To Find Average Counts of Yarn from a 
Small Piece of Cloth 

"'Rule 49, ^lulfiplif ihe sum of the sl'fif and jj'ick by 
the mi):iber of square indies weUjhed and bif 7000, anct 
divide by the weight in (/rains, bi/ SG and 764. (See con- 
stants.) 

In this rule 7000, 3() nnd 7G4 are constant factors — 

7000 

= .354 



36 X 764 



therefore the 36 and 764 can be dispensed with and .354 
iLsed instead of 7000, o;ivlng— 

"'^Rule 50. MultipJi/ the sum of the slei/ and jyick by 
the number of square inches iceirjhed and by .254 «"-^ 
divide by the xveiyht in c/rains. 

Example. 4 sq. inclies of a piece of cloth 96X3;?0 
weighs 5.4 grains. What are the average counts of the 
yarn? 

96 + 330 r= 316 

316 X 4 sq. in. X .354 

-— j9,i.5 -xv. counts, Ans. 

5,4 



58 PnACTicAi. CoTTOX Cai.ci:latjons 

AVERAGE COUNTS OF CLOTH 

To Find Average Sley when Number of Ends 
in Warp and Width of Cloth Are Known. 

Rule 51. Divide the number of ends by the width. 

Example, A cloth 3J inches wide contains :2-2iO ends. 
What is the averag:e sley? 

x?i?40 ends -4- 3 J in. = 70 average sley, ^Ins. 

In finding average sleys, ply yarns are counted as the 
number of single yarns there are twisted together; -200 
3-ply yarns would he counted as 600 singles. 

Example. A cloth -28 inches wide contains >0<)0 ends 
of single yarn and i^'o ends of 4 -ply cord yarn. What is 
the average sley? 

36 X -i = 1+4 single strands in the 36 ply yarn<. 

144 -f ^^000 =: 2144 total ends. 
;i?144 ends -^ -28 in. = 76..57 average sley, J nK. 

To Find Averag-e Sley in an Unequally Reeded 
Stripe when Actual Sley and Warp Lay- 
out Are Given. 

Rule 52. MtiJfipJif the number of ends per pattern 
by one half of the sley and divide by the number of dents 
per pattern. 

Example. The warji ]iattern in a piece of cloth con- 
tains TO ends and occujiies 16 dents of a .56 sley reed. 
What is the average sley? 

70 ends X 28 (\. of sley reed) 

■ — — = 122.3 av. slev, A ns. 

16 dents in one pattern 



Practical Cotton Calculations o9 

To Find the Average Picks per Inch, when 
Check Pegs Are Used, when Number of 
Pegs, Picks per Pattern, and Number of 
Ground Picks per Inch Are Known. 

Rule 53. Deduct the number of check pecfs in one> 
repeat of the pattern from the number of picks per pat- 
tern; divide the result into picks per pattern, and multi- 
ply bif the picks per inch that the loom would put in if 
check pe(js were not used. 

ExA3iPLE. A check pattern 196 picks per pattern, 
requiring 64 check pegs, is being woven with a pinion 
gear that would give 84 picks per inch if check pegs were 
not used. What is the average pick? 

196 picks per pattern — 64 check pegs ^=z 1^2 
196 ^ 13;J — 1.484 X 84 rrr 124.65 average pick, Ans. 

The above rule assumes J tooth to he taken vp every 
pick. If a loom that takes up every 2 picks is used, 
multiply the number of check pegs by 2 and proceed as 
above. 

To Find the Average Picks per Inch, when 
Check Pegs Are Used, when Number of 
Picks per Pattern and Size of Pattern 
Are Known. 

Rule 54. Divide the number of picks per pattern 
by the size of the pattern. 

Example. The filling pattern in a cloth measures 
1% inches, and contains 160 picks. What is the average 
pick ? 

160 picks -~ 1.375 inches = 116 av. pick, .ins. 



60 Practical Cotton Calculations 

"NVhen measuring the size of the pattern, it is advisable 
to use a rule graded in tenths and twentieths of an inch. 
(See page 73). 

Rule 54, substituting the word ends for picks, ma}' be 
applied — 

To Find the Average Sley. 

In dealing with average pick when figuring produc- 
tion, every time the shuttle goes across is termed one 
pick, whether carrying single or ply yarns. It will be 
necessary to consider this only on box loom patterns. 



CALCULATIONS FOR CHECK PEG 
PATTERNS 

See also "Average counts of cloths/' 

To Find the Number of Ground Picks per 
Inch in a Cloth, when the Average Pick, 
Number of Teeth Used per Pattern, and 
the Number of Picks per Pattern Are 
Known. 

Rule 55. Miilt'ipiii the average pick Jnj the number' 
of teeth used in one repeat of the pattern, and hif 2 (if 
the loom takes up evt^ri/ 2 2)icks), and divide hv the picks 
per pattern. 

ExA3iPLE. A check pattern 196 picks to one repeat 
takes up 66 teeth, in a loom that takes up 1 tooth in 2 
picks; the average pick is l:?4.6o. "What is the number 
of ground picks per inch? 

124.65 av. pick X dQ teeth X 2 

= 83.9 ground picks 

196 picks per pattern ^^^^ i^^,^ j^ ,^ ^. 



Practtcai. Cottox Caixulatioxs 61 

To Find Number of Check Pegs to Use per 
Pattern when Ground Pick, Average Pick 
and Size of Pattern Are Known. 

Rule 56. Deduct the ground pick from the average 
pick and mulflplg the re,sult by the she of the pattern in 
inches. 

This rule assumes 1 tooth to 1 pick. If one tooth is 
taken up every -2 picks, divide the result by 2. 

Example, A cloth is made with a pattern ly^ inches j 
the ground pick is 84- and the average pick 134. How 
many check pegs must be used per pattern, assuming 2 
picks to 1 tooth? 

1:24 average pick 
S4 ground pick 

40 

40 X 1..J = GO ; 60 -^ ;? r=r 30 pegs required, Ans. 

To Find Number of Check Pegs to Use in a 
Pattern when Ground Pick, Average Pick 
and Number of Picks per Pattern Are 
Known. 

Rule 57. Multiplg the nrnnher of picks per pattern 
bif the number of ground picks per inch and divide bij 
the. average pick. Deduct result from number of picks 
per pattern = Ans. 

This rule assumes I tooth to 1 pick. If 1 tooth i* 
taken up every 2 picks, divide result by 2. 

Example. A cloth is desired 98 average pick and TO 
pick, assuming 1 tooth take-up to 1 pick. There are 40 
picks per pattern. How many check pegs per pattern 
must be used? 



65 Practical Cotton Calculatioks 

40 picks per pattern X "'0 ground pick 



98 average pick 



= 38.57 



40 picks per pattern — 38.57 = 11.43, say 11 teeth 
stopped, Ans. 

If the take-up of the above example had been 2 picks. 
to 1 tooth, 6 teeth per pattern would have to be stopped. 



CLOTH CONTRACTION 

There are two things to be remembered when dealing 
with cloth calculations: 

First, the cloth is always shorter than the warp from 
which it was woven, due to the take-up by its being bent 
around the filling. 

Second, the cloth is always narrower than the warp 
is spread in the reed. 

Although rules that have been proven practical may 
be given to find the different items necessary for the 
reproduction of a piece of cloth, it must be understood 
that only approximate results can be obtained. 

The cloths from two looms working side by side may 
and do ])roduce cloths that vary either in length or 
width, or both, under apparently the same conditions. 

If a correct percentage is not allowed for contraction 
in width, two faults occur in the cloth: 

First, the cloth does not come out the desired width. 

Second, the correct slev is not obtained. 



Practical Coii'ox Calculatioxs 



63 



The following: factors will modify to some extent the 
amount of contraction in length or width from warp to 
cloth. 

The Weave. The oftener the interlacing's the more 
the shrinkage. For example, a plain cloth which 2nter' 



Fig. 1. 




•fff,:)M>j)).'}}}>J}JJJf 



©^©#© © © 




®#@ 



Fiff 9. 



laces as shown in Fig. 1 will require a longer warp than 
a 5 end warp sateen shown in Fig. -3 to produce a cloth 
of the same length, provided an equal number of picks 
per inch are used in each. The circles in Figs. 1 and 3 
represent picks. 

If some ends weaving a sateen stripe were run from 
the same beam as other ends weaning plain, all being 
reeded :2 in a dent, the end^ weaving plain would take up 
faster than the sateen portion and either break by an 
excess of ten>ion or cause the sateen ends to weave slack 
and be l)roken by the shuttle, but if the sateen was 
reeded 4- or 5 in a dent ;ind the plain ■? in a dent the 
take-up would be about equal. 

The finer the quality and the softer the filling as com- 
pared with the warp the more will be the shrinkage in 
width. 



64 Practical Cottox Calculations 

If the filling- is hard twisted and of a coarse nature, 
or coarser than the warp, the cloth will not shrink much 
in width. 

The more tension on the war}) yarns the longer will 
be the cloth and the narrower the width, up to a certain 
limit. 

The difference in weather, .system of sizing, class of 

loom used, tension on fillini>- yarns, or sley and pick as 

compared with each otlier also varies tlx^ amount of 
shrinkage. 

The yarns in weaves of the cord type, where several 
ends or picks work together, act like coarse yarns and 
tend to retain a straight line, the oilier yarn-, doing all 
the bendinji'. 



CONTRACTION IN LENGTH FROM WARP 
TO CLOTH 

To Find Approximate % of Contraction in 
Length from Warp to Cloth. 

Rule 58. :\[u]li.plij the pick hi/ J.J and divide hi/ the 
counts of the filling. 

For cloths tcoven with coinits lower than Jn's nudtipttf 
bif 4 instead of S.o. 

Example. A plain cloth is made 100 X 1-0 with SO"s 
warp and 90's filling, "What would be the approximate 
% of contraction in length from Avarp to cloth? 

1^0 picks X 3.5 

. = 4 -2-3% contraction, An& 

90's fillinc; 



Practical Cottojc Calculations 65 

To Find Length of Warp Required for a 
Given Length of Cloth in Lenos, Lappets, 
Fancy Combinations, and all Cloths where 
Some Ends Take up Considerably Faster 
than Others. 

Rule 59. Measure a certain length of chjfh = A. 

Unravel the ends required and measure th( m = B. 

Multiply the lenfjth of cloth desired by B and divide 
by A = Ans. 

Example. The yarns from a cloth o inches long 
measure 5i/, inches. How many yards of warp would be 
required for a oO yard cut of cloth? 

5.3 in. X 50 yards 

— = 55 yards, A ns. 

5 m. 

Where there is considerable difference in the iake-up 
of the ends in a cloth, two or more warp beam^ should 
be used. 



REED CALCULATIONS 

The four following examples are given to illustrate 
how the shrinkages in width vary in cloths of different 
structure. 

Sample Xo. 1. 63 sley X 33 pick, 90's warp and 140's 
filling, plain weave, 40 inches in the reed, gives 39 inches 
cloth. 

The reed width here is almost 3% more than I he cloth 
width. The reason for this small contraction is on 



66 Practical Cottox Cat.culations 

account of the small number of picks as compared to 
sley. 

Sample No. 2. 48 X 1^8, 3/40's warp and 48*s filling, 
31% inches in the reed gives 28 inches cloth. 

The reed width here is over 11% more than the cloth 
width. This excessive contraction is caused by the large 
pick, as compared to sley. 

Sample No. 3. 64 X 40, 48's warp and 15's filling, 33 
inches in the reed gives 33 inches cloth. 

The reed width here is 3%% more than the cloth 
^vidth. 

Sample No. 4. 88 X 50, 48's warp and 2/15\s filling, 
34 inches in the reed gives 331/, inches cloth. 

The reed width here is iyo% more than the cloth 
width. 

The small contraction in Samples 3 and 4 is caused 
by the light pick and the heavy filling. 

The samples j ust noted are unusual structures of cloth, 
and are only mentioned to show how the contraction in 
width varies in amount. 

The following rules relating to contraction in width 
are approximately correct, for cloths where the sley 
and pick, and warp and filling, are nearly equal. 

It is usually understood when dealing with reed and 
sley calculations that 2 ends in each dent are intended, 
imless otlierwise stated. 

For certain reasons cloths are sometimes woven with 
only one end in a dent; at other times they are woven 3 
or more ends in a dent. 



Practical Cottox Calculations 



6T 



To Find Number of Dents per Inch in Reed 
to Produce a Given Sley. 

Rule 60. Deduct 1 from the slei/ and divide by 
of the folloic-ing numbers: 



one 



Ends per dent in reed. 

1 

o 



Divide by number. 
1.05 
3.1 
3.15 
4.3 



Example. Find the number of dents per inch in the 
reed to give a 100 sley cloth by having 1, 2, 3 or 4 ends 
per dent. 



Ends per 






dent 




Constant Dent per 


in reed 


Sley. 


divisor, in. in reed. 


1 


100 — 1 z= 99 


99 -f- 1.05 = 94.28 ^n*. 


3 


100 — 1 — 99 


99-- 3.1 =^l.UAns. 


3 


100 — 1 = 99 


99 -f- 3.15 = 31.43^^5. 


4 


100 — 1=99 


; 99-^-4.3 = 33.57 ^/js. 



See table on following page. 



68 



Practical Cottox Calculations 



Table showing number of dents per inch in the reed 
to produce any even numbered sley from 48 to 132. 





DENTS PER INCH IN REED 


SLEY 












1 End per 


2 Ends per 


3 Ends per 


4 Ends per 




Dent 


Dent 


1)ENT 


Dent 


48 


44.76 


22.38 


14.92 


11.19 


50 


46.66 


23.33 


15.55 


11.66 


52 


48.56 


24.28 


16.19 


12.14 


54 


50.48 


25.24 


16 83 


12.62 


56 


52.38 


26.19 


17.46 


13.09 


58 


54.28 


27.14 


18.09 


13.57 


60 


56.18 


28.09 


lf^.73 


14.04 


62 


58.10 


29.05 


19.03 


14.52 


64 


60.00 


30.00 


20.00 


15.00 


66 


61.90 


30.95 


20.63 


15.47 


68 


63.82 


31.91 


21.27 


15.95 


70 


65.72 


32.86 


21.91 


16.43 


72 


67.64 


33.82 


22.55 


16.91 


74 


69.52 


34.76 


23.17 


17.38 


76 


71.42 


35.71 


23.81 


17.85 


78 


73.32 


36.66 


24.44 


18.33 


80 


75.24 


37.62 


25.08 


18.81 


82 


77.18 


38.59 


25.73 


19.29 


84 


79.04 


39.52 


26.35 


19.76 


86 


80.96 


40.48 


26.99 


20.24 


88 


82.86 


41.43 


27.65 


20.71 


90 


84.76 


42. .38 


28.2.5 


21.19 


92 


86.68 


43.34 


28.89 


21.67 


94 


88.58 


44.29 


29.53 


22.14 


96 


90.50 


45.25 


30.17 


22 62 


98 


92.40 


46.20 


30.80 


23.10 


100 


&4.'28 


47.14 


3143 


23.57 


102 


96.20 


48.10 


32.07 


24.05 


104 


98.12 


49.06 


32.91 


24.53 


106 


100.00 


50.00 


33.33 


25.00 


108 


101.90 


50.95 


33.97 


25.47 


110 


103.80 


51.90 


34.60 


25.95 


112 


ia5.72 


52.86 


35.24 


26.43 


114 


107.62 


53.81 


35.87 


26.90 


116 


109 52 


54.76 


36.51 


27.38 


118 


111.42 


55.71 


37.14 


27.85 


120 


113. .32 


56.66 


37.77 


28.33 


122 


115.24 


57.62 


38.41 


28.81 


124 


117.14 


58.57 


3^05 


29.28 


126 


119.04 


59.52 


39.68 


29.76 


128 


120.95 


60.47 


40.32 


;^.24 


130 


122.85 


61.43 


40.95 


30.71 


132 


124.76 


62.38 


41.59 


31.19 



Practical Cottox CATXin.ATio>'s 69 

There are various methods of marking reeds adopted 
in the cotton trade, three of which are as follows: 1st — 
By indicating the total dents on a certain number of 
inches. x?nd — By marking the sley on the side of the 
reed, 3rd — By marking the number of dents per inch. 
Sometimes reeds are marked by combinations of the 
above methods. If the number of dents on a certain 
number of inches are known it is only necessary to 
divide the total dents by the number of inches to find the 
number of dents per inch. 

To Find Sley that would be Woven with a 
Reed of a Given Number of Dents per inch. 

Rule 61. Midtipf}/ the number of deuts per inch by 
one of the foUovnng numbers and add one: 

Ends per dent in reed. Multiply by numiber. 

1 l.Oo 

o o I 

3 3.15 

4 4.2 

Example. What sley cloth would l>e woven with a 
reed containing 40 dents per inch, with 2 ends per dent? 

40 dents X^-l—^ 
84 + 1 = 8j sley cloth, Ans. 

To Find Sley Reed to Use for Unequally 
Reeded Patterns such as Bedford Cords, 
Lenos, Dimities, Stripes, etc. 

Rule 62. MuUiply the desired averaf/e sley by the 
number of dents per pattern and by 2, and divide by the 
number of ends per pattern. 



70 Practical Cottox CALcruvTioxs 

Example No. 1. A warp pattern in a piece of cloth 
is found to be reeded 2 ends in 1 dent, \-2 ends in 3 dents, 
and there are 8 patterns in 1 inch. "What sley reed 
should be used to reproduce it? 

14 ends per pattern X 8 patterns per inch = 11:3 aV' 
erage sley. 

11;2 X 4 dents per patt. X - 

• =: 64 slev reed, A ns. 

14 ends per patt. 

ExA3iPLE Xo. 2. It is desired to make a cloth 125 
average sley, with the warp reeded 64 single ends in 3i? 
dents; 4 singles and a 3-ply yarn in 1 dent, 2 empty 
dents, 4 singles and a 3-ply yarn in 1 dent. What sley 
reed should be used? 

3-ply yarns count as 3 singles in considering the av- 
erage sley. 

155 av. sley X 35 dents per patt. X 2 

■ :; =112 sley reed, A ns. 

78 ends per patt. 

To Find Width of Warp at the Reed when 
Width of Cloth and Sley Are Known. 

Rule 63. Multiply the width of the cloth by the sley 
and divide by the number of dents per inch in reed and 
the number of ends per dent. 

See reed table on page 68. 

Example. It is desired to weave an 88 sley cloth 3-3 
inches wide. How wide should the warp be spread in 
the reed? 

An 88 sley cloth, 2 ends per dent, would be woven in 
a reed with 41.43 dents per inch. 
33 inches X 88 sley 

.1 .a A I '• '• ~t ^ = 33.98 in., sav 34 in., Ans, 

41.43 dents per m. m reed X 5 "' 



Practical Cottox Calculations 71 

To Find Number of Dents Occupied by an 
Equally Reeded Warp. 

Rule 64. Divide the number of ends, less selvedges, 
by the number of ends per dent and add the necessanj 
number of dents for selvedges. 

Example. How many dents would be required for a 
warp of :?840 ends, -2 ends per dent, allowing -18 ends in 
1:2 dents for selvedges? 

i?S40 ends — 48 for selvedges r= 2192 ends 

;2792 -=-;?= 1396 dents 

1396 dents + \2 for selvedges = 1408 dents 



CLOTH ANALYSIS 

For the convenience of those persons wlio>e duty it 
is to analyze fancy cotton fabrics the figure at the to]-> of 
page 73, which represents a 2-inch rule graded in lOths 
and i20ths, as well as the table on the same page, have 
been inserted. 

As previously stated in this book, it is advisable to 
measure the various sections with a rule graded in lOths 
and 20ths of an inch because there are less figures than 
when using other divisions of an inch. 

A small pair of dividers should be used, when an- 
alyzing fabrics, to measure the various sections suc- 
cessively. 

If the sample is to ])e duplicated in a different sley, 
the dents in the required sley for any width of cloth 
from \/2Q inch to 1 inch may be seen in the table on 
page 73. 



I'J 



A 



Practical Cottox Calculattoxs 
B C 



D 






ii ^:« i^:^ <»:^ ^i 

^ jS;^ »•« ^:? ^i 
5» ^ii" <?:§ ?i^ ^: 



•* • Jil 



Fig 1. 



For example, suppose it is desired to make a pattern 
like Fig. I, in an 80 sley reed the procedure will be as 
follows: 

First — Measure section A, and ascertain how many 
dents are necessary'. A, in Fig 1, measures lG/20 of an 
inch. This width of an 80 sley would require 3:2 dents. 

Second — Measure each defining part of the pattern 
separately and ascertain from the table how many dents 
each section requires. B =:19/-20 of an inch = 88 
dents. C=:l()/;30 of an inch=z3;2 dents. D=iG/::0 of 
an inch :=:!:;? dents. 

Third- — Measure one complete pattern and ascertain 
how many dents are required. One pattern in Fig. 
1 =2 17-20 inchest 114 dents. 

The reason for measuring the full pattern is to prove 
that the various small sections are correct. The sum 
total of the dents in each small section in one pattern 
should be similar to that obtained by measuring a com- 
plete pattern. There is a great liability to error when 
n^easuring several small sections, but it is necessary that 
each section should be measured separately. 



Practical Cottox Caixui.ations 



73 





1 --1 y: -!< o ^1 ^ 't ^ "^i *-. t 

^ I 5 ?^ ?' M '-' ^' ■^'" -~ ^ ^- " Ct CC T -^ -f 

O uO ^'^ ^'^. ^' "■" '-'^■_'3^, 



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■ • -; -- ^ -J c^ '^ -f uc 'JD tr; 1- CO * -■ 

■ or-' I ^- *^- 1!^ ^ ^ d d -: ^ ci M « rf uc .n -£ ■£ 
-3 I ci I I- L- GO a» ^ 5 ;i U, r- ^ 



5 O J -C '^ -.C L^ L^ 00 X X o c= o o o ^^ 






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-i cJ c i CO cc cc r: CO 'T -?"-* -r ^ "'--'-' ■ 



*^:m ^ 1 _ , — . — s «*< r^ f^^J "t^ O "^ -^ ^ ' 



74 Practical Cotton Calculations 

WEIGHT, OR NUMBER OF YARDS OF 

CLOTH PER POUND, AND 

OUNCES PER YARD 

To Find Number of Ounces per Yard or 
Yards per Pound. 

Rule 65. 16-^ number of ounces per t/ard = nw7n^ 
her of yards per pound. 

16 -^ number of i/ards per pound = number of ounces 
per yard. 

To Find Number of Yards of Cloth per Pound 
from a Small Portion of Cloth when 
Analyzing Fabrics. 

Rule 66. Multiply the number of square inches 
weighed, by 7000 yrains and divide by the weight in 
grains, xcidth of cloth in inches, and by SO. 

Example. A cloth is 18.5 inches wide; 6 square inches 
weigh 8 grains. How many yards are there per pound? 

7000 grains X 6 inches 

= 7.883 yards per lb., Ans. 

8 grains X 18.5 inches X 36 

In Kule 66, 7000 and 36 are constant factors. 
7000 -=- 36= 194.44, therefore instead of the above rule 
use the following: 

For 1 square inch -^ 194.44 by weight in grains and 
cloth width. 

For 4 square inches -i- 777.77 by weight in grains and 
cloth width. 

For 9 square inches -=- 1750 by weight in grains and 
cloth width. 

For \2 square inches -f- i?3.33.33 by weight in grains 
and cloth width. 

For cloth cut to any other sii!^e use Rule 67. 



Practical Cottox Calculations 75 

To Find Number of Yards per Pound of a 
Cloth Containing Different Counts of 
Yams, or Patterns that Are Unequally 
Eeeded; 

it is necessary to cut a piece of cloth containing only 
full patterns before weighing and proceeding by — 

Rule 67. Multiply 194.44 ^11 the number of square 
inches "iveighed, and divide by the ujeight in grains and 
the width of the cloth in inches. 

ExAMPij;. .\ stripe pattern is reeded 2 ends in a 
dent for 40 ends and 4 ends in a dent for 30 ends; the 
complete pattern in the cloth measuring % of an inch. 
A piece 3 inches warpway, /. e., lengthway, and 5 pat- 
terns filling^vay weighs 6 grains. The width of the cloth 
desired is 28 inches. How many yards per pound wilJ 
the cloth weigh? 

5 patterns X % inches per pattern = 3% inches 
3% X 3 = 9% square inches weighed 

194.44 X 9.3T5 inches 

z=: 10.8.5 yards per lb., Ans. 

6 grains X '2S inches 

It is advisable to cut a certain number of patterns on 
a certain number of inches, if possible, to avoid fractions. 

To Find Number of Yards of Cloth per Pound 
when 2 or More Warps Are Used, when 
Counts and Number of Ends on Each 
Warp, Contraction of and Size on Each 
Warp, Width in Reed, Pick and Counts 
of Filling Are Known. 

Assume a certain length of cloth, say 100 yards, and 

use — 



76 PRACTrcAi, Cotton" Caixii.atioxs 

'''Rule 68. MuItipJif the ends of each counts by the 
slashing length, and divide bif 8//J and the respective 
counts; add to this for size, if necessarij. 

This gives weight of warp. 

Note. — When size is put on a war}), the contraction 
and size are usually considered together when finding 
weight. 

M'ultip]y the picks per inch by the vidth in reed and 
leuf/th of cut, and divide by S'fd and the counts of the 
filllny. 

This gives weight of filling. 

Add xt'eiyht of warp and weif/ht of filUnrf tofjether 
and divide into Jenyth of cut. = Ans. 

Example. A cloth is required ;28 inches wide, made 
with 100 ends of 3/34's, 200 ends of 4/33's, 2500 ends of 
50's and 84 picks per inch of 60's filling. Allow 5% for 
contraction on the 3/24's warp, 45% for contraction on 
the 4/32's warp, and 10% for contraction and size on 
the oO's warp. How many ya,rds of cloth will there be 
per lb.? 

Assume a 100 yard cut. 

100 ends of 3/24's = 300 ends of 24's 
200 ends of 4/28's = 800 ends of 28's 

300 ends X 105 yds. slashing length 

• ^^ '- — =1.566 lbs. of 

840 X 24's counts y^^.^ ^^^.p 

800 ends X 145 vds. slashing length 
'- = 4.315 lbs. of 

840 X 32's counts . ,r.-., 

4/32's warp 

2500 ends X HO vds. slashing length 

T-- ^7^^ — — 6.548 lbs. of 

840 X .>0 . counts 

50 s warp 



Practical Cotton Calculations 77 

For i?8 inch cloth, say 30 inches in reed, 

84 picks per in. X 30 in. X 100 yds. cut 

— = 5 lbs. of filling 

840 X 60's filling counts 

1,566 lbs. of 3/;34's warp 
4.315 lbs. of 4./3;2's warp 
6.548 lbs. of 50's warp 
5.000 lbs. of 60's filling 

17.4:29 

100 yd. cut ~- 17.429 lb^. = 5.738 yds. per lb., Ans. 

To Find Number of Yards of Cloth per Pound 
when Sley, Pick, Width and Average 
Counts Are Known. 

'■^Rule 69. Mulfi/jlif the (O'fraf/e counts bi/ 764 (see 
constants) and divide hij the -width and the sum of sJey 
end pick. 

Example. A cloth i« made 96 X 150 and is SSy. 
inches wide; the average counts is SS. How many yards 
of cloth are there in a pound? 

58 average counts X 764 

r:r 5.377 vards per lb., Ans. 

96 + 150 X 331/2 inches 

To Find Number of Yards of Cloth per Pound 
when Sley, Pick, Width, Warp and 
Filling Counts Are Known. 

'''Rule 70. Divide sley by xvarp counts = A. 

Dii'ide pick by filling counts = B. 

Add A to B=zC\ 

Divide 764 (see constants) by C and the width = 
Ans. See Rule 71. 



78 Practical Cottox Calculatioxs 

ExA3iPLE. A cloth is desired 64 X 1-4, 33'/^, inches 
wide, with SB's warp and 48's filling. How many yards 
will there be in a pound of cloth ? 

64-^-36 = 1.77 = A 

124 ^ 48 = •?.58 = B 

1.77 + 2.58 = 4.35 = 

764 

= 5.24 yards per lb., Avs. 



4.35 X 33.5 ins 

Another rule dealing; with the factors mentioned in 
the preceding example is as follows: 

*Illlle 71. Divide the number of hanks for the sley 
and rvidth given on the following table by the counts of 
the war]) and the filling yarns; add both results together 
and allow for contraction and size, and divide into 100 
(yards). 

Example. A cloth is made 28 inches, 72 X 68, with 
80's warp and lOO's filling; alloAv 10% for contraction 
and size. How many yards of cloth are there per pound? 

By examining the table 72 sley cloth, 28 inches wide 
contains 240 hanks of warp. A 68 pick cloth contains 
226.66 hanks of filling for the same width. 

240 hanks warp ^- 80's counts = 3 
226.66 hanks filling -=- lOO's counts = 2.266 

5.266 
add 10% .526 



Weight of 100 yards of cloth, 5.792 lbs. 
100-^5.792 = 17.265 yards per lb., Ans. 



Practical Cottox Calculations 79 

*The tables on pag-es 80 and 81 will be found useful 
when finding the weight of warp or filling yarns in 100 
yards of cloth. Allowance has not been made in this 
table for contraction or size, as these will vary in differ- 
ent classes of goods. 

The width in the reed instead of the width of the 
cloth should be considered in dealing with filling calcu- 
lations. 

To Find Number of Ounces per Yard from a 
Small Piece of Cloth. 

Rule 72. Multipli/ the iridth of the cloth in inchefi 
by the "weight of a ftmall piece in grains and hg 3G, and 
divide bi/ IfS'H.o (grf. per oz.) and the number of square 
inches iceighed. 

ExA^iPLE. A piece of cloth 4 inches square weighs 
16 grains. What is the weight in ounces per yard of 
cloth 58 inches wide? 

28 inches X 16 grains X 36 

=2.3 ozs. per yd., Ans. 

437.5 grains X 16 sq. inches 

In the above rule 36 and 437.5 are constant numbers, 
therefore the 36 above the line could be dispensed with 
and \-2.\o-2 used instead of 437.5 below the line. (437.5 
grs. per oz. -f- 36 inches per yard = 12.15-2.) 

Using the preceding example the working would be 
as follows: 

28 inches X 16 grains 

■ z=i 2.3 ozs., per yd., A ns. 

12.152 X 16 sq. inches 



80 



Practicai. CoTixDN Calcui.atioxs 



NUMBER OF HANKS OF YARN, WARP OR 
FILLING, IN 100 YARDS OF CLOTH 

See note (*) on preceuing- page. 



CO 

W 
W 

I?; 

W 
H 
O 

O 
fa 

o 

w 

H 




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80 
91 .48 

102.86 

114.29 

125.71 

187.15 

148..57 

160 

171.48 

182.86 

194.29 

205.72 

217.14 

228. .57 

210 

251 .42 

262,86 

274.29 

285.72 

297.14 

808..58 

8.20 

881.18 

8,42. 8(i 

865.72 
877.15 

8.88.-58 
400 


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CO 


.58.8,8 
60.95 
68..57 
76.2 
.88.81 
91.48 
99.01 
106.6(; 
114.29 
121.9 

187.14 
114.76 

1.52.88 

160 

167.62 

175.21 

l.S2.8() 

190.17 

198.08 

205.71 

218.8,8 

220.95 

228.-58 

286.19 

218.8 

251 .42 

259.04 

266.60 


^ 


50 

-57.14 

64 .2H 

71 .48 

78.-57 

.85.71 

92.86 

100 

107.11 

1 14.28 

121.48 

128.-56 

185.71 

1 12.86 

1-57.14 

161.28 

171.48 

178.-57 

185.72 

192.84 

200 

207.14 

214.28 

221 ,42 

228.57 

285.71 

242.86 

2.50 


00 


46.66 

58.33 

60 

00.66 

78.88 

80 

86.66 

98.33 

00 

06.06 

13.33 

20 

8.:;. 83 
10 

58.83 
60 

78.83 

80 

86.66 

98,. 38 

>00 

>06.60 

J13.33 

J20 

;20.06 

533.33 


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Practical Cotton Calculations 



81 



NUMBER OF HANKS OF YARN, WARP OR 
FILLING, IN 100 YARDS OF CLOTH 



(See note (*) on page 79. 





(M 

to 


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Tf -5' -^ -<?' TT< ic lO lO lO lO lO lC to i» « "^^ « ^ l^ l^ i~ r^ t^ t^ l^ I- 




o 


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3C c-i TT< to ao 1-H CO ic" r-^ cJ !-< CO ic t^ ci ci •w' cc 00 '^^ ■-»" 'X i-J 

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T}< 'T T -* TT T lCiC lO ct lO 1-': to to to to CO to tO' l^ l^ I'- l^ l^ l^ 




00 


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1-^ '^^ -r 1-c' r^ 00 rH 0-) Tf ut' r-' oo" ^' o-i i5 i.o i--^ 06 t-h" c-i -^ 16 r^ oo r-3 

T-- n CO -ric to « 05 '-' 0-4 CO -r to 1- X' -H C-) -T Iff to I- XJ C-. c-i CO 
■rr' TT 'T" -n" -^ -V-^ -v iC. ift' lt: i-t lC L.-. lO uO to to :0 to to to to to to l^ l^ l^ 




CO 


CO -^ -^ -^ -^r ^ ^ -^ Tf T u-t ut iC uo iC iC lO iC' to to to to to CO to to to I- 


•J} 

w 
w 

W 
H 
O 


♦f 
■^ 


mimmiikMiiimimMim 




cocococo-n'^->3'Tf->i'Tr-<r-^'^-viC'CiJ;icSiCiOiOiOicSStDtoto 


O 


mimnmmmmiiimmmm 


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w 

H 


GO 
CO 




o 

CO 


^.Zi^fi'ir^ S^r^?5g^ gJJS^s^ S;:rt5iS3? Lo 




CO 






CO 






o 

CO 


^?^^!?rffg s?5^.^r^g ^gj^sss ;^s^;?F^-cg s 




OO 


SI? gj? g?S g?? gS? gfS g?§ gg? gg? g 

fMwmiMiMwimiimmmim'i 


HOI 


d[HO 


F2?:SSgSSg388^S§g8g|||2g2SS|gggg 



83 Practical Cottox Calculations 

PERCENTAGE OF WARP OR FILLING 

To Find % of Warp or Filling in Any Cloth 

*Rule 73. Mii/Itiply the number of ends in each 
icarp by the slashing len</th, and divide bi/ S4O and the 
counts. Add the resnlfs to obtain the weight of ivai'ps. 

Multiply the iridth in reed by the number of jncks of 
each count of piling per inch and the cloth length, and 
divide by 84O and the counts. Add results for weight 
of -fining. 

Add weight of warp and iceighf of filling lo find 
weight of cut. 

Divide weight of each counts by the total weight to 
find %. 

Example. An emtoossed quilt fabric is constructed 
as follows: 7500 ends of 40's yarn for face warp; 3G00 
ends of 30's warp for stitchino;; 60's filling for face and 
back; 12's filling for wadding; 160 picks per inch, ar- 
ranged in the proportion of 3 fine to 1 wadding; 98 
inches in the reed; slashing length of 40's warp, 110 
yards; slashing length of 2Qrs warp, 105 yards; length of 
cut, 100 yards. What is the % of each count of yarn in 
the cloth? 

7200 ends X 110 yards 

—————— = 23.57 lbs. of 40"s warp 

840 X 40 s counts 

8600 ends X 105 yards 



= 22.50 lbs. of 20's wf 



—— — — — - = — .ou los. ai ,--'u s warp 

840 X 20 s counts ^ 



Total weight of warp, 46.07 lbs. 



Practical Cottox Calculatioxs 83 

98 inches X 120 picks X 100 yards 

= :23.331bs. of 

840 X 60's counts ^^^^ f^^ng 

98 inches X 40 picks X 100 vards 

^ "- = 38.88 lbs. of 

840 X 12's counts wadding filling 

Total weight of filling, = 62.31 lbs. 



o<^ 



O.OI 



23.50 
23.33 

38.88 



108.28 lbs., weight of 100-yard cut of cloth. 

23.57 -4- 108.28 = .217, or 21.7%, 40's warp, Ans. 
22.50 -=- 108.28 = .207, or 20.7%, 20's warp. Am. 
23.33 -f- 108.28 = .215, or 21.5%, 60's filling, Ans. 
38.88 -^ 108.28 = .359, or 35.9%, 12's filling, Ans. 

The % may be found without finding the weight, as 
in the preceding example, by dispensing with the 840 and 
di\iding by the counts only. Using the preceding prob- 
lem as an illustration: 

7200 X 110 

= 19800 



= 18900 



40 


3600 X 105 


20 


98 X 120 X 100 


60 


98 X 40 X 100 



=: 19600 



^-2666 
12 

90966 



84 Pbactical Cotton Calculations 

19B00 -- 90966 = .217, or 21.7% 
18900 -^ 90966 = .207, or 20.7% 
19600 -^ 90966 r= .215, or 21.5% 
32666 -^ 90966 — .359, or 35.9% 



Total, .998, or 99.8% 



Rules 74 to 77 indicate the methods usually used for 
finding % of warp or filling in equally balanced cloths of 
one warp and one filling. Normal contractions in length 
and width of cloth, one balancing the other, are assumed 
when these are applied. 

To Find % of Warp or Filling in a Piece of 
Cloth when Ends in Warp, Pick, Warp, 
Filling and Width of Cloth Are Known. 

Rule 74. Divide the number of ends in the ivarp by 
the varp counts = A. 

Multiply the pick by the xcidth of the cloth, and 
divide by the fiMiny counts = B. 

Divide A by sum of A and B for % tcarp = Ans. 

Divide B by sum of A and B for % fillinp = Ans. 

Or deduct % rcarp from 100% for % filling = Ans. 

Example. A cloth 30 inches wide contains 2160 ends 
of 60's warp and 68 picks per inch of 85's filling. What 
are the relative percentages of warp and filling? 

2160 ends ~- 60's counts = 36 = A 

68 picks X 30 inches 



85 filling counts 



= 24 = B 



Practical Cottox Calculations 85 

36 + 24 = 60 
36 -f- 60 = .60 or 60% warp, Ans. 
100% — 60% = 40% filling, Ans. 



To Find % Warp or Filling when Weight of 
Warp and Weight of Cut Are Known. 

Rule 75. Divide -ir eight of tvarp by iveiyht of cut 
for % warp ^= Ans. 

Deduct % warp from 100% for % filling = Ans. 

Example. A ciii; of clotli weighing 8 lbs. contains 4.8 
lbs. of warp. What are the relative percentages of warp 
and filling? 

4.8 lbs. warp -i- 8 lbs. cut = .60 or 60% warp, An^. 
100% — 60% =40% filling, Ans. 



To Find % of Warp or Filling in a Piece of 
Cloth when Sley, Pick, Warp and Filling 
Counts Are Known. 

Rule 76. Divide the sley by the u-arp counts = A. 
Divide the pick by the filling counts =■ B. 
Divide A by sum of A and B for % warp z=. Ans. 
Divide B by sum of A and B for % filling = Ans. 
Or deduct % warp from 100% for % filling = Ans. 

ExA3iPLE. A cloth 12 X 68 is woven with 60's warp 
and 85's filling. What are the reh^tive percentages of 
warp and filling? 



86 Practical Cottox Calculations 

72 sley -7- 60's counts warp = 1.^? = A 
68 pick -r- 85's counts filling =: .8 = B 
1.2 + .8 = 3 
.8-^2 = .40 or 407c filling, A ns. 
or 100 — 60 = 40 or 40% filling, A ns. 



To Find % Warp or Filling in a Piece of 
Cloth when Sley, Pick, Average Counts 
and Warp Counts Are Known. 

Rule 77. Add sJey and pick together and divide by 
the average counts = A. 

Divide sley by warp counts = B. 

Divide B by A = % warp = Arts. 

Deduct % warp from 100% for % filling =■ Ans. 

Example. A cloth is made 104X112. The average 
number is 90 and the warp 80's. "What is the % warp? 

104 sley + 112 pick = 216 -^ 90's average counts- = 
2.4 = A. 

104 sley -~ 80's warp counts = 1.3 = B. 
1.3 -^ 2.4^=54% warp, A ns. 

The preceding rule may be applied to find % filling 
by substituting the filling counts for the warp counts 
and dividing the pick by the filling counts to find B. 

Note. If % warp or % filling is found it is only 
necessary to deduct same from 100% to find the % of 
the other. 



Practicat, Cottox Calcuiatioxs 87 

To Find Number of Square Yards in a Piece 
of Cloth. 

Rule 78. Miiltipltf inches in ii'idth by lenf/th in 
yards and hif 36 (inches in a yard) and divide by 1^96 
(square inches in a yard). 

Example. How many square yards are there in a 
piece of cloth 43 inches wide and 56 yards long? 

4(3 inches X <56 yards X 36 inches 

= 6,5 1-3 sq. yds., Ana. 

1-296 sq. ins. in a sq. yd. 

In the above rule, 36 inches to a yard, and V2i)6 squai'e 
hiches to a square yard, are constant factors; by dividing 
1296 by 36 the result is 36, which can be used as a con- 
stant, and the '36 and 1296 dispensed with, giving — 

Rule 79. Multiply width in inches by length in 
yards and divide by 36. 

Using the preceding example the working would be 
as follows: 

42 inches X 56 yards 

= 6o 1-3 sq. yards, Ans. 



36 



TWISTS PER INCH IN SINGLE 
YARNS 



The number of turns or twists per inch to put into 
yarns varies somewhat according to the quality of thfc 
material used and the use to which the yarn is to be 
subjected. 

The following list is copied from one of the leading 
textile journals of England, "The Textile Manufacturer," 
and may be said to be the generally accepted standard 
of twists per inch for single cotton yarn in England. 

Ring Frame Yams 

Very soft filling, sq. root of counts X 3.95 



Soft fdling, 






3.5 


Soft warp, " 






3.75 


Medium warp, - " 






4. 


Water warp, " 






4.25 


Extra hard warp, " 






6 



Mule Spun Yarns 



Hosiery yarn, 
Yarns for doubling. 
Medium filling, 
Medium warp, 
Fine filling, 
Fine waqD, 
Warp and extra hard 
for crepe yarn, 



sq. 


root 


of 


counts 


X 2.95 










" 9.75 










" 3.95 










" 3.75 










" 3.183 










" 3.606 



5 and up 



Practical Cottox Calculations 89 

The preceding twist constants are practically used 
only for guidance. 

Although warp yarn is usually twisted more than 
filling there are some mills that do not use a constant 
greater than 3.25 for warp yarn. 

TWISTS IN PLY OR DOUBLE YARN 



^ cord sewing thread, 


sq. 


root of ply count? 


X T.4 


3 cord sewing thread. 


ik 


a 


bi 


ki 


" 7.() 


6 cord sewing (prep.) 


a 


a 


a 


a 


" 4.5 


6 cord sewing (fin.) 


ik 


it 


a 


(b 


" 7.16 


Cord for manufacture 


a 


(I 


single 


a 


" 3.8 


Harness yarn (prep.) 

(3 strands) 


a 


(( 


ply 


a 


" 3.8 


Harness yarn (fin.) 


a 


a 


(( 


(b 


" 7.f> 


Harness yarn (prep.) 


a 


a 


(b 


iL 


(( o 


(4 strands) 










O 


Harness yarn (tin.) 


•i 


a 


<( 


,i 


" 6.3 


Knitting cotton 


(b 


a 


(4 


ii 


" 3.08 


Crochet cotton (4 fold) 


(( 


a 


a 


(( 


" 7.6 


Embroidery yarn-, (4 fold) 


a 


bb 


single 


a 


" 2.2 



TWIST TABLE 

On pages 90 and 91 will be found twist tables, used 
by permission of Draper Co., Hopedale, Mas-;. These 
show the square roots of all counts from 1 to 140, also 
the number of turns per inch for 5 kinds of yarns as 
used in the United States. 



90 



Practicai, Cotton- Cat.culatioms 



TWIST TABLE. 

Sbowiog thf squara root of the Dumbtrs or tounts from I to 140 backs Id (be pcuod, 

with the twist ptr iocb for JitTtiKnt kinds of yarn. 



Counts 
or 


Square 
Kool 


Ordinary 
Warp 


Warp 


Extra 
Mule Warp 


Mule Warp 
Twist 


Muie 
Filline 


Number?. 




Twist. 
4.75 


Twist 


Twist. 




TwiRt 


1 


l.OOOO 


4. 50 


4.00 


3.75 


3.25 


2 


1.4142 


6.72 


6.36 


6,66 


5.30 


4,60 


3 


1.7321 


8.23 


7.79 


6.93 


6.50 


5.03 


4 


2.0000 


9.50 


9.00 


8.0O 


7.50 


6.50 


6 


2.2301 


10.62 


10.06 


8.94 


8.39 


7.27 


6 


2.4405 


11.64 


11.02 


9.80 


9.19 


7.96 


,7 


2.6458 


12.57 


11.91 


10.58 


9.92 


8.60 


8 


2.8284 


13.44 


12.73 


11.31 


10.61 


9.19 





3.0000 


14.26 


13.50 


12.00 


11.25 


9.75 


g? 


3.1 023 


15.02 


14.23 


12.65 


11.80 


10.28 


3.3100 


15.75 


14.92 


13.27 


12.44 


10.78 


12 


3.4041 


16.45 


15.59 


13.86 


12.99 


11.26 


13 


3.00.".0 


17.13 


16.22 


14.42 


13.52 


11.72 


14 


3.7417 


17.77 


10.84 


14.97 


14.03 


12,16 


15 


3.8730 


18.40 


17.43 


15.49 


14.52 


12.59 


16 


4.0000 


19.00 


18.00 


16.00 


15.00 


13.00 


17 


4.1231 


19.58 


18.55 


16.49 


15.40 


13,40 


18 


4.2426 


20.15 


19.09 


16.97 


15.91 


13.79 


19 


4.3589 


20.70 


19.62 


17.44 


16.35 


14.17 


SO 


4.4721 


21.24 


20.12 


17.89 


16.77 


14:63 


21 


4.5826 


21.77 


20.62 


18.33 


17.18 


14.89 


22 


4.6904 


22.28 


21.11 


18.76 


17.59 


15.24 


23 


4.7958 


22.78 


21.58 


19.18 


17.98 


15.69 


24 


4.8990 


23.27 


22.05 


19.60 


18.37 


15.92 


25 


5.0000 


23.75 


22.50 


20.00 


18.75 


16.25 


26 


5.0990 


24.22 


22.95 


20.40 


19.12 


16.67 


27 


5.1962 


24.68 


23.38 


20.78 


19.49 


16.89 


28 


5.2915 


25.13 


23.81 


21.17 


19.84 


17,20 
17.50 


29 


5.3852 


25.58 


24.23 


21.54 


20.19 


30 


5.4T72 


20.02 


24.65 


21.91 


20.54 


17.80 


31 


5.5678 


2G.45 


25.06 


22.27 


20.88 


18.10 


32 


5.6569 


20.87 


25.46 


22.63 


21.21 


18.38 


33 


5.7446 


27.29 


25.85 


22.98 


21.54 


18.67 


34 


5.8310 


27.70 


26.24 


23.32 


21.87 


18.96 
19.23 


36 


5.9161 


28.10 


26.62 


23.66 


22.19 


36 


6.0000 


28.50 


27.00 


24.00 


22.50 


19.50 


37 


6.0828 


28.89 


27.37 


24.33 


22.81 


19.77 


38 


6.1644 


29.28 


27.74 


24.66 


23.12 


20.03 


39 


6.2450 


29.66 


28.10 


24.98 


23.42 


20.30 


40 


6.3240 


30.04 


28.46 


25.30 


23.72 


20.55 


41 


6.4031 


30.41 


28.81 


25.61 


24.01 


20.81 


42 


6.4807 


30.78 


29.16 


25.92 


24.30 


21.00 


43 


6.5574 


31.15 


29.51 


26.23 


24.59 


21.31 


44 


6.6332 , 


31.51 


29.85 


26.53 


24.87 


21.56 


45 


6.7082 


31.86 


30.19 


26.83 


25.16 


21.80 


46 


6.7823 


32.22 


30.52 


27.13 


25.43 


22.04 


47 


6.8567 


32.56 


30.85 


27.42 


25.71 


22.28 


48 


6.9282 


32.91 


31.18 


27.71 


25.98 


22.52 


49 


7.0000 


33.25 


31.50 


28.00 


26.26 


22.75 


KO 


7.0711 


33.59 


31.82 


28.28 


26.62 


22.98 


51 


7.1414 


33.92 


32.14 


28.57 


26.78 


23.21 


',2 


7.2111 


34.25 


32.45 


28.85 


27.04 


23.44 


.n3 


7.2801 


34.58 


32.76 


29.12 


27.30 


23.66 


54 


7.3485 


34.91 


33.07 


29.39 


27.56 


23.88 


55 


7.4162 


35.23 


33.37 


29.66 


27.81 


24,10 


56 


7.4833 


35.55 


33.67 


29.93 


28.06 


24.32 


57 
58 


7.5498 


35.86 


33.97 


30.20 


28.31 


24.54 


7.6158 


36.17 


34.27 


30.46 


28.56 


24.75 


59 


7.6811 


30.49 


34.67 


30.72 


28,80 


24.96 


60 


7.7460 


36.79 


34.86 


30.98 


29.05 


25.17 


61 


7.8102 


37.10 


35.15 


31,24 


29,29 


25.38 


62 


7.8740 


37.40 


35.43 


31.50 


29.53 


25.59 


63 


7.9373 


37.70 


35.72 


31.75 


29.76 


25.80 


64 


8.0000 


38.00 


36.00 


32.00 


30.00 


26.00 


C5 


8.0623 


38.30 


36.28 


32.25 


80.23 


26.20 


66 


8.1240 


38.59 


36.56 


32.50 


30.47 


26.40 


67 


8.1854 


38.88 


36.83 


32.74 


30.70 


26.60 


68 


8.2462 


89.17 


37.11 


32.98 


30.92 


26.80 


69 


8.3066 


39.46 


37.38 


33.23 


31.15 


27,00 


70 


8.3666 


39.74 


37.65 


33.47 


31.37 


27.19 



Practical Cottox Calculations 



91 







TWfST 


TABLE. Conltnuid. 






Countf 


Sqaar* 
Root. 


Ordioarr 




Extra 




Mulp 


or 


Warp 


Warr 


Mule Warp 


Mule Warp 
TwUt 


Filling 


Numbers. 


Twist 


Twist 


Twist. 


Twigt. 


1 


l.OOOO 


4.75 


4.no 


4.00 


8.75 


3.25 


71 


8.4261 


40.02 


37.92 


33.70 


81.60 


27.38 


72 


8.4853 


40.31 


38.18 


33.94 


31.82 


27.58 


73 


8.6440 


40.58 


38.45 


34.18 


32.04 


27.77 


74 


8.6023 


40.86 


38.71 


34.41 


32.26 


27.96 


75 


8.6603 


41.14 


38.97 


34.64 


32.48 


28.16 


76 


8.7178 


41.41 


39.23 


34.87 


32.69 


28.33 


77 


8.7760 


41.68 


39.49 


35.10 


32.91 


28.52 


78 


8.8318 


41.95 


39.74 


35.33 


33.12 


28.70 


79 


8.8882 


42.22 


40.00 


35.56 


33.33 


28.89 


80 


8.9443 


42.49 


40.26 


35.78 


33.54 


29.07 


81 


9.0000 


42.76 


40.50 


30.00 


33.75 


29.26 


82 


9.0564 


43.01 


40.75 


36.22 


33.96 


29.4? 


83 


9.1104 


43.27 


41.00 


36.44 


34.16 


29.61 


84 


9.1652 


43.53 


41.24 


86.66 


34.37 


29.79 


85 


9.2^195 


43.79 


41.49 


36.88 


34.57 


29.96 


86 


9.2736 


44.05 


41.73 


37.09 


84.78 


30.14 


87 


9.3274 


44.31 


41.97 


37.31 


34.98 


30.31 


88 


9.3808 


44.56 


42.21 


37.52 


35.18 


30.49 


89 


9.4340 


44.81 


42.46 


37.74 


35.38 


30.66 


90 


9.4868 


45.06 


42.69 


37.96 


85.58 


30.83 


91 


9..5394 


45.31 


42.93 


38.16 


36.77 


31.00 


92 


9.5917 


45.66 


43.16 


88.37 


35.97 


31.17 


93 


9.6437 


45.31 


43.40 


38.57 


36.16 


31.34 


94 


9.6954 


46.05 


43.63 


38.78 


36.36 


31.61 


95 


9.7468 


46.30 


43.86 


38.99 


36.66 


31.68 


96 


9.7980 


46.54 


44.09 


89.19 


36.74 


31.84 


97 


9.8489 


46.78 


44.32 


39.40 


36.93 


32.01 


98 


9.8995 


47.02 


44.55 


89.60 


37.12 


32.17 


99 


9.9499 


47.26 


44.77 


89.80 


37.31 


32.34 


100 


10.0000 


47.50 


45.00 


40.00 


37.50 


32.50 


101 


10.0499 


47.74 


45.22 


40.20 


37.69 


32.66 


102 


10.0995 


47.97 


46.45 


40.40 


37.87 


82.82 


103 


10.1489 


48.21 


46.67 


4(1.60 


38.06 


82.98 


104 


10.1980 


48.44 


45.89 


40.79 


38.24 


33.14 


105 


10.2470 


48.67 


46.11 


40.99 


38.43 


33.30 


106 


10.2956 


48.90 


46.33 


41.18 


38.61 


33.46 


107 


10.3441 


49.13 


48.55 


41.38 


38.79 


33.62 


108 


10.3973 


49.36 


46.77 


41.67 


38.97 


33.77 


109 


10.4403 


49.59 


46.9S 


41.76 


39.16 


33.93 


110 


10.4881 


49.82 


47.20 


41.96 


39.33 


34.09 


HI 


10.5357 


50.04 


47.41 


42.14 


39.61 


34.24 


112 


10.5830 


50.27 


47.62 


42.33 


39.69 


34.39 


113 


10.6301 


50.49 


47.84 


42.62 


39.86 


34.55 


114 


10.6771 


50.72 


48.05 


42.71 


40.04 


34.70 


115 


10.7238 


50.94 


48.26 


42.90 


40.21 


34.85 


116 


10.7703 


61.16 


48.47 


43.08 


40.39 


36.00 


117 


10.8167 


51.38 


48.67 


43.27 


40.56 


35.15 


118 


10.8628 


61.60 


48.88 


43.46 


40,74 


35.30 


119 
. 120 


10.9087 


61.82 


49.09 


43.63 


40.91 


35.45 


10.9545 


62.03 


49.30 


43.82 


41.08 


35.60 


121 


11.0000 


52.26 


49.60 


44.00 


41.25 


35.75 


122 


11.0454 


52.47 


49.70 


44.18 


41.42 


35.90 


123 


11.0905 


62.68 


49.91 


44.36 


41.59 


36.04 


124 


11.1366 


62.8§ 


50.11 


44.64 


41.76 


36.19 


125 


11.1803 


63.11 


50.31 


44.72 


41.93 


36.34 


126 


11.2250 


53.32 


50.51 


44.90 


42.09 


36.48 


127 


11.2694 


63.53 


50.71 


45.08 


42.26 


36.63 


! 128 


11.3137 


53.74 


60.91 


45.25 


42.43 


86.77 


129 


11.3678 


53.96 


61.12 


45.43 


42.59 


86.91 


ISO 


11.4018 


54.16 


51.31 


45.61 


42.76 


37.06 


131 


11.4465 


54.37 


51,60 


45.78 


42.92 


37.20 


132 


11.4891 


64.67 


61,70 


46.96 


43.08 


37.34 


133 


11.5326 


54.78 


61.90 


46,13 


43.26 


87.48 


134 


11.5758 


64.99 


62.09 


46.30 


43.41 


37.62 


136 


11.6190 


56.19 


62.29 


46.48 


43.67 


37.76 


136 


11.6619 


65.89 


52.48 


46.65 


43.73 


37.90 


137 


11.7047 


55.60 


52.67 


46.82 


43.89 


38.04 


138 


11.7473 


55.80 


62.86 


47.99 


44.05 


38.18 


139 


11.7898 


66.00 


63,06 


47.16 


44.21 


38.32 


140 


11.8322 


66.20 


&a.34 


47.33 


44.37 


38.46 



92 Practical Cottox Calculations 

DIAMETERS OF YARNS 

The question of the diameter of yarns has very little 
bearing: on practical calculations. About the only prac- 
tical value that can be quoted is that of guiding a person 
to prevent him from attempting to make an impossible 
construction of cloth. 

There is a limit to the sley and pick of a cloth that 
can be woven with a given weave and a given amount of 
material, the number varying according to the number of 
interlacings in the w'eave and the counts of yarn. 

It is well known that yarns of similar counts but of 
different grades of cotton vary in diameter, the natural 
tendency of some being to bed into each other more than 
others, thereby forming a yarn with a smaller diameter. 

A yarn made in a room containing a moistening 
apparatus will also be of smaller diameter than one 
made in a hot dry room in which there is considerable 
electricity, because the fibres have a tendency to cling 
together better in a damp room. 

The diameters of cotton yarns vary inversely as the 
square roots of the counts, and the following is given: 

To Find the Diameter of a Cotton Yarn, or 
the Number of Strands of Cotton Yam 
of Any Counts that can be Placed Side 
by Side in One Inch. 

Rule 80. Mttltiph/ SIfO h]i the counts of yarn; ex- 
tract the square root of the answer and deduct 10% for 
compress^ion. (See Rule 81.) 



Practicai, Cottox Cai.culations 93 

ExA3iPi.E. What is the diameter of I's yarn? 

840 X 1 == S40; sq. root 840 = ;2S.98; 10% of 28.98 
= 2.89. 

^g,Q8 — 2.89 = 26.09 or 26.1, 1-26.1 inches, diameter of 
yarn, Ans. 

That is, 26.1 strands of I's yarn can be placed side h}' 
side in the space of 1 inch. 

As the diameter of No. I's yarn is 1/26.1 inches. Rule 
8] may be substituted for Rule 80. 

Rule 81. Multipli/ the square root of the counts of 

yarn bt/ -26.1. 

ExAMPi^, How many strands of 36's yarn can be 
placed in 1 inch, flat? 

Sq. root 36=6; 6 X 26.1 = 156.6, .d(H5. 
That is, a 3G's yarn is 1-1.56.6 inches in diameter. 

The tables on pages 90 and 91 show the square root 
of all counts from 1 to 140, therefore to find the diameter 
of any cotton yarn it is only necessary to multiply the 
square root of the counts desired, as found in the table, 
by 26.1 to give the number of strands of yarn of that 
i^'ount that can be laid in the space of one inch. 



94 Practical Cottox Calculatioxj* 

TESTING YARNS FOR STRENGTH 

The method generally adopted when testing yarns in 
hank form for strength is to reel one lea from each of 1 
to 4 bobbins, and place each lea separately on a machine 
made for the purpose which automatically indicates the 
breaking strength of yarn. It is advisable to have the 
testing machine nm by power because when making 
comparative tests the pull on each hank should be 
uniform. 

Yarns of similar counts but different grades of cotton 
vary in breaking strength, and it is impossible to state 
just how strong a yarn should be. The number of turns 
or twists per inch will also vary the breaking strength. 

By referring to the table on page 96 it will be noticed 
that the yarns do not vary in breaking strength in similar 
proportion to the counts. 



BREAKING WEIGHTS OF AMERICAN 
YARNS SPUN FROM AMERI- 
CAN COTTON 



The table on page 9(), used by permission of Draper 
Company, Hopedale, Massachusetts, indicates the average 
breaking? weights of sample skeins from several hundred 
American mills. 

The OLD breaking weight referred to in the table is an 
old standard obtained by tests from 2:25 mills in 18S6, 
and is here shown for the purpose of comparison with 
the XEW standards. 

The first xew table represents average tests of carded 
yarns made from stock averaging about strict middling 
in grade. The combed warp table represents tests of 
yarns made from stock slightly under good middling. 
The table of soft twisted yarn is based on yarns aver- 
aging 3.25 times the square root of the counts of twist, 
the stock averaging about strict middling. All the yarns 
were tested on a ]>ower tester. 



1 




OLD 1 


NEW 1 


NEW 


NEW 






OLD 


NEwl 


yards 
eight 
drains. 




aking 
eight 
Warp 
am. 


aking 
e'ght 
Warp 
arn. 


aking 
eight 
mbed 
arp. 


aking 
eight 
; Twist 
am. 


120 yards 

Weight 

in Grains. 


H 

p- TO 


Breaking 

Weight 

of Warp 

Yarn. 


aking 
eight 
mbed 
'arp. 


i^!s 


5^ 

2 o 




P3^ o 


|sa? 




2.^ 
Z o 

51 


1^^^ 


1000 


1 










19.6 


36.6 


47— 


500 


2 










19.2 


52 


36.1 


46 


333.3 


3 


530 


634+ 


863— 


620+ 


18.9 


63 


35.5 


45+ 


260 


4 


410 


476— 


646 


462 


18.5 


64 


34.9 


44+ 


200 


5 


330 


381 


516 


867 


18.2 


55 


34.4 


43- 


166.7 


6 


275 


318— 


429+ 

3674- 


304— 


17.9 


56 


33.8 


42-1- 


142.9 


7 


2:^7.6 


2724- 
238-4- 


258+ 


17.5 


57 


33.4 


42— 


126 


8 


209 


321 


224-- 


17.2 


58 


32.8 


41- 


111.1 


9 


186.5 


212-i- 


285- 


198-1- 


17 


59 


32.3 


4C+ 


100 


10 


168.7 


191 


256 


177 


16.7 


60 


31.7 


39+ 


90.9 


11 


154.1 


174— 


232+ 


160— 


16.4 


61 


31.3 


89— 


83.3 


12 


142 


159-1- 


213— 


146+ 
133+ 


16.1 


62 


30.8 


38- 


76.9 


13 


131.5 


147+ 


196 


15.9 


63 


30.4 


37+ 


71.4 


14 


122.8 


137— 


182- 


123— 


16.6 


64 


30 


37- 


66.7 


15 


115.1 


128— 


169+ 
1584- 


114— 


15.4 


65 


29.6 


36 


62.5 


16 


108.4 


120— 


106- 


15.2 


66 


29.2 


35+ 


58.8 


17 


102.5 


113— 


149— 


99— 


14.9 


67 


28.8 


35- 


56.6 


18 


97.3 


107— 


140+ 


93- 


14.7 


68 


28.5 


34+ 


52.6 


19 


92.6 


101 


133— 


87 


14.6 


69 


28.2 


34- 


60 


30 


88.3 


96 


126 


82 


14.3 


70 


27.8 


88+ 


47.6 


21 


83.8 


91+ 
87+ 


120— 


77+ 


14.1 


71 


27.4 


83- 


46.5 


22 


79.7 


114H 


_ 


73-1- 


13.9 


72 


27.1 


32+ 


43.5 


23 


75.9 


84— 


109- 


- 


70— 


13.7 


73 


26.8 


32- 


41.7 


24 


72.4 


80+ 


104- 


- 


66+ 


13.6 


74 


26.5 


31+ 


40 


25 


69.2 


77 


100 


6;} 


13.3 


76 


26.2 


31- 


38.6 


26 


66.3 


74+ 


96 


60+ 


13.2 


76 


25.8 


80+ 


37 


27 


63.6 


71+ 


92+ 


57+ 


13 


77 


25,5 


30— 


35.7 


28 


61.3 


69- 


89- 


55— 


12.8 


78 


25.3 


29+ 


34.6 


29 


69.2 


67- 


8&- 


53— 


12.7 


79 


24.9 


29- 


33.3 


30 


57.3 


64H 


_ 


83- 


50H 


_ 


12.5 


80 


24.6 


28+ 
28-i- 


32.3 


31 


55.6 


62- 


- 


80- 


48- 


- 


1 12.4 


81 


24.3 


31.3 


32 


54 


60- 




77+ 


46- 


- 


i 12.2 


82 


24 


28- 


30.3 


33 


52.6 


69— 


75- 


45— 


1 12.1 


83 


23.7 


27+ 


29.4 


34 


51.2 


57- 


72- 


- 


43- 


11.9 


84 


23.4 


27— 


28.6 


35 


50 


55+ 


70- 


_ 


41+ 


11.8 


85 


23.2 


27- 


27.8 


36 


48.7 


54- 


68- 


- 


40— 


11.6 


86 


22.8 


26+ 


27 


37 


47.6 


52+ 


66- 


- 


38+ 


11.5 


87 


22.6 


26— 


26.3 


38 


46.6 


51 


64- 


- 


37 


11.4 


88 


22.4 


26— 


25.6 


39 


46.5 


50— 


63- 


36— 


11.2 


89 


22.2 


25+ 


»5 


40 


44.G 


48H 


_ 


61 


34+ 

334- 


11.1 


90 


22 


25— 


24.4 


41 


48.8 


47- 


_ 


69+ 


11 


91 


21.7 


25— 


23.8 


42 


43 


46- 


- 


68— 


32— 


10.9 


92 


21.5 


24+ 


23.3 


43 


42.2 


45- 


- 


56+ 


31— 


10.8 


93 


21.3 


24— 


22.7 


44 


41.4 


44- 


- 


55+ 


30— 
29— 


10.6 


94 


21.2 


24— 
23+ 
23-f 


22.2 


45 


40.7 


43- 


- 


54- 


10.5 


95 


21 


21.7 


46 


40 


42- 


- 


53- 


28— 


10.4 


96 


20.7 


21.3 


47 


39.3 


41- 


- 


51+ 


27— 


10.3 


97 


20.5 


23- 


20.8 


48 


38.6 


. 41- 


60— 


27— 


10.2 


98 


20.4 


23- 


20.4 


49 


37.9 


40— 


49— 


26— 


10.1 


99 


20.2 


22+ 


^JO 


50 


37.3 


39 


48 


25 


10 


100 


20 


22 



Practical Cotton Calculations 



97 



Yards of Cloth per loom per day of ten houra 



Picks 
















per 




Picks. per minute. 








ioch 
















20 


100 


105 


110 


115 


120 


125 


130 


135 


140 


146 


160 


83.3 


87.5 


91.7 


95.8 


100.0 


104.2 


108.3 


112.5 


116.7 


120.8 


125.0 


22 


75.8 


79.5 


83.3 


87.1 


90.9 


94.7 


98.5 


102.3 


106.1 


109.8 


113.6 


24 


69.4 


72.9 


76.4 


79.9 


83.3 


86.8 


90.3 


93.7 


97.2 


100.7 


104.2 


26 


64.1 


67.3 


70.5 


73.7 


76.9 


80.1 


83.3 


86.6 


89.7 


92.9 


96.2 


28 


59.5 


62.5 


65.5 


68.5 


71.4 


74.4 


77.4 


80.4 


83.3 


86.3 


89.3 


30 


55.6 


58.3 


61.1 


63.9 


66.7 


69.4 


72.2 


75.0 


77.8 


80.6 


83.3 


32 


52.1 


54.7 


57.3 


59.9 


62.5 


65.1 


67.7 


70.3 


72.9 


75.6 


78.1 


34 


49.0 


51.5 


53.9 


56.4 


68.8 


61.3 


63.7 


66.2 


68.6 


71.1 


73.5 


36 


46.3 


48.6 


50.9 


53.2 


65.6 


57.9 


60.2 


62.5 


64.8 


67.1 


69.4 


38 


43.9 


46.1 


48.2 


50.4 


62.6 


64.8 


57.0 


59.2 


61.4 


63.6 


66.8 


40 


41.7 


43.7 


45.8 


47.9 


60.0 


62.1 


54.2 


56.3 


58.3 


60.4 


62.6 


42 


39.7 


41.7 


43.7 


45.6 


47.6 


49.6 


51.6 


53.6 


55.6 


57.5 


59.5 


44 


37.9 


39.8 


41.7 


43.6 


45.5 


47.3 


49.2 


51.1 


53.0 


549 


56.8 


46 


36.2 


38.0 


39.9 


41.7 


43.5 


45,3 


47.1 


48.9 


50.7 


52.5 


54.3 


48 


34.7 


36.5 


38.2 


39.9 


41.7 


43.4 


45.1 


46.9 


48.6 


50.3 


.S2.1 


60 


33.3 


35.0 


36.7 


38.3 


40.0 


41 7 


43.3 


45.0 


4G.7 


48,3 


50.0 


52 


'32.1 


33.7 


35.3 


36.9 


38.5 


40.1 


41.7 


43.3 


44.9 


46.6 


48.1 


64 


30.9 


32.4 


34.0 


35.5 


37.0 


38.6 


40.1 


41,7 


43.6 


44.8 


46.3 


56 


29.8 


31.3 


32.7 


34.2 


35.7 


37.2 


38.7 


40.2 


41.7 


43.2 


44.6 


58 


28.7 


30.2 


31.6 


33.0 


34,5 


35,9 


37.4 


38.8 


40.2 


41.7 


43.1 


60 


27.8 


29 2 


30.6 


31.9 


33.3 


34.7 


36.1 


37.5 


38.9 


40,3 


41.7 


62 


26.9 


2812 


29.6 


30.9 


32.3 


33.6 


34.9 


36.3 


37.6 


39.0 


40.3 


64 


26.0 


27.3 


28.6 


29.9 


31.3 


32.6 


33.9 


35.2 


36.5 


37.8 


39.1 


66 


25.3 


26.5 


27.8 


29.0 


30.3 


31.6 


32.8 


34.1 


35.4 


36.6 


37.9 


68 


24.5 


25.7 


27.0 


28.2 


29.4 


30.6 


31.9 


33.1 


34.3 


35,5 


36.8 


70 


23.8 


25.0 


26.2 


27.4 


28.6 


29.8 


31.0 


32.1 


33.3 


34.6 


36.7 


72 


23.1 


24.3 


25.5 


26.6 


27.8 


28.9 


30.1 


31.3 


32.4 


33,6 


34.7 


74 


22.5 


23.6 


24.8 


25.9 


27.0 


28.2 


29.3 


30.4 


31.5 


32.7 


33.8 


76 


21.9 


23.0 


24.1 


25.2 


26.3 


27.4 


28.5 


29.6 


30.7 


31.8 


32.9 


78 


21.4 


22.4 


23.6 


24.6 


25.6 


26.7 


27.8 


28.8 


29.9 


31,0 


32.1 


80 


20.8 


21.9 


22.9 


24.0 


25.0 


26.0 


27.1 


28.1 


29.2 


30.2 


31.3 


82 


20.3 


21.3 


22.4 


23.4 


24.4 


25.4 


26.4 


27.4 


28.5 


29.5 


30.5 


84 


19.8 


2.0.8 


21.8 


22.8 


23.8 


24.8 


25.8 


26.8 


27.8 


28.8 


29.8 


86 


19.4 


20.3 


21.3 


22.3 


23.3 


24.2 


25.2 


26.2 


27.1 


28.1 


29.1 


88 


18.9 


19.9 


20.8 


21.8 


22.7 


23,7 


24.C 


25.6 


26,5 


27,5 


28.4- 


90 


18.5 


19.4 


20.4 


21.3 


22.2 


23.1 


24.1 


25.0 


25.9 


26.9 


27.8 


92 


18.1 


19.0 


19.9 


20.8 


21.7 


22.6 


23.6 


24.5 


25.4 


26.3 


27.2 


94 


17.7 


18.6 


19.5 


20.4 


21.3 


22.2 


23.0 


23.9 


24.8 


25 7 


26.6 


96 


17.4 


18.2, 


19.1 


20.0 


20.8 


21,7 


22.6 


23.4 


24.3 


25,2 


26.0 


98 


17.0 


17.9 


18.7 


19.6 


20.4 


21 3 


22.1 


23.0 


23.8 


24.7 


26.6 


100 


16.7 


17.5 


18.3 


19.2 


20.0 


20.8 


21.7 


22.5 


23.3 


24.2 


25.0 


102 


16.3 


17.2 


18.0 


18.8 


19.6 


20.4 


21.2 


22.1 


22.9 


23.7 


24.5 


104 


16.0 


16.8 


17.6 


18.4 


192 


20.0 


20.8 


21.6 


22.4 


23.2 


24.0 


106 


15.7 


16.5 


17.3 


18.1 


18.9 


19,7 


20.4 


21.2 


22.0 


22.8 


23.6 


108 


15.4 


16.2 


17.0 


17.7 


18.5 


19.3 


20.1 


20.8 


21.6 


22.4 


23.1 


110 


15.2 


16.9 


16.-7 


17.4 


18.2 


18.9 


19.7 


20.5 


21.2 


22.0 


22.7 


112 


14.9 


16.'6 


16.4 


17.1 


17.9 


18.6 


19.3 


20.1 


20.8 


21.6 


22.3 


114 


14.6 


15.4 


16.1 


16.8 


17.6 


18.3 


19.0 


19.7 


20.5 


21.2 


21.9 


116 


14.4 


16.1 


15.8 


16.5 


17.2 


18.0 


18.7 


19.4 


20.1 


20.8 


21.6 


118 


14.1 


14.8 


15.5 


16.2 


16.9 


17.7 


18.4 


19.1 


19.8 


20.5 


21.2 


120 


13.9 


14.6 


15.3 


16.0 


16.7 


17.4 


18.1 


18.7 


19.4 


20.1 


20.8 


122 


13.7 


14.2^ 


15.0 


15.7 


16.4 


17.1 


17.8 


18.4 


19.1 


19.8 


20.4 


124 


13.4 


14.1 


14.8 


15.6 


16.1 


16.8 


17.5 


18.1 


18.8 


19.5 


20.1 


126 


13.2 


13.9 


14.6 


15.2 


15.9 


16.5 


17.2 


17.9 


18.5 


19.2 


19.8 


128 


13.0 


13.7 


14.3 


16.0 


15.6 


16.3 


16.9 


17.6 


18.2 


18.9 


19.5 


130 


12.8 


13.5 


14.1 


14.7 


15.4 


16.0 


16.7 


17.3 


17.9 


18.6 


19.2 


134 


12.4 


13.1 


13.7 


14.3 


14.9 


15.5 


16.2 


16.8 


17.4 


18.U 


18.7 


136 


12.3 


12.9 


13.6 


14.1 


14 7 


15.3 


15.9 


16.5 


17.2 


17.8 


18.4 


140 


11.9 


12.6 


13.1 


13.7 


14.3 


14 9 


15.5 


16.1 


16.7 


17.3 


17.9 


144 


11.6 


12.2 


12.7 


13.3 


13.9 


14.5 


15.0 


15.6 


16.2 


16.8 


17.4 


146 


11.4 


12.0 


12.6 


13.1 


13 ■? 
13.3 


14.3 


14.8 


15.4 


16.0 


16.6 


17.1 


160 


11.1 


11.7 


12.2 


12.8 


13.9 


14.4 


16.0 


15.6 


16.1 


16.7 


154 


10.8 


11.4 


11,9 


12.4 


13.0 


13.6 


14.1 


14.6 


15.2 


15.7 


16.2 


J 66 


10.7 


11.2 


11^ 


12.3 


12.8 


13.4 


13.9 


14.4 


15.0 


15.5 


16,0 


160 


10.4 


10.9 


11.5 


12.0 


12.5 


13.0 


13.5 


14.1 


14.6 


15.1 


15.6 


164 


10.2 


10.7 


11.2 


11.7 


12.2 


12.7 


13.2 


13.7 


14.2 


14.7 


15.2 


166 


10.0 


10.5 


11.0 


11.5 


12.0 


12.6 


13.1 


13.5 


14.1 


14.6 


15.1 


170 


9^ 


10.3 


10.8 


11.3 


11.8 


12.3 


12.7 


13.2 


13.7 


14.2 


14.7 


174 


9.6 


10.1 


10.5 


11.0 


n.5 


12.0 


12.5 


12.9 


13.4 


13.9 


14.4 


176 


9.6 


9.9 


10.4 


10.9 


11.4 


11.8 


12.3 


12.8 


13.3 


13.7 


14.2 


180 


9.3 


9.7 


10.2 


10.6 


11.1 


11.6 


12.0 


12.5 


13.0 


13.4 


13.9 



98 



Practical Cottox Calcuiatioxs 



Yards of Cloth per loom per day of ten hours. 



Piciu 














1 


>l>er 

inrh. 


•»» 




Picks per m!Dut«. 






1 


80 


155 


160 165 


170 


175 


180 

1500 


185 

154.2 


190 


195 

1(3276 


200 

166.7 


nor, 

170.8 


129.2 


133.3 137.5 


141.7 


145.8 


158.3 


22 


117.4 


121.2 125.0 


128.8 


132.6 


136.4 


140.2 


143.9 


147.7 


151.5 


155.3 


24 


107.6 


111.1,114.6 


118.1 


121.5 


125.0 


128.5 


131.9 


135.4 


138.0 


142.4 


26 


09.4 


102.6 


105.8 


109.0 


112.2 


115.4 


118.6 


121.8 


125.0 


128.2 


131.4 


28 


02.3 


95.2 


08.2 


101.2 


104.2 


107.1 


110.1 


113.1 


116.1 


1 1 0.0 


122.0 


30 


86.1 


88 9 


01.7 


94.4 


97.2 


100.0 


102.8 


105.5 


108.3 


111.1 


113.9 


32 


80.7 


83.3 


85.9 


88.5 


01.1 


93.7 


96.4 


90.0 


101.6 


104.2 


106.8 


34 


76.0 


78.4 


80.9 


83.3 


85.8 


88.2 


90.7 


03.1 


95.6 


9H.0 


J 00.5 


36 


71.8 


74.1 


76.4 


78.7 


81.0 


83.3 


85.6 


88.0 


90.3 


02.6 


94.9 


38 


68.0 


70.2 


72.4 


74.6 


76.8 


78.9 


81.1 


83.3 


85.5 


87.7 


89.9 


40 


64.6 


60.7 


68.7 


70.8 


72.9 


75.0 


77.1 


70.2 


81.3 


83.3 


85.4 


42 


61.5 


63.5 


65.5 


67.5 


60.4 


71.4 


73.4 


75.4 


77.4 


79.4 


81.3 


44 


58.7 


60.6 


62.5 


64.4 


66.3 


68.2 


70.1 


72.0 


73.9 


75.8 


77.7 


46 


56.2 


58.0 


50.8 


61.6 


63.4 


65.2 


67.0 


68.8 


70.7 


72.5 


74.3 


48 


53.8 


55.6 


57.3 


59.0 


(;o.8 


62.5 


64.2 


66.0 


67.7 


09.4 


71.2 


no 


51.7 


53.3 


55.0 


56.7 


58.3 


60.0 


61.7 


63.3 


65.0 


66.7 


08.3 


52 


40.7 


51.3 


52.9 


54.5 


56.1 


57.7 


59.3 


60.9 


62.5 


64.1 


65.7 


54 


47.8 


49.4 


50.0 


52.5 


54.0 


55.6 


57.1 


58.6 


60.2 


61.7 


63.3 


56 


46.1 


47.6 


40.1 


50.6 


52.1 


53.6 


55.1 


56.5 


58.0 


50.5 


61.0 


58 


44.5 


46.() 


47.4 


48.8 


50.3 


51.7 


53.2 


54.6 


56.0 


57.5 


58.9 


CO 


43.1 


44.4 


45.8 


47.2 


48.6 


50.0 


61.4 


52.8 


54.2 


65.6 


56.9 


62 


41.7 


43.0 


44.4 


45.7 


47.0 


48.4 


49.7 


51.1 


52.4 


53.8 


55.1 


64 


40.4 


41.7 


43.0 


44.3 


45.6 


46.0 


48.2 


49.5 


50.8 


52.1 


53.4 


66 


39.1 


40.4 


41.7 


42.9 


44.2 


45.5 


46.7 


48.0 


49.2 


50.5 


61.8 


68 


38.0 


30.2 


40.4 


41.7 


42.9 


44.1 


45.3 


46.6 


47.8 


49.0 


50.2 


70 


36.0 


38.1 


30.3 


40.5 


41.7 


42.9 


44.0 


45.2 


46.4 


47.6 


48.8 


72 


35.0 


37.0 


38.2 


39.4 


40.5 


41.7 


42.8 


44.0 


45.1 


46.3 


47.5 


74 


34.9 


36.0 


37.2 


38.3 


39.4 


40.5 


41.7 


42.8 


43.9 


45.0 


40.2 


76 


34.0 


35.1 


36.2 


37.3 


38.4 


39.5 


40.6 


41.7 


42.8 


43.9 


45.0 


78 


33.1 


34.2 


35.3 


36.3 


37.4 


38.5 


39.5 


40.6 


41.7 


42.7 


43.8 


80 


32.3 


33.3 


34.4 


35.4 


36.5 


37.5 


38.5 


39.6 


40.0 


41.7 


42.7 


82 


31.5 


32.5 


33.5 


34.6 


35.6 


30.0 


37.6 


38.6 


39.6 


40.7 


41.7 


84 


30.S 


31.7 


32.7 


33.7 


34.7 


35.7 


36.0 


37.7 


38.7 


39.7 


40.7 


86 


30.0 


31.0 


32.0 


32.9 


33.9 


34.9 


35.8 


36.8 


37.8 


38.8 


39.7 


88 


29.4 


30.3 


31.3 


32.2 


33.1 


34.1 


35.0 


36.0 


36.9 


37.9 


38.8 


90 


2S.7 


29.6 


30.6 


31.5 


32.4 


33.3 


34.3 


35.2 


36.1 


37.0 


38.0 


•J2 


28.1 


29.0 


20.0 


30.8 


31.7 


32.6 


33.5 


34.4 


35.3 


30.2 


37.1 


!)4 


27.5 


28.4 


20.3 


30.1 


31.0 


31.9 


32.8 


33.7 


34.6 


35.5 


.36.3 


06 


26.9 


27.8 


28.6 


29.5 


30.4 


31.3 


32.1 


33.0 


33.9 


34.7 


35.6 


98 


20.4 


27.2 


28.1 


28.9 


20.8 


30.6 


31.5 


32.3 


33.2 


34.0 


34.9 


lOO 


25.8 


26.7 


27.5 


28.3 


20.2 


30.0 


30.8 


31.7 


32.5 


33.3 


34.4 


102 


25.3 


26.1 


27.0 


27.8 


28.6 


29.4 


30.2 


31.0 


81.9 


32.7 


33.6 


104 


24.8 


25.6 


26.4 


27.2 


28.0 


28.8 


29.6 


30.4 


31.3 


32.1 


32.9 


106 


24.4 


2.-. 2 


25.9 


26.7 


27.5 


28.3 


29.1 


20.9 


30.7 


31.4 


32.2 


108 


23.9 


24.7 


25.5 


2(i.2 


27.0 


27.8 


28.5 


20.3 


30.1 


30.0 


31.6 


no 


23.5 


24.2 


25.0 


25.:8 


26.5 


27.3 


28.0 


28.8 


29.5 


30.3 


31.1 


112 


23.1 


23.8 


24.6 


25.3 


26.0 


20.8 


27.5 


28.3 


29.0 


29.8 


30.5 


114 


22.7 


23.4 


24.1 


24.9 


25.0 


26.3 


27.0 


27.8 


28.5 


29.2 


30.0 


116 


22.3 


23.0 


23.7 


24.4 


25.1 


25.9 


26.6 


27.3 


28.0 


28.7 


20.5 


118 


21.0 


22.6 


23.3 


24.0 


24.7 


25.4 


26.1 


20.8 


27.5 


28.2 


29.0 


190 


21.5 


22.2 


22.0 


23.0 


24.3 


25.0 


25.7 


26.4 


27.1 


27.8 


28.6 


122 


21.2 


21.9 


22.5 


23.2 


23.9 


24.0 


25.3 


26.0 


26.0 


27.3 


28.0 


124 


20.8 


21.5 


22.2 


22.8 


23.5 


24.2 


24.9 


25.5 


26.2 


26.9 


27.6 


126 


20.5 


21.2 


21.8 


22.5 


23.1 


23.8 


24.5 


25.1 


25.8 


20.5 


27.1 


128 


20.2 


20.8 


21.5 


22.1 


22.8 


23.4 


24.1 


24.7 


25.4 


26.0 


26.7 


130 


19.9 


20.5 


21.2 


21.8 


22.4 


23.1 


23.7 


24.4 


25.0 


25.6 


26.3 


134 


19.3 


19.9 


20.5 


21.1 


21.8 


22.4 


23.0 


23.6 


24.3 


24.9 


26.5 


136 


19.0 


19.6 


20.2 


20.8 


21.4 


22.1 


22.7 


23.3 


23.9 


24.5 


25.1 


140 


18.5 


10.0 


10.6 


20.2 


20.8 


21.4 


22.0 


22.6 


23.2 


23.8 


24.4 


144 


17.9 


18.5 


10.1 


19.7 


20.3 


20.8 


21.4 


22.0 


22.6 


23.1 


23.7 


146 


17.7 


18.3 


18.8 


19.4 


20.0 


20.5 


21.1 


21.7 


22.3 


22.8 


23.4 


150 


17.2 


17.8 


18.3 


18.9 


10.4 


20.0 


20.6 


21.1 


21.7 


22.2 


22.8 


154 


16.8 


17.3 


17.0 


18.4 


18.9 


19.5 


20.0 


20.6 


21.1 


21.6 


22.2 


156 


16.6 


17. 1 


17.6 


18.2 


18.7 


19.2 


19.8 


20.3 


20.8 


21.4 


21.9 


160 

164 


16.1 


16.7 


17.2 


17.7 


18.2 


18.7 


10.3 


10.8 


20.3 


20.8 


21.4 


15.8 


16.3 


16.8 


17.3 


17.8 


18.3 


18.8 


19.3 


19.8 


20.3 


20.8 


166 


15.6 


'16.1 


16.6 


17.1 


17.6 


18.1 


18.6 


19.1 


19.6 


20.1 


20.6 


170 

174 


15.2 


15.7 


16.2 


16.7 


17.2 


17.6 


18.1 


18.0 


19.1 


19.6 


20.1 


14.8 


15.4 


15.8 


16.3 


16.8 


17.2 


17.7 


18.2 


18.7 


19.2 


19.6 


176 


14.7 


15.2 


15.6 


16.1 


16.6 


17.0 


17.5 


18.0 


18.5 


18.9 


19.4 


180 


14.4 


14.8 


15.3 


15.7 


16.2 


16.7 


17.l| 


17.6 


18.1 


ii^.r, 


JjuJ 



CLOTH PRODUCTION 



To Find Production of Cloth per Week of 48, 
54, 56, 58 or 60 Hours, at Any Desired 
% from 50 to 100, Running in 5's. 

Rule 82. Multiply the speed of the loom by the 
constant desired in the following list and divide by the 
number of picks per inch. 



PeriCen't. 
of pro- 
duction 

50 


Constant 
to use 
for 
t8 hours 

40 


Constant 
to use 

for 
54 hours 

45 


Constant 

to use 

for 

5i6 hours 

46 2-3 


Constant 
to use 

for 
5'8 hours 

48 1-3 


Constant 
to use 

for 
60 hours 

50 


55 


44 


49.5 


511-3 


53 1-6 


55 


60 


48 


54 


56 


58 


60 


65 


52 


58.5 


60 2-3 


62 5-8 


65 


70 


56 


63 


65 1-3 


67 2-3 


70 


75 


60 


67.5 


70 


731/3 


75 


80 


64 


72 ■ 


74 2-3 


771-3 


80 


85 


68 


76.5 


79 1-3 


82 1-6 


85 


90 


72 


81 


84 


87 


90 


95 


76 


85.5 


88 2-3 


915-6 


95 


100 


80 


90 


93 1-3 


96 2-3 


100 



Example. What is the production in yards per week 
of 48 hours of a loom running 160 picks per minute, 
weaving a cloth with 120 picks per inch, at 80% ? 

160 picks X 64 constant 

= 85 1-3 yards, ^n.f. 

120 picks per inch 

The preceding constants are based on the following: 



100 Practical Cottox Calculations 

60 minutes X hours per week X % production 
36 inches per yard 

The cloth production tables on pages 97 and 98 are 
based on 100% production for 10 hours, no allowance 
being made for stoppages. 

Owing to the tables being computed for 10 hours, 
they are very convenient when requirng 

To Find % Production of a Loom when Hours 
Run, Speed of Loom, Picks per Inch and 
Actual Production in Yards Are Known. 

Rule 83. Multiply picks per inch by yards produced 
and by .6, and divide by speed of lloom and number of 
hours run. 

The .6 is obtained by dividing 36 inches per yard by 
60 minutes per hour. 

Example. The actual production of a loom running 
150 picks per minute, weaving a cloth with 80 picks pet 
inch, is 23 yards, in 10 hours. . What is the % produc- 
tion? 

80 picks per inch X ~3 yards X .6 

= 73.6%, Ans. 

150 speed of loom X 10 

To Find Production of Cloth, in Yards per 
Loom, for Any Number of Hours, at Any 
Desired %. 

Rule 84. Multiply the production for 10 hours at 
100% (see tables, pages 97 and 98) by the number of 
hours run and the % of production desired, and divide 
by 10. 



Practical Cottox Calculatioxs 101 

Example. A cloth with 60 picks per inch is desired 
to be woven on a loom running 160 picks per minute. 
What would be the production per week of 58 hours at 
80%? 

According to the table the production for 10 hours 
at 100% would be 44.4 yards, therefore 

44.4 yards X 58 hours X .80 

—^ = 206 yds., A ns. 

10 hours 

Rule 82 may be used 

To Find the Number of Cuts per Loom 
per Week 

by dividing the number of yards per week by the length 
of the cut. 



LOOM CALCULATIONS 

To Find Constant to Use for Any Loom Take- 
Up Motion. 

Rule 85. Multiply all the driven gears together and 
divide by alii the drivers multiplied fof/ether. 

The circumference of the sand roller in inches is con- 
sidered a driver. If the motion takes up every two picks, 
the driven gears should be multiplied by 2. 

It is customary to allow a certain % for the difference 
between the picks per inch in the cloth while in the 
loom and after leaving the loom. This may be done 
by deducting a certain %, varying from 1 to 3%, accord- 
ing to the motion used, from the circumference of the 
sand roller. 



102 Practical Cottox Calculations 

To Find Change Gear or Picks per Inch on 
Looms where the Change Gear is a 
Driver, when Constant is Known. 

Rule 86. Divide the constant by jAcks per inch to 
pnd change gear. Divide constant by change gear to 
find picks per inch. 

When the change gear is a driver, the constant is 
always a dividend. 

To Find Change Gear of Picks per Inch on 
Looms where the Change Gear is a 
Driven Gear, when Constant is Known. 

Rule 87. Divide picks per inch by constant to find 
change gear. Multiply change gear by constant to find 
picks per inch. 

The sand roller gear and every alternate gear from 
that are driven gears. All the remaining gears are 
drivers. 



SPEED CALCULATIONS 

To Find Speed of Shafting, when Diameter of 
Driving Pulley, Diameter of Loom Pulley, 
and Speed of Loom Are Known. 

Rule 88. Multiply diameter of loom pulley by speed 
of loom, and divide by diameter of driving pulley. 

Example. What is the speed of shafting required 
to run a loom 145 picks per minute, with a 14-inch pulley 
on the loom and a 7-inch pulley on the shaft? 
14-inch pulley on loom X 145 picks per minute 

7-inch pulley on shaft 

= 290 revolutions per minute, Ans. 



PUACTICAI. COTTOX CaT-CULATIOXS 103 

To Find Diameter of Driving Pulley, when 
Speed of Shafting, Diameter of Loom 
Pulley, and Speed of Loom Are Known. 

Rule 89. Multiply diameter of loom pulley by speed 
of loom, and divide by speed of shaftiny. 

Example. What diameter of pulley will be required 
on a shaft running 290 revolutions per minute to run 
a loom 145 picks per minute with a 14-inch pulley? 
14-inch pullej^ X 145 picks per min. 

Tr~r — ;- — ~7 = 7 ins. diameter of 

390 R. P. M. , . . 

driving pulley, ^«s. 

To Find Diameter of Loom Pulley, when 
Speed of Loom, Speed of Shafting, and 
Diameter of Driving Pulley Are Known. 

Rule 90. Multiply speed of shafting by diameter of 
driviny pulley, and divide by speed of loom. 

Example. A loom is required to run 145 picks per 

minute. The speed of the shaft is 290 R. P. M. and the 

diameter of the pulley on the shaft is 7 inches. What 

diameter of loom pulley will be required? 

290 R. P. M. X T ins. driving pulley 

7TZ 7~, : = 14 ins. diameter of 

14o picks per min. 

loom pulley, Ans. 



104 Practical Coitox Caixulatioxs 

To Find Speed of Loom, when Speed of Shaft- 
ing, Diameter of Driving Pulley, and 
Diameter of Loom Pulley Are Known. 

Rule 91. Multiply speed of ahaft'tnf/ by diameter of 
driving pulley, and divide by diameter of loom pulley. 

Example. What will be the speed of a loom with a 
14-inch pulley, the speed of shafting- being; 290 R. P, M. 
and the diameter of the driving pulley T inches? 

290 R. P. M. X T ins. driving pulley 

■ 77"; — ; t: =■ 115 picks per min., 

14-in. loom pulley 

A ns. 

The four preceding rules, 88 to 91, may be summar- 
ized in the follow^ing — 

Formula D. To Find Speed of Shafting, 
Diameter of Driving Pulley, Diameter of 
Loom Pulley, or Speed of Loom. 

Speed of shafting X diameter of driving pulley is 

equal to 

Diameter of loom pulley X speed of loom. 

Rule. Divide the product of the remaining items of 
the gro-up containing the required item into the product 
of the other group. 

When the numbers foimd are too large for practical 
purposes, use smaller numbers that are in direct ratio 
with them. 



COST CALCULATIONS 



To Find Weaving Cost per Yard when Week- 
ly Rate and Production Are Known. 

Rule 92. Divide the weekly rate by the production 
in yards per week. 

Example. If the production of a loom is 150 yards 
per week, the weekly rate $19.50, and the looms per set 
5, what would be the weaving price per yard of cloth? 

150 yards X 5 looms =z 750 yards per week 
$19.50 weekly rate 



750 yds. per week 



= $.0-?6 weaving cost per yd., A ns. 



$19.50 

or = $3.90 per loom 

5 looms 



$3.90 

1= $.026 weaving cost per yard., Arts. 



150 yards per loom 



To Find Weaving Cost per Cut when Weekly- 
Rate, Length of Cut, and Production per 
Week Are Known. 

Rule 93. Multiply the weekly rate by the length of 
cut and divide by the production per week. 

Using the preceding example what would be the 
weaving cost per cut of 100 yards? 



106 Practical Cottox Calculations 

$19.50 weekly rate X 100 yds. cut length 

. = $2.60 weaving 

750 yds. production per week ^ost per cut, A ns. 

To Find Cost per Yard for Oversigfht when 
Production and Oversight per Loom per 
Week Are Known. 

Rule 94. Divide the oversight per looin by the pro- 
duction. 

ExA3iPLE. If a plain loom produces 160 yards per 
week, and the oversight per loom per week is 62 cents, 
what would be the oversight cost per yard? 

$.6-2 oversight 

=$,0039 oversight per j'^ard, Ans. 

160 yards 

To Find General Expense per Yard when 
Production and General Expense per 
Loom per Week Are Known. 

Rule 95. Diinde the general expense per loom by 
the production. 

Example. If a loom produces 145 yards per week, 
and the genral expense per loom is $3.48, what would 
be the cost per yard for general expense? 

$3.48 

=$.024 general expense per yd., Ans. 

145 yards 

To Find General Expense per Pound of Cloth 
when General Expense per Loom, Yards 
per Week per Loom and Number of 
Yards per Pound Are Known. 

Rule 96. MuUipIiy the general expense per loom by 



Practical Cotton Calculations 107 

the number of yards per pound and divide by the nmm-- 
ber of yards per "week. 

Example. If the general expense in a mill is esti- 
mated ai $3.60 per loom per week, what would be the 
general expense per pound of a piece of cloth 5.3 yards 
per pound produced at the rate of 130 yards per week 
per loom? 

$3.60 general expense per loom X 5.3 yards per lb 

130 yards per week 
= $.1468 general expense per lb., Ans. 

To Find Cost of Stock per Pound of Cloth, in 
a Cloth Containing more than One Qual- 
ity of Cotton and More than One Counts 
of Yarn when Cost of Cotton per Pound 
and % of Each Counts of Yarn Are 
Known. 

Rule 97. Multiply the % of each yarn by the cost 
of cotton per pound. Add results. 

Example. A cloth contains 37% of 18c. cotton and 
63% of 24c. cotton. What is the cost of stock per pound 
of cloth? 

37% or .37 X .18 = $.0666 

63% or .63 X .24 = .1512 



.$.2178 per lb., Ans. 

To Find Cost of Yarns per Cut when Weight 
and Cost per Pound of Each Are Known. 

Rule 98. Multiply the weight of each by the cost 
per pound. Add results. 



108 Practical Cottok Calculatioxs 

Example. A cloth contains 5 lbs. of warp and ^^/^ 
lbs. of filling. If the warp costs 36c. and the filling 
38c. per lb., what would be the cost of the yarns in the 
cloth? 

5 lbs. warp X $.36 = $1 .80 
4.5 lbs. warp X .38= 1.75 



$3.55, Ans. 

To Find Cost of Yams per Yard of Cloth 
when Total Cost of Cut and Length of 
Cut are Known. 

Rule 99. Divide the cost per cut by the length. 

Example. The yarn in a cut of cloth 100 yards long 
cost $7.60. What is the cost of the yarns per yard of 
cloth? 

$7.60 

$.076 cost of yarns per yard, Ans. 



100 yards 



To Find Cost of Yams in a Warp when 
Counts, Length, Number of Ends and 
Price per Pound Are Known. 

Rule 100. Multiply the length of the warp in 
yards by the immber of ends in the warp and the price 
per pound and divide by 84O and the yarn counts. 

ExA3iPLE. A cotton warp 1200 yards long contains 
2700 ends of 35's yarn. The yarn price is 5-?c. per pound. 
What is the cost of the warp? 

2700 ends X 1200 yards X $.52 

= $57.32, Ans. 



840 X 35's warp counts 



Practical Cotton Calculatioxs 109 

To Find Cost of Filling in a Piece of Cloth 
when Length of Piece, Width in Reed, 
Picks, Counts, and Price per Pound of 
Filling Are Known. 

Rule 101. Multiply length of piece by "width in 
reed, picks per inch and price per pound, and divide by 
840 and the filling counts. 

Example. A cut of cloth 56 yards long is woven 30 
inches wide in the reed with TO picks per inch of 40's 
filling. The cost of the filling is 50 cents per pound. 
What is the cost of the filling per cut? 

56 yards X 30 inches in reed X 70 pick X .50 
840 X 40's filling counts 

:==: $1,750 cost of filling, Ans. 

COSTS OF CLOTH 

In cloth mills the product from which the income is 
realized is cloth, therefore an important branch of tex- 
tile caluclations in a cloth mill consists in estimating 
costs of cloth. 

The cost of a piece of cloth, which is figured a4 so 
much per yard, or so much per pound, or both, is usually 
estimated in the office from items furnished by the 
various overseers. 

As all textile calculations enter either directly or in- 
directly into, and lead up to the final cost of the cloth, 
the rules in the earlier part of this book are given, al- 
though all of them are not necessary for any one piece of 
cloth. 



110 Practical Cottok Calculatioxs 

The preceding rules have been given so that any one 
item may be found with verj' little trouble, and it is in- 
tended in the succeeding pages to show how the cost of 
any cloth may be ascertained. 

As the methods of estimating costs vary in different 
mills, one method only will be explained here; part of 
the items dealt with in explaining this, or other items 
calculated from them, are usually required in every mill. 

For convenience in dealing with mill calculations it is 
customary to use what are termed blanks, upon which 
are printed various items. Against these items overseers 
of the various departments write out the necessary data. 
In the system to be explained here it will ftrst be shown 
how the various items necessary to fill out the weave- 
room blank are obtained, then how the total cost per 
yard and per pound of cloth are estimated. 

In the following blank the words and figures shown 
in italic type are supposed to be printed. The remaining 
figures and letters show the data necessary for the pro- 
duction of a certain piece of cloth, which will be taken 
as an example in explaining the items and how they are 
obtained. 



Practical Cottox Calculations 111 

System of Filling: Out Blank with Weave 
Room Data for a Piece of Cloth. 

BLANK NUMBER 1 

1. Pattern number. 26. 

2. Kind of cloth. Leno. 

56 

3. Sleij. ^_ 4' Pick. 80. 

5. Warp counts, No. of ends of each, and contraction 

and size. 

200 ends 4/32's, 20% contraction. 
300 ends 2/32's, 15% contraction. 
2184 ends 50's, 10% contraction and size. 

6. Filling counts. 60's. 

7. Width of cloth. 28 inches. 
*S'. Width in reed. 30 inches. 
9. Yards per pound. 6.02. 

10. Looms per set, 4. 11. Speed. 150. 

12. Per cent, of production. 80. 

13. Weekly rate. $20.00. 
1//. Yards per iceek (48 hours). 120. 

15. Weaving cost per yard. $.0417. 

16. Counts and weight of yarn in 100 yards of cloth. 

Warp. 4/32's, 3.56 pounds. 
2/32's, 2.56 
50's, 5.72 

17. Filling. 60's, 4.76 



18. 16.60 pounds, Total weight in 100 

yards of cloth. 



112 Practical Cottox Calculatioks 

Explanation of Items in Weave Room Blank 

1. Pattern number. This item will readily explain 
itself. 

2. Kind of cloth. Against this is placed leno, plain, 
bedford cord, etc., according to style made. 

3 and ^. 8ley and pick. These are found from the 
cloth to be made by the designer, or by the weave room 
overseer, if the latter does the designing. The count oi 
the cloth mentioned here is 5Q X80. The 128 shown 
under the sley reed represents the average sley, and is 
found from items 5 and 7 by Rule 51 as follows: 

3584 total ends 

=128 average sley. 

28 ins. width of cloth 

The average count of the cloth is 128 X 80. 

5. Warp counts, number of ends of each, and con- 
traction and size. The warp counts are usually found by 
comparison, as explained on page 12, or by weighing as 
in Rule 1. The number of ends of each counts are ob- 
tained by Rule 25. The amount to allow for contraction 
and size are estimated by the designer. 

Ply cotton yards are not usually sized. 

6. Filling counts. If the weight of the cloth is of 
secondary importance, which is usually the case in fancy 
cotton goods, the filling is varied, if necessary, until a 
counts is obtained that makes the appearance of the cloth 
satisfactory. When the counts of the filling is decided 
upon in this manner, the yards per pound, item 9, may 



Practical Cottox Calculations 113 

be found by Rule 68, after finding item 18. See exam- 
ple after explanation of item 9, If items 5 and 9 are 
found before the filling- counts, the latter may be found 
from items 4, 8 and 17 by Rule 37. 
Example. 

80 pick X 30 in. at reed X 100 yds. 

— — = 60's counts of filline 

840 X 4.76 lbs. of filling ^ 

Note how the weight of the filling, item 17, is ob- 
tained. 

7. Width of cloth. This is usually given to the de- 
signer by the superintendent. 

S. Width at reed. This may be found from items 3 
and 7 by Rule 63. 

Example. 

56 sley X ^8 inches width of cloth 

26.19 dents per inch in reed X 3 ends per dent = 29.93 

inches, say 30 inches width in reed 

In the table on page 68 a 56 sley gives 26.19 dents 
per inch in the reed. 

In dealing with the contraction of a fancy cloth it is 
necessary that a person shall have considerable practical 
experience before he can judge what to allow for con- 
traction, and it is advisable that the notes on pages 62 
to 66 be thoroughly understood and borne in mind. 

9. Number of yards 'per pound. Cloths are some- 
times made to a certain weight and the counts of yarns 
varied to make this weight; other cloths are made with 
given yarns and the weight figured from these. In both 
these methods item 5 is usually found in the same man- 
ner. 



114 Practical Cottox Calculatioxs 

If items 5 and the weight of the cloth are known, 
the filling, item 6, may be found from items 4, 8 and 17 
by Rule 37. See example after explanation of item 6. 

If item 18 is known, item 9 may be figured from this 
by Rule 68. 

Example. Item, 18 gives 16.60 lbs. of yarn in 100 
yards of cloth. 

100 yards 

= 6.0^ yards per lb. 

16.60 lbs. 

Item 10. Looms jyer set; 11. Speed of loom; 12. Per 
cent, production; and 13. Weekly rate; are all estimated 
according to the width of cloth, quality of yarn, type of 
loom, and difficulty of pattern. 

It is while running a sample that any difficulties that 
are liable to be met with later in making an order of 
goods like the sample should be noted. The probable 
diffiiculties cannot always be noticed when making the 
sample, but should be when possible because the less 
the production, from any cause, the more the cost. If 
the actual production falls below that estimated, the 
margin between the eost and selling price gets smaller. 

Item 13 is mutually fixed! by the head official and 
weave room overseer. 

14. Yards per week. This may be found from items 
4, 11, and U by Rule 84. 

15. Weaving cost per yard. This may be found 
from items 10, 13 and 14 by Rule 92. 

Example, 130 yards X 4 looms = 480 yards pe^ 
week from 4 looms. 



Practical Cottox Calculations 115 

$30 weekly rate -f- 480 yards = $.0417 weaving cost 
per yard. 

16. Counts and weight of warp yarns in 100 yards of 
cloth. The counts of warp are obtained as stated in ex- 
planation of item 5. The weight is obtained from item 
5 and length by Rule 17. 

Example. 

800 ends X 100 yards 

--— — — -— =2.97 + 20% =3.56 pounds of 

840 X 32's counts ^^^^,^ 

or, 800 ends X 130 yards 

= 3.56 lbs. of 4/32's 

840 X 32's counts 

Note. The length of 100 yards is taken instead of 1 
yard because it does not deal with so many small 
amounts, and instead of any other number between 1 and 
100 because fewer figures are dealt with. When multi- 
plying by 100, it is only necessary to add 2 ciphers at 
the rig^it of the multiplicand, or to move the point 2 
places to the right if the decimal fraction. 

17. Weight of filling in 100 yards of cloth. This is 
figured out from items 4, 6 and 8 by Rule 34. 

Example. 

80 pick X 30 ins. X 100 yds. 

— — = 4.76 lbs. weight of fiUina;. 

840 X 60's counts 

If item 6 is not known, item 17 may be found by de- 
ducting the combined weights of the warps from the 
weight of the cut, item 18. 

The loss by waste was not considered in the above 
examples when finding items 16 and 17. The waste item 
is usually added in the oifice when computing the cost. 



116 Practical Cottox Calculations 

18. Weight of cut. Say 100 yards. This may be 
found by adding items 16 and 17 together, or by divid- 
ing the length of cut by item 9, the number of yards pei 
pound. 

Item 13 may be said to cover the weaving cost of 
cloth. To this must be added other costs which are nec- 
essary; these wliich are computed and arranged in the 
office are here numerically arranged as follows: 

19. Oversight per loom per week. 
'20. Cost of stock. 

2\. Cost of labor in making yarn. 

22. General expense per loom per week. 

Explanation of Items to Be Had in Office 

19. Oversight i:)er loom per week. These are probable 
expenses in the weave room to pay for overseer, fixers, 
all day help other than weavers, and supplies. This is a 
fixed figure, estimated at so much per loom, based on 
previous reports, say for six months, and verified and 
corrected from time to time. The oversight varies In 
different mills according to the time run, and efficiency 
of the help and management; 84c. for fancy, and Q2c. for 
plain looms will be considered here for oversight. 

20. Co.H of Stock. Against this is marked the pre- 
vailing price of raw material of the quality of cotton 
used. 

31. Cost of labor in making yarns. This is computed 
from production sheets, pay rolls and reports of the over- 
seers of the various departments from the picker to 
the spinning room, and is stated at so much per pound. 



Practical Cotton Calculations 117 

Items 20 and 31 may be shown together on a blank 
in the office, along with the counts of the yarns, as 
follows : 



BLANK NUMBER 2 
Cost of Yams per Pound 



Counts 


Stock Quality 


Price 


Labor 


Total 


4/33 


A. 11/8 ins. 


34c. 


9.4c. 


33.4c. 


2/33 


A. l%ins. 


34c. 


9.8c. 


33.8c. 


50's 


B. 11/4 ins. 


38c. 


13.4c. 


40.4c. 


GO'S 


B. 114 ins. 


38c. 


14.7c. 


43.7c. 



The above blank only shows the items necessary for 
the cloth given here as an example. In the mill it would 
contain all the counts of yarn that they were making. 

Blank No. 3 takes in cost of spooling, slashing and 
warping, and represents the cost of the yarn deliverd in 
the weave room. 

22. General expense. This is an approximate future 
expense estimated at a certain amount per loom per 
week, and is intended to cover all general expenses, be- 
yond those already indicated, incurred before the cloth 
reaches the buyer. It includes costs for taxes, insurance, 
interest, salaries, supplies, sundries, engineers, yard help, 
.watchman, lighting, oil, power, otfice expenses, cloth 
room, etc., and varies in most mills. The general expense 
will here be assumed to be $3.G0 per loom per week. 

With the data shown on blanks 1 and 3, and the price 
per week per loom for oversight and general expense 
known, the following method is adopted to arrive at the 
cost per yard and per pound of cloth. 



118 Practical Cotton Calculations 

Rule 98 is first applied to find cost of yarns per cut, 
from the items 16, 20 and i21. 

Example. 

3.56 lbs. 4/32 at 33.4c. = 1.18904 

2.56 lbs. 2/32 at 33.8c. = .86528 

5.72 lbs. 50's at 40.4c. = 2.21088 

4.76 lbs. 60's at 42.7c. = 2.03252 



16.60 lbs. total weight $6.39772 total cost of yarns 
per 100 yds. per 100 yards of cloth 

This would be considered as $6.40. 
Rule 99 is next applied to find cost of yarns per yard 
of cloth. 

Example. 
$6.40 cost per cut 



$.064 or 6.4c. cost of yarns per yard 

^^^y^'' of cloth 

Rule 94 is next applied to find cost per yard for over, 
sight. 

Example. 

84c. oversight per loom per week 

=. .5792c. oversight per 

145 yards per loom per week j 

Rule 95 is next applied to find cost per yard for gen- 
eral expense. 

Example. 

$3.60 genl. expense per loom per week 
=: 2.48c. general ex- 

145 yards per loom per week _ ^ ^^^ , 

•^ ^ ^ pense per yd. 



Practical Cottox Calculations 119 

Although the cost per yard for oversight and general 
expense may be found in one problem by adding the 
amount per week for each tog-ether and dividing by the 
number of yards per week, the above method is usually 
adopted so that either one may be referred to again if 
required. 

It is now only necessary to add the various costs 
per yard together. 

Summary of Costs per Yard of Cloth 



Weaving, 


3.448c. 


Yarns, 


6.4 


Oversight, 


.5792 


General expense, 


2.48 



13.9072c. cost per yard. 

The cost per pound of cloth may now be found by 
multiplying the cost per yard by the number of yards 
per pound 

ExA3iPLE. 12.9072c. cost per yard X 6.02 yards per 
pound = 77.70c. cost per pound of cloth. 

In a cloth mill where the yarn is bought on warp 
beams and cops or bobbins, the counts and price per 
pound would be required instead of blank No. 2. 

If the yarn is bought in cone or skein fonn the costs 
entailed during the various processes necessary before 
it reaches the loom must be considered. 

There is no extra cost entailed on filling yarn from 
the time it leaves the spinning frame or mule to the time 
that it reaches the weaver, beyond the cost of handling it. 

Yarn intended for warp must undergo several proc- 
esses before it can be made into cloth, the principal of 
which are spooling, twisting, if for ply yarns, warping, 
slashing and drawing-in. 



130 



Practical Cottok Calculatioxs 



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T^'r! cocococococococ ococo co 

.— 'OCT.^coo^mo omoi-^oocot^^HLnoo 

00 OOOOOIOO — CM • • • m -^ CO CO CM CM ■— " I— 1 o o^ 

r:LT' ^T^ CO CO CO CO cojo co co co cm_ 

CM CM •— • o^ <£> CO OMo o omo -^oocor^ •-• -^ 

t^ 00 CTl Cr> O -H ^- cm CO • • • Tf CO CO CM •— ' -^ O O 05 
_ _— ■ —^ —'.—■.— I CO CO C O coco CO CO COCM_ 

.^ -^ CO CM o r-^ CO 05 LO o o m> o Tj" 00 CO t^ •— 1 

t~-'0C05O>— ■— -CvICMCOtJ- • • •COCMCM^-OOCT^CJJ 
— I ^H — I •-^•— -^ •— ' COCO CO CO CO CO CM CM 

mtDLOTj-coot-^coo)Loo o-^o-^oocMt^ 

t^OOOiO-— 'CMC^JCOCO-ctm • • -CM-— '•— 'OCnOV 00 
^ ■— ._i.— <i— II— 1,— i.— I ,— 1 CO CO CO CM CM C M CM 

to t-~ i^ t-^ mco ot-~-^0)Loo omo-^ooco 

t^OOOJOi— iCMCOCO-^-rfmtO • • -I— lOOO-. 0000 
_ _f— I •—• — I ■— I— I •— I — I r-1 .— I CO C O C O CM C M CM_ 

r^ 05 05 oT 00 to ■* o r^ t^ lo o o -* cd -^ oo 

t^ooojOi— iCMcoTj-TfiomtDt^ ■ • -ocTioooor^ 

. .— i^^T -!.-!.— I.— ii— ir-H •— ij— 1^ CO CVJ CM C M CM 

OOOcrOOO~. C^'S'^^OO-^OOloO O-^OCO 

t^cTiC— 'CMCvicoM-mmiot^it^oo ■ • -cjioooor^ 

—«—' — — ^^•—"—■^^■ —■i—'— II— I C M CM Cvj CM 

OJ'-iCMrOCM^-Ol r"--^"— '00-<3'05L0O O'TOO 

t^ 05 O — CM CO CO -rr m to to t^ t^ OC) CJi • • •00C--<O) 
rlr^.Tr^ "^1— 1^1— '^1— "-"- < CM CM CM 

ocM -* -* -^"co CMOoom-— lOO -^oloo om 

C0O5C— ■c^lco■^mlo^o^-t^ooo>o>o • • -r^to 

■— •— ' — '_— ' T- T — II— II — "—ii— 11— I — CM CM CM 

ocom'-ototrj-^co— loSmcMoo-^OLOo o 

oooio— icMco-*m<otot-^ooooo>ooi— i' • • -to 

^- — <— <^~i— I— I.— 11— II — . ^^^^ I— .CM C M CM CM 

CM'S'tOtDdooOC^lO-^i— 'O^lOC^JOO-^OlOO 

ooctjo — c-ico-^LOtor^r^occy>050— I— iCM • • • 

.— 11— I.— 1^~ — ^^r-i^-— I— ..— i.-i Cv]CMr -]CM 

CMmt^O-O. CftOV00<O-^CM0>VCCM00-^OLbo 

OOOO^-CvlCO-^mtDr^OOOOCT. OO— iCMCMCO • • 
;— ' •— — I — — I ^^ ^ ^- —'_^^^^ Csl CM CM CM CM CM 

cotooooi-ii— ■— '00>t^Lnc^]b5 to'cM oo m- o m o 

OOOlOCMCT'frLOtDtC't^OCO'-OvOi— ii— iCMCOCO-a* • 
J^- ■— I .—I I— I —I —I 'T^J-^ — '^^ CM Cv) CM CM Cv) C^l C M 

CO^~tj-j— iCMCOCOCM — OtaOLOCMOi tOCM OO^ oTo O 

COOlOCMCO-rrmtDt^OCOOa-. OO'-iCMCMCO-^-riO 
— I I— I — . ^^ ■— I — ■ — .— I.— --iCMCMCMCMCMCMCMCMCM 



8 



>^2 



APPENDIX 



SPINDLES 



SINCE 

1849 

FOR 



Cotton, Wool 

and Silk 



A. A. WESTCOTT 
&SONS 

HOPEDALE, MASSACHUSETTS 



USEFUL NOTES ON COTTON SPINNING 
MACHINERY 



Bale Breakers. Floor space, 36 in. machine, 9 ft. 6 
in. X 6 ft. 6 in. Driving- pulleys, 14 in. X 3 in. Speed, 
300 revs, per min. Production, 3000 lb. American per 
hour. Power, li/o I. H. P. 

PoRCurixE Opexer. Floor space, 9 ft. X 6 ft. Driv- 
ing pulleys, 16 in. X 3yo in. Speed, 320 revs, per min. 
Production, 1400 lb. per hour. Power, 2 I. H. P. 

Hopper Feeder. Floor space, 36 in. machine, 7 ft. 3 
in. X 5 ft. Driving pulleys, 10 in. X 3 in. Speed, 300 
revs, per min. Production, 600O lb. per hour. 

Openers. Vertical type. Floor space: Single opener, 
10 ft. 6 in. X 5 ft. 6 in.; double opener, 16 ft. X 5 ft. 6 
in. Driving pulleys, 13 in. X 5 in. Speed of beaters, 
1000 revs, per min. Production, 5000 to 6000 lbs. per 
hour. Power: Single opener, 4 I. H. P.; double opener, 

8 I. H. P. 

Openers. Horizontal type, with large cylinder, 18 in. 
beater and two sets of cages. Floor space: Single opener, 
19 ft. X 6 ft. (38 in. lap); single opener and scutcher 
combined, 3.3 ft, X 7 ft. Driving pulleys: Cylinder, 20 
in. X 5Vo in. Beater, 1-2 in. X ■iV2 in. Speeds: Cylinder, 
4.50 to 500 revs, per min. for American, 300 to 350 revs, 
per. min. for Egyptian and Sea Island. Power: Single 
opener, 5 I. H. P.; single opener and scutcher combined, 

9 I. H. P. 



124 Practical Cotton Calculations 

FixisHER Lappers. FlooT space of lappers with 1 fan 
and 1 beater and lap machine for 40 in. cards, about 14 
ft. X 6 ft. 6 in. With 2 fans and 3 beaters and lap 
machine for 40 in. cards, aboiit 20 ft. 6 in. X 6 ft. 6 in. 
Driving pulley, 10 in. X 4.i/o in. Speed of beater and 
fan, from 1200 to 1500 revs, per min. Production, 200 to 
250 lbs. per hour. Power: Single beater, 3%^ I, H. P.; 
double beater, 7 I. H. P. 

To find diameter of jjulleif on beater shaft: Speed of 
beater X diameter of countershaft pulley for divisor. 
Revolutions of main driving shaft X diameter of driving 
drum on main shaft X drum on countershaft for divi- 
dend = pulley on beater shaft. 

To find speed of fan icken driven from beater: Speed 
of beater X diameter of pulley on beater shaft -^- diam- 
eter of pulley on fan shaft. 

To find the pulley on fan shaft: Speed of beater X 
diameter of pulley -i- speed of fan. 

To find the percentage of loss in cotton when passed 
through a tapper: Loss in weight X 100 -=- weight of cot- 
ton put up at feed end. 

Card, Floor space of card, 40 in. on wire, 10 ft. X 5 
ft. 3 in. Driving pulley, 12 to 20 in. Speed, 160 to 180 
revs, per min. 






Production* 



17 to 22 lb. per hour for Indian. 
10 to 16 " " " American. 
4 to 10 " " " Egyptian. 
[ 3to 5 " " " Sea Island. 



Power, 2-3 to 1 I. H. P. according to width on wire. 

To find total draft: Lap roller wheel X feed roller 
wheel X side shaft bevel X doffer wheel X diameter of 
calender roller -4- lap roller driving wheel X draft wheel 



Practical Cotton Calculations 125 

X side shaft driving bevel X calendar block w^heel X 
diameter of lap roller. 

To find draft between feed roller and dofer: Feed 
roller wheel X side shaft bevel X diameter of doffer -r- 
draft wheel X side shaft driving bevel X diameter of 
feed roller. 

To find length of fillet in feed to cover a cylinder: 
Diameter of cylinder X w^idth of cylinder X 3.1416 h- 
width of fillet X 12 in. 

To find production (calculated) in a given time: 
Working hours X 60 min. X revs, per min. of doffer X 
doffer wheel X calender wheel driving coiler X circum- 
ference of coiler calenders X grains per yard of sliver 
delivered -=- calender pinion X coiler cannon shaft wheel 
X 36 in. X TOGO grains. 

Sliver Lap Machine ; Floor space, 8 ft. X 5 ft. Drlv., 
ing pulley, 16 in. X ^i/o in. Speed 200 revs, per min. 
Production, 40 to 50 lb. per hour. Power, 14 I. H. F. 

Ribbon Lap Machine; Floor space, 14 ft. X 4 ft. 
Driving pulley, 14 in. X 3 in. Speed, 250 revs, per min. 
Production, 40 to 50 lb. per hour. Power, 1 !. H. P. 

Combers. — Heilman — Floor space (8 heads 12 in. lap), 
18 ft. X 3 ft. 6 in. Driving pulleys, 10 to 15 in. X 3 in. 
Speed, 300 to 360 revs, per min. to give 80 to 95 nips on 
single nip machines, and 230 revs, per min. to give 120 
nips on double nip machines. Production: Single nip, 8 
to 12 lb. per hour; double nip, 10 to 15 lb. per hour. 
Power, about 1 I. H. P. 

iVa^m;^;^.— Floor space (6 heads 10% In. lap), 14 ft. X 
3 ft. 6 in. Driving pulleys, 10 in. 



126 Practical Cottox Calculatioxs 



Speeds 



335 revs. (86 nips) for Sea Island. 

350 " (90 '' ) '' Florida. 

370 " (95 " ) " Egypt, and Amer. 

390 " (100 " ) " coarse work. 



Production: A six-head machine at 100 nips per min. 
with 20 dwt. laps, allowing 15 per cent, for waste, will 
produce 16 lb. per hour. Power, about % I. H. P. 

Drawixg Frames. — ^Floor space varies according to 
number of heads and deliveries to each head. Width, in- 
cluding cans if coilers on one side, 4 ft. 6 in.; if cans 
zig-zag, 5 ft. Driving pulley, 16 in. X 3 in. Speeds, 300 
to 300, according to circumstances. Production, 8 to 18 
lb. per hour for finishing delivery. Power, 12 deliveries, 
1 I. H. P. 

To find the hank drawing: Draft in drawing frame X 
hank carding -t- number of ends put up at the frame. 

To find the draft, (jiven hank drawing and hank 
carding: Number of ends put up X hank drawing -r- 
hank carding. 

To find the hank carding, given hank draioing and 
draft: Number of ends put up X hank drawing -~- draft. 

To find weight of drawing, given draft, number of 
ends put up, and weight of carding: Number of ends X 
weight of carding -f- draft. 

To find draft, given weight of draimng and carding: 
Number of ends put up X weight of carding -r- weight 
of drawing. 

To find change pinion when changing from one weight 
to another: Desired weight X change wheel at present on 
-^ present weight of drawing. 



Practical Cotton Calculations 127 

To find change pinion when changing the hank: 
Present pinion X present hank -r- hank wanted. 

To find the draft in a drawing frame: Back roller 
wheel X crown wheel X diameter of front roller -r- 
change pinion X front roller wheel X diameter of back 
roller. 

To find the draft between the first and second rollers: 
Wheel driven by front roller wheel X wheel on second 
roller X diameter of front roller -^ diameter of second 
roller X wheel that drives second roller X front roller 
wheel. 

To find change jyinion for a required draft: Crown 
wheel X back roller wheel -=- front roller wheel X draft. 

To find the calculated 'production in lb. per toeek: 
Revolutions of front roller per minute X 60 mins. X 
working; hours X circumference of front roller -r- 840 X 
36 in. X hank of sliver. 

Fly Frames.— Floor space: Width of slubbing frame, 
4 ft.; intermediate and roving frames, 3 ft. Length ac- 
cording to number of spindles. 

To find the length of a frame: Number of spindles X 
gauge + gearing and off end, including pulley. 

Driving pulleys, 14 to 18 in. X Si^ in. Speeds, 500 to 
1000 revs, of spindle according to machine and class of 
cotton. Power, 50 to 80 spindles per I. H. P. 

To find the speed of the spindles: Speed of main shaft 
X diameter of pulley X shaft wheel on frame end X 
spindle shaft bevel wheel -;- diameter of pulley on frame 
end X spindle shaft wheel X spindle foot wheel. 



]28 Practical Cotton Calculatioks 

To find speed of front roller: Speed of main shaft X 
diameter of pulley X' twist wheel X frame end cone 
shaft wlieel -^ pulley on frame end X cone shaft wheel 
X front roller wheel. 

To find the turns per inch: Speed of spindles X length 
delivered per minute. 

To find the draft: Diameter of front roller X back 
roller wheel X crown wheel -=- diameter of back roller X 
change wheel X front roller wheel. 

To find the change wheel: Crown wheel X back roller 
wheel X diameter of front roller -f- diameter of back 
roller X front roller wheel X desired draft. 

To find the constant number for the draft: Diameter 
of front roller X back roller wheel X crown wheel -^- 
diameter of back roller X front roller wheel = constant 
number. 

To find the hank roving: The constant dividend for a 
given length -f- the weight in grains of that given length 
= hank roving. 

To find the change ivheel when changing the hank: 
Hank being made X change wheel on -f- hank wantea. 

To find the rack loheel when changing the hank: The 
square of the rack wheel on X hank required -=- hank be- 
ing made ; extract square root of quotient. 

To find the production in hanks: Speed of spindles 
per minute X GO mins. X working hours -r- turns per 
inch X 36 in. X 840 yds. 

Roving Waste Opener. — Floor space, 10 ft. 6 in, X 5 
ft. 6 in. Driving pulley, 12 in. X 4i4 in. Speed, 400 revs, 
per min. Production, from 30 to 50 lb. per hour. Power, 
2 I. H. P. 



Practical Cotton Calculations 129 

Self-acting Mule. — ^Floor space: Width, about 20 ft^ 

To find the length: Number of spindles X gauge -h 
space taken up by headstock and two off ends. 

Driving pulleys, 16 to 18 in. X -5. Speed (pulley), 
from 650 to 900. Production varies according to the 
counts spun. 

To find the speed of the spindles: Speed of rim shaft 
pulley X diameter or rim X diameter of tin roller -h 
pulley on tin roller shaft X diameter of spindle wharve. 

To find the turns per inch: Speed of spindles -^ speed 
of front roller X circumference of front roller. 

To find the draft wheel: Diameter of front roller X 
back roller wheel X crown wheel -^ diameter of back 
roller X draft X front roller wheel. 

To find the constant number: Crown wheel X back 
roller wheel X diameter of front roller -^ diameter of 
back roller X draft. 

To find the draft : Counts X length delivered in inches 
-f- length of stretch X hank roving. 

To find the counts of yarn: Draft X hank roving X 
length of stretch -~ length delivered in inches. 

To find the change pinion in changing counts: Counts 
being spun X wheel on at present h- counts wanted. 

To find the production in Jb.: Ximiber of draws per 
minute X length of stretch in inches X working hours X 
60 mins. ^ counts X 840 X 36 in. 

Ring Spinning Frame. — Floor space: Width, 3 ft. 

To find the length of a ring frame: Number of spindles 
on one side X gauge + space taken up by gearing and 
off end, including pulleys. 



130 Practical Cottox Cai-culatioxs 

Driving pulley, 1^ in. X 3% in. Speed, 750 to 900. 
Production varies according to counts. Power, 80 spindles 
on 30's and making about 9500 revs, per 1 I. H. P. 

To find ihe turns per inch: Front roller wheel X twist 
carrier wheel X diameter of tin roller -=- tin roller wheel 
X twist wheel X diameter of wharve X circumfernce of 
front roller. 

To fnd the constant number for ihe twist: Diameter 
of tin roller X twist carrier wheel X front roller wheel 
-7- tin roller wheel X circumference of front roller X 
diameter of wharve. 

To find the ticist change pinion: Constant number -^ 
turns per inch. 

To find the draft : Counts -^- hank roving. 

To find the hank roving: Counts -f- draft. 

To find the jJroduction in lb.: Circumference of front 
roller X revs, per minute X 60 mins. X hours worked -~ 
36 X 840 X counts. 

Thread Extractor. — Floor space, 5 ft. X 4 ft. Driv- 
ing pulley, feed pulley, 151/, X 1^/4- Speed: Counter- 
shaft, 680 revs, per min. Production, 10 to 20 lb. per 
hour. Power, % I. H. P. 



Practical Cottox Calculations 



131 



THERMOMETER. 5CALE5 

Comparative Values in the Centigrade, Fahrenheit, and 
Reaumur Scales of Temperature. 



c 


F 


R 


i ^- 


F 


R. 


lOOo 


212.00 


80.00 


1 

250 


77.00 


20.00 


99 


210.2 


79.2 


24 


75.2 


19.2 


98 


208.4 


78.4 


23 


73.4 


18.4 


97 


206.6 


77.6 


22 


71.6 


17.6 


96 


204 8 


76.8 


21 


69.8 


16.8 


95 


203 


76.0 


20 


68.0 


16.0 


94 


201.2 


75.2 


19 


66.2 


15.2 


93 


199.4 


74.4 


18 


64.4 


14.4 


92 


197 6 


73.6 


17 


62.6 


13.6 


91 


195.8 


72.8 


16 


60.8 


12.8 


90 


194.0 


72.0 


15 


59.0 


12.0 


89 


192.2 


71.2 


14 


57.2 


11.2 


88 


190 4 


70.4 


13 


55.4 


10.4 


87 


188.6 


69.6 


12 


53.6 


9.6 


86 


186.8 


68.8 


11 


51.8 


8.8 


85 


185.0 


68.0 


10 


50.0 


8.0 


84 


193.2 


67.2 


9 


48.2 


7.2 


83 


181.4 


66.4 


8 


46.4 


6.4 


82 


179.6 


65.6 


7 


44.6 


5.8 


81 


177,8 


84.8 


6 


42.8 


4.8 


80 


176.0 


64.0 


5 


41.0 


4.0 


79 


174.2 


63.2 


4 


39.2 


3.2 


78 


172.4 


62.4 


3 


37.4 


2.4 


77 


170.6 


61.6 


2 


35.6 


1.6 


76 


168.8 


60.8 


1 


33.8 


0.8 


75 


167.0 


60.0 


Zero 


32.0 


Zero 


74 


165.2 


59.2 


1 


30.2 


0.8 


73 


163.4 


58.4 


2 


28.4 


1.6 


72 


161.6 


57.6 


3 


26.6 


2.4 


71 


159.8 


56.8 


4 


24.8 


3.2 


70 


158.0 


56.0 


5 


23.0 


4.0 


69 


156.2 


55.2 


6 


21.2 


4.8 


68 


154.4 


54.4 


7 


19.4 


5.6 


67 


152.6 


53.6 


8 


17.6 


6.4 


66 


150.8 


52.8 


9 


15.8 


7.2 


65 


149.0 


52.0 


10 


14.0 


8.0 


64 


147.2 


51.2 


11 


12.2 


8.8 


63 


145.4 


50.4 


12 


10.4 


9.6 


62 


143.6 


49.6 


13 


8.6 


10.4 


61 


141.8 


48.8 


14 


6.8 


11.2 


60 


140.0 


48.0 


15 


5.0 


12.0 


59 


138.2 


47.2 


16 


3.2 


12.8 


58 


136.4 


46.4 


17 


1.4 


13.6 


57 


134.3 


45.6 


18 


Zero 


14.4 


56 


132.8 


44.8 


19 


2.2 


15.2 


55 


131.0 


44.0 


20 


4.0 


16.0 


54 


129.2 


43.2 


21 


5.8 


16.8 


53 


127.4 


42.4 


22 


7.6 


17.6 


52 


125.6 


41.6 


23 


9.4 


18.4 



132 



Practical Cotto^t Calculations 



THERMOMETER, .SCALES 

Comparative Values in the Centigrade, Fahrenheit, and 
Reaumur Scales of Temperature. 



c. 


F. 


R. 


c. 


F. 


R. 


510 


123.80 


40.80 


240 


11.2« 


19.20 


50 


122.0 


40.0 


25 


13.0 


20.0 


49 


120.2 


39.2 


26 


14.8 


20.8 


48 


118.4 


38.4 


27 


16.6 


21.6 


47 


116.6 


37.6 


28 


18.4 


22.4 


46 


114.8 


36.8 


29 


20.2 


23.2 


45 


113.0 


36.0 : 


30 


22.0 


24.0 


44 


111.2 


35.2 : 


31 


23.8 


24.8 


43 


109.4 


34.4 


32 


25.6 


25.6 


42 


107.6 


33.6 ; 


33 


27.4 


26.4 


41 


105.8 


32.8 1 


34 


29.2 


27.2 


40 


104.0 


32.0 


35 


31.0 


28.0 


39 


102.2 


31.2 


36 


32.8 


28.8 


38 


100.4 


30.4 i 


37 


34.6 


29.6 


37 


98.6 


29.6 j 


38 


36.4 


30.4 


36 


96.8 


28.8 1 


1 39 


38.2 


31.2 


35 


95.0 


28.0 1 


1 40 


40.0 


32.0 


34 


93.2 


27.2 1 


41 


41.8 


32.8 


33 


91.4 


26.4 1 


! 42 


43.6 


33.6 


32 


89.5 


25.6 


1 43 


45.4 


34.4 


31 


87.8 


24.8 ' 


! 44 


47.2 


35.2 


30 


86.0 


24.0 


i 45 


49.0 


36.0 


29 


84.2 


23.2 


46 


50.8 


36.8 


28 


82.4 


22.4 


47 


52.6 


37.6 


27 


80.6 


21.6 


48 


54.4 


38.4 


26 


78.8 


20.8 


49 


56.2 


39.2 



CONVERSION OF THERMOMETER 
DEGREES 

Centigrade (C) Fahrenheit (F) Reaumur (R) 

C to R. Multiply by .80; 

C to F. " " 1.80; then add 32; 

R to C. " " 1.25; 



R to F. 



then add 32; 



F to R. First deduct 32, then multiply by 4 and 
divide by 9. 

F toC. First deduct 32, then multiply by 5 and 
divide by 9. 



INDEX 



Rulp 
Number Page 

Average counts of cloth 59 

Average counts of filling in cloth contain- 
ing Q or more counts of filling 41 50 

Average counts of yarn in a set of warps 

containing different counts of yarn... 20 36 

Average counts of yarn in cloth, from 

ends in warp, pick, width in reed and 

3'ards per pound 43 51 

Average counts of yarn in cloth from sley, 

pick, width and yards per pound 43,44 53 

Average counts of yarn in cloth from sley, 

pick, counts of warp and filling 45 53 

Average counts of yarn in cloth with only 

one counts of warp in a cramped stripe 54 

Average counts of yarn in cloth containing 

more than one counts of warp 46, 47 54 

Average counts of yarn in cloth from per 

cent, warp, per cent, filling, and counts 

of warp and filling 48 5b 

Average counts of yarn from a small piece 

of cloth 49, 50 57 

Average pick when check pegs are used. . . 53,54 59 

Average sley from ends in warp and width 

of cloth 51 59 

Average sley in an unequally reeded stripe, 

from sley and warp layout 52 58 

Beam yarn and warp calculations Si 

Beam, counts of yarn on a, from length, 

weight and number of ends 16 31 



134 Ikdex 

Rule 
Number Page 

Beam, weight of yarn on a 17 S2 

Beam, ends on a, from counts, weight and 

length 19 35 

Breaking weights of American yarns 95 

Cable yarns ~4 

Change gear to give a certain number of 

picks per inch 86, 87 101 

Check peg patterns, caluculations for 60 

Check pegs to use per pattern 56, 57 61 

Cloth analysis 71 

Cloth calculations 51 

Cloth contraction 6;J 

Cloth, yards per pound of 69-71 77 

Cloth, ounces per yard of 72 78 

Cloth production 99 

Contraction, percentage of, in length from 

warp to cloth 58 64 

Constants or constant numbers 8 

Constant to use for loom take-up motion 85 101 

Conversion of thermometer degrees 132 

Cost calculations 105 

Cost of filling in a piece of cloth 101 109 

Cost of a piece of cloth 109 

Cost of oversight per yard 94 106 

Cost of stock per pound of cloth 97 107 

Cost of weaving per yard 92 105 

Cost of yarn per cut 98 107 

Cost of yarns per pound 117 

Cost of yarns per yard of cloth 99 108 

Cost of yarn in a warp 100 108 

Costs per yard of cloth, sumTnary of 119 



Index 13A 



Rule 
Number Page 

33 



Cotton yarn, table of counts and lengths of 

Counts of cloth, average 58 

Counts, length or weight of cotton yarn 

(formula "A") 30 

Counts, number of hanks or weight (for- 
mula "B") 31 

Counts, weight, length or ends on a beam 

(formula "C") 35 

Counts, comparing yarns for 13 

Counts, weighing short lengths of yarn for 13 

Counts, from length and weight 1, 2, 10 14, 29 

Counts, from number of leas and weight. . 3 14 

Counts, from weight and number of hanks 14 30 
Counts, systems of numbering yarns of 

various materials for 20 

Counts, equivalent 20 

Counts, equivalent, of cotton to a given 

counts of other materials 21 

Counts, equivalent, of raw silk (yards per 

ounce system), spun silk, worsted, 

woolen and linen to a given cotton 

counts 4 20 

Counts, equivalent of raw silk (denier and 

dram systems) to a given cotton 

counts 23 

Counts of twisted, or ply and cable yarns 24 

Counts of single yarns equal to a ply yarn 

composed of 2 or more single yarns of 

unequal counts 5, 6 -25 

Counts of yarn to twist with a given yarn 

to produce a required ply yarn 7 26 

Counts of spun silk ply yarns 28 



136 Index 



Rule 
Number Page 



Counts of yarn on a beam from length. 

weight and number of ends 10 31 

Counts of yarn in a set of warps -20 3G 

Counts of yarn, from the weight of a few 

inches 39 41 

Counts of warp or filling required to give 

a certain number of yards per pound 37 46 

Counts of filling required, from sley, pick, 

warp and average counts 3!* 48 

Counts of filling required, from sley, pick, 

width, warp and yards per pound. ... 35/ 4P 

Counts of filling required in a cloth con- 
taining -2 different counts of filling 

yarn 40 4? 

Denier system of counts in raw silk com- 
pared to dram silk and U. S. cotton 
counts systems 33 

Dents per inch in reed to produce a given 

sley 60 o'7 

Dents per inch of reed, table of 6y 

Dents, numiber of, occupied by an equally 

reeded warp G4 71 

Diameter of driving pulley 89 103 

Diameter of loom pulley. 90 103 

Diameters of yarns 80, 81 92 

Dram system of counts in raw silk com- 
pared to denier silk and U. S. cotton 
counts systems 2?i> 

Ends on a beam, from counts, weight and 

length IP 35 

Ends, number of, in an equally reeded 

warp 21 3G 



Index 137 

Rule 
Number Paga 

Ends, number of, In nn unequally reeded 

pattern, from sley, widtli and warp 

layout 95 39 

Equivalent counts 20 

Equiv^alent counts in various systems, short 

methods to find 20 

Expense per yard of cloth, general 95 106 

Expense per pound of cloth, general 96 105 

Filling calculations, warp and 41 

Filling calculations ■. 43 

Filling, weight of. per cut from per cent- 

of filling 30 41 

Filling, required per day, weight of 31 43 

Filling, hanks of, in a piece of cloth 3;? 43 

Filling, per cut, weight of 34 44 

Filling, counts of, required to give a cer- 
tain nwmber of yards per pound 37 46 

Filling, counts of, required from sley, pick, 

warp counts and ^average counts.... 38 49 

Filling, counts of, required from sley, pick, 
width, warp counts and yards per 
pound 39 49 

Filling, counts of, required in a cloth con- 
taining two different counts of filling 
yarn 40 49 

Filling, average counts of, in a piece of 
cloth containing 2 or more counts of 
filling 41 50 

Filling, percentage of 73-77 83 

Filling, cost of, in a piece of cloth 101 109 

Gear, change, to use to give a certain 

numiber of picks per inch , 86-87 101 

Glossary of technical words and terms. ... 5 



138 Index 



Rale 
Nvimber Page 





14 


15 


31 


'22 


37 


23 


37 


33 


43 




80 




11 




11 



Ground picks per inch, from average pick, 
number of teeth used per pattern and 
picks per pattern 55 OO 

Hank of roving, number of 

Hanks, from weight and counts 

Hanks of warp yarn in a piece of cloth. . . 
Hanks in a warp, from ends and leng-th 
Hanks of filling, from pick, width in reed 

and length 

Hanks of yarn, warp or filling, in 100 

yards of cloth, table of 

Length for cotton, standard of 

length and weight standards 

Length, weight or counts of cotton yarn 

(formula 'VV') 30 

I,ength, weight, counts or number of ends 

on a beam (formula 'C") 

Length and counts table 

Length, from counts and weight 

Length of yarn on a beam, from weight, 

counts and number of ends 

Length of yarn on a warp, from number 

of hanks and number of ends 

Length of cloth that can be woven with a 

given counts and weight of filling.... 
Length of warp required for a given 

lengths of cloth in lenos, lappets, etc. 
Loom calculations 

Metric system compared to L"^. S. cotton 
counts system 

Numbering cotton yarn, standard for.... 





35 




33 


11 


29 


18 


34 


24 


38 


33 


43 


59 


G5 




101 




20 




16 



IliTDEX 139 

Rule 
Number Page 

Numbering yarns of various materials, 

systems of ^ 

Ounces per yard, from yards per pound.* 65 74 
Ounces per yard, from a small piece of 

cloth 72 79 

Oversight per yard, cost of 94 106 

Patterns, number of, in an unequally reed- 
ed cloth 26 39 

Percentage of contraction in length from 

warp to cloth .58 64 

Percentage of warp or filling in any cloth 73 82 

Percentage of warp or filling in any cloth, 

from ends, pick, warp, filling and 

width 74 84 

Percentage of warp or filling in cloth, 

from sley, pick, warp and filling 

counts 76 85 

Percentage of warp or filling in cloth, 

from weighi of warp and weight of 

cut 7.5 85 

Percentage of warp or filling in cloth, 

from sley, pick, average counts and 

warp 5 77 86 

Per cent, of production of a loom S;J-84 99 

Pick, average, when check pegs are used . . 53, .54 59 

Picks per inch, ground, from average pick, 

number of teeth used and picks per 

pattern 55 60 

Ply and cable yarns, counts of twisted or i?4 

Ply yarns, counts of, composed of 2 or 

more single yarns of unequal counts.. 5. 6 25 



140 Index 



Rule 
Number Page 



Ply yarn, counts of a yarn to twist with 

a given yarn to produce a required.. 7 36 

Ply yarns, counts of spun silk 2^ 

Production tables, cloth 07, 98 

Production of cloth per week 83 99 

Raw silk calculations 22 

Raw silk counts, compared to cotton counts 23 

Reed calculations OH 

Reed to use for unequally reeded patterns 62 69 
Reed, w^idth in, from sley and width of 

cloth 63 70 

Reed, dents per inch in, for a given sley. . 60 67 

Reed table 73 

Reeling yarns 14 

Size, per cent, of, on warp yarns 27 40 

Sley that would be woven with a reed of 

a given number of dents per inch. ... 61 69 
Sley, average, from ends and width of 

cloth 51 59 

Sley, average, in an unequally reeded 

stripe from sley and warp layout.. 52 59 

Speed calculations 102 

Speed of shafting : 88 102 

Speed of loom 91 101 

Spun silk ply yarns, counts of 28 

Square root of numbers 1 to 140 90, 91 

Square yards in a cut of cloth 78, 79 87 

Standards of lengths and weights for tex- 
tile materials 11 

Systems of filling out blank with weave 

room data for a piece of cloth Ill 



Index 141 

Rale 
Number Page 

Tables for counting cotton yarn from 

weight in grains of 120 yards 16-20 

Table for ply yarns 120 

Tables of cloth production 97, 9S 

Table of dents per inch in reed to pro- 
duce any even numliered sley from 48 

to 132 68 

Table of dents per 1-20 inch (1 to 20) to 
weave cloths with from 48 to 112 sley 

ground 73 

Table of lengths and comits 8 

Table of length and weight 9 

Tables of hanks of yarn, warp or filling, 

in 100 yards of cloth 80, 81 

Table of yards of yarn per pound in 

counts from 1 to 2.50 33 

Take-up in length from warp to cloth. ... .58 64 

Technical words and terms, glossary of . . . ^ 

Testing yarns for counts by comparison., 12 

Testing yarns for strength 93 

Thermometer scales 131, 132 

Twisted or ply and ca1)le yarns, counts of 24 

Twists per inch in yarns 88 

Twist tables 90, 91 

Useful notes on cotton spinning machinery 123-130 

Warp calculations, beam yarn and 31 

Warp, length of, from number of hanks 

and number of ends 24 38 

Warp and filling calculations 41 

Warp required per day, weight of 31 43' 



14S Ikdex 



Rule 
Numbei' Page 



Warp, counts of, from sley, pick filling 

and average counts 3S 4B 

Warp, length of, required for a given 

length of cloth in lenos, lappets, etc.. . 59 65 

Warp, percentage of 73-77 82 

Weaving, cost of 93-93 105 

Weight and length standards 11 

Weight required for each count for a 

given weight of ply yarn 8 25 

Weight required of each counts in a group 

of warps, from counts, number of 

ends of each and total weight 9 97 

Weight, from counts and length 12 29 

Weight, from counts and number of hanks 13 3(? 

Weight, counts or length of cotton yarn 

(formula "A") '. . . . 30 

Weight, counts or number of hanks of 

yarn (formula "B") 3) 

Weight, length, counts or number of ends 

on a beam (formula "C") 35 

Weight of warp in ounces per yard of 

cloth 28 40 

Weight of w'arp per cut from per cent. 

warp 30 4) 

Weight or number of yards per pound 

and ounces per yard 74. 

Weight of yarn on a beam, from length, 

number of ends and counts 17 33 

Weight of warp yarn on beams in tlie 

looms 34 

Weight of warp yarn in a piece of cloth. . 17 32 

Weight of each separate color of filling 

required for colored check fabrics. ... 35 44 



IXDEX 143 

Rule 
Number Page 

Weight of each count or kind of filling 

required for embossed fabrics 36 45 

Weight of filling required for stop peg 

checks 44 

Weight of filling required per cut 34 44 

Weight or yards per pound 74 

Width in reed, from sley and width of 

cloth 63 70 

Yards per pound of a cloth containing 

different counts of yarns or patterns 

that are unequally reeded G7, G8 75 

Yards of cloth, per pound, from ounces 

per yard 65 74 

Yards of cloth per pound, from sley, pick, 

width and average counts 69 77 

Yards of cloth per ])ound, from sley, pick, 

width, warp and filling counts 70,71 77 

Yards of cloth per pound from a small 

piece of cloth 66 11 

Yearn, counts of, from any number of 

yards reeled or measured 1, 2 14 

Yarn calculations 11 

Yarn standard 11 

Yarn, weight bi, from counts and hanks.. 13 30 
Yarn, counts, length or weight of (for- 
mula "A") 30 

Yarn, length of, from counts and weight. 11 29 

Yarn, weight of, from counts and length. . 13 29 

Yarn, counts of, from length and weight. . 10 29 

Yarn, counts of, from weight and hanks.. 14 30 

Yarn and warp calculations, beam 31 

Yarn on a beam, counts of 16 31 

Yarn on a beam, weioht of 17 3i' 



144 Index 

Rule 

Number Page 

Yarn on a beam, length of 18 34 

Yarn, counts of, from weig-ht of a few 

inches -9 41 

Yarns, C£)st of, per yard and per cut 98,99 107 

Yarns, cost of, in a warp 100 108 

Yarns, diameters of 9^ 

Yarns, reeling 14 

Yarns, testing, for strength 93 

Yarns, testing, for counts by comparison 12 
Yarns, testing, for counts by weighing- 
short lengths 13 

Yarns, twists per inch in 88 

Yarns of various materials, systems of 

numbering QQ 



MILL CLOCKS 

AS WELL AS 

TOWER CLOCKS 

Have Been Howard Specialties for Nearly 

EIGHTY YEARS 

One Howard Tower Clock, with four large dials 
has been running for forty-five years at a total 
expense of $65.00. 

Watchman Clocks, Employees Time Recorders, 
Standard Regulators for Mill Offices. 

THE E. HOWARD CLOCK COMPANY 

Established 1843 
BOSTON NEW YORK CHICAGO 



C. E. RILEY SOUTHERN OFFICE 

President 814-815 Atlanta Trust Co. BIdg. 

ATLANTA, GA. 

H. & B. American 
Machine Co. 

PAWTUCKET, K. I. 

Cotton Machinery 

WE BUILD 

Hopper Bale Openers 
Vertical Openers 
Self Feeding Openers 
Automatic Self Feeders 
Breaker, Intermediate and 
Finisher Lappers 
Revolving Flat Cards 
Drawing Frames 
Slubbing, Intermediate 
Roving and Jack Frames 
Spinning Frames 
Twisters for Wet or Dry Work 



We are sole makers of the Hardman 

Duplex Carding- Device 

Tliis device can be ai>plie<ri to any make of card 



All parts of our machines are made by special 
tools and are exact duplicates. 

Send for descriptive circulars with list of users 



THE MACRODl 

FIBRE HEAD 
SPOOL 



^ The heads on this spool are made 
from a special fibre, which has no 
grain to it as has wood. These fibre 
heads will not warp, split, crack or 
break, neither will they rough up on 
the inside edge, and catch the yarn 
in spooling. 

f Being a stronger and more durable 
spool than the wooden head spool, it is 
a more economical spool to run. It 
will save you bo'th in actual spool 
breakage, and, what is far more im- 
portant, in the loss of yarn which al- 
ways accompanies such breakage. 

11 As the fibre heads are thinner than 
the wooden heads, this difference in 
thickness may be added to the tra- 
verse. For example— the ordinary 
wooden head spool with 5" traverse is 
6" over all. The Macrodi Fibre Head 
Spool 6" over all would have a SVs" 
traverse. This %" additional traverse 
will allow you to wind 10% more yarn 
on the spool, or you do not have to 
bulk the spool so big in order to carry 
the same yardage. 

For Samples and Quotivtions Address 

Macrodi Fibre Company 

AVOONSOCRET, R. I. 



SPINNERS OF YARN 

SHOULD LOOK UP THE ADVANTAGES 
OF 

The Richards -Hinds Light Running Roll for 
Spinning Frames 

MANUFACTURED BY 

The Metallic Drawing Roll Co. 

Over 1,500,000 Spindles Equipped to Date 



GUARANTEED CLAIMS 

No Cockley Yarn 

Better Spinning 

Extra Strength 

Less Waste 

Greater Production with Improved Product 

Reduced Cost of Spinning 

Less Change of Roi! Settings 

One-third of the First Cost Saved in Roller Bill 



For Prices Write to the 

EXECUTIVE OFFICE 

Front Street INDIAN ORCHARD, MASS. 



BOBBINS 



AND 



SPOOLS 



True Running Warp and 
Filling Bobbins. 

Closed Gauged Cardroom 
Bobbins. 



The Dana S. Courtney 

COMPANY 

CHICOPEE - MASS. 



A. B. CARTER, Greemille, S. C. 

SOUTHERN AGENT 



Power Transmission 
— Machinery =^ 



HYDRO EXTRACTORS 

FABRIC COATING MACHINES 

RUBBER CEMENT CHURNS 




HYDRO EXTRACTOR 



Established 1843 



AMERICIIIJ TOOL i MACHINE CO. 

Traile-Mark Registered U. S. Patent Office 

BOSTON 9 



Loom Harness 
and Reeds 

Cotton harness for all kinds of plain 
and fancy weaves in Cotton and Silk 
goods. 

Mail harness for Duek, Worsted, Silk 
and Woolen goods. 

Selvage harness, any depth np to 24 
inches, for weaving tape selvages. 

Eeeds for Cotton, Woolen, Silk and 
Duck. 

Slasher and striking combs. 

Warper and leice reeds. 

Beamer and dresser hacks. 

Ja c qn a r d h e d d 1 e s . 

Mending eyes and twine. 

EMMONS 

LOOM HARNESS COMPANY 

Lawrence, Mass. 



>^ 




^ 



Positively timed vomiting Kier 

Vvithout Vv>srE OF Steam 



MatjufactuREO Bt 



E D Jefferson 

IS9 High Street 
Boston Massachusetts 



-^ Vv/ATCHV/CRO e— 

SiMPLiciT Y- Result :— tcoNOMy 



u 




t 




Cloth Calculations 

require mathematical processes. 

SIMILAR PROCEDURE 
should disclose the inevitable 
advantasres of a 

SIMPLE AUTOMATIC LOOM 
in comparison with 
Those MORE ANCIENT 
COMPLEX 
and COSTLY. 

We build the NORDRAY 
LOOMS and ATTACHMENTS 

Hopedale Mfg. Co. 

MILFORD, MASS. 



rrmm. BSsgrTW'.:i?W!syi<iJiCTS»Ta^gi^?TO g^ 




RNiRG Rmm 

ISTER RIRGS 




\ i 




V 



TRAYELIER CIEAKERS 
TRAVEllER CUPS 



L?r.. 



d 



SFiiiiiiiic iSiN cmm 



WHEN IN NEED or 

Cylinder Fillets 
Doffer Fillets 
Stripper Fillets 
Burnisher Fillets 
Emery Fillets 

Top Flats Reclothed 

Cylinder and 

Doffer Fillets Rewound 

by Experts 

REMEMBE-R 

HOWARD BROS. MFG. CO. 

WORCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 



Greylock Mill Supply Company 



INCORPORATED 



Adams, Massachusetts 



Dealers in and Manufacturers of 

General Mill Supplies 

We make a specialty of Warp, 
Filling, Card Room Bobbins 
and Warper Spools. 

IVe Supply Everything That Runs on a 
Loom Except the Yarn 



fiMlOCR 



\MlilSiip|)l)'' 



"THE BASE OF SUPPLIES'' 

THEODORE R. PLUNKETT - - President and General Manager 
ROBERT E. NOBLE, Treasurer 




Our 

EPUTATION 

gained through nearly 
fifty years of Service 
to CALENDER ROLL 
users all over the 
United States and 
Canada is behind every 
roll we manufacture. 



B.F.Perkins&Son.i: 

HOIYOKE, MASS. 



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MEMORANDA 



MEMORANDA 



MEMORANDA 




KNOXALL FABRICS 
Pure Virgin Wool 

Roller Cloth Clearer Cloth 

Slasher Cloth 

and all other fabrics needed for 
mechanical operations 



EDWARD H. BEST « CO. 

INCORPORATED 

222-224 Purchase Street 
BOSTON 



ESTABLISHED 1815 



Arnold, Hoffman & Co. 

INCORPORATED 

PROVIDENCE, R. I. NEW YORK, N. Y. 

BOSTON, MASS, PHILADELPHIA, PA. 

CHARLOTTE, N. C. 

Importers and Manufacturers of 

Starches, Gums, Dextrines and Specialties for 

Sizing, Softening aid Finisliing Cotton 

Wooien and Worsted Fabrics. 



Special attention given by practical men to 
specialties for Sizing, Softening, Finish- 
ing and Weighting Cotton, Woolen and 
Worsted Fabrics combining the 
latest European and American 
methods. 

We believe there is no problem in Siring or 
Finishing that we cannot solve. 



Formulas for the best method of obtaining any 

DESIRED FINISH on any fabric 

cheerfully gWen. 



THE INDUSTRY AND 
ART OF WINDING 

Wlien Mr. J. R. Leeson originated 
the method of winding now known 
the world over as "Universal", 
windinf; machines were supplied by 
makers of other types of textile ma- 
chinery merely as adjvincts, not as 
capital necessities. 

Todaj' all progressive manufacturers 
recognize that slfill and capital in- 
vested in spinning, weaving, knit- 
ting and otlier processes of textile 
■manufacture cannot be efficiently or 
economically operated \mlcss supple- 
mented by accurate, dependable 
methods in winding. 

In order to meet this now generally 
appreciated irequircment the Uni- 
versal Winding Company, during the 
past third of a Century, has designed 
and built a system of machinery 
supplementary to all other operations 
in textile manufacture. 

UNIVERSAL WINDING COMPANY 

^EESONA. 



BOSTON 



